How To Cut a Chosera 1k?

Hey Fellas,

I'm having some trouble with my coticules lately. I notice after stropping I can get almost there, just passed violin hht on a good day. It's a gold dollar razor, so I know without any modification to it, I really need to buy some ebay specials.

So, here's the thing. I need a good bevel setter. I don't really have one. I got a little impatient with the Gold Dollar and went straight to the DMTC, and, while fast, isn't really my sort of thing.

So I'm set on buying a chosera 1k, but I hate the size. It's just me, I like to hand hone. My ideal size is a 130mm x 70mm.

Does anyone know of any vendors willing to cut it for me? If not, is it possible to cut the stone on my own? I don't have any tools...

Feedback appreciated!

If you haven't purchased one yet, I would try it as the whole shebang and try to get used to the size. If you hate it at that length, I think it will be a messy PITA to cut it down, although a decent saw should do it. However, any machine shop with a bandsaw can probably do it. How much they'll charge you is dependent on how long it takes them. I would still be hesitant to do that as someone with no knowledge of stones may rush it and butcher it... I think I remember seeing someone cutting a Norton 4/8 lengthwise, dunno if there was a tutorial for it....

I could be wrong, but I would imagine that would require a wet saw. I could see things ending rather poorly if you took a bandsaw to a hone.

Biggest waste of time I ever did

But yes I cut a full set of Nortons down using a hacksaw and 24 TPI blades

The 220/1k was actually pretty easy so I would hope that the Chosera might be for you

Sum Fun :p

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Originally Posted by Marshal

I could see things ending rather poorly if you took a bandsaw to a hone.

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Hey, that's what Harbor Freight is for!

I didn't think about going oldschool and using a handsaw. I guess I've been spoiled by access to power tools. Sounds less than fun, but entirely doable.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Hey, that's what Harbor Freight is for!

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I was more worried about the Chosera than the saw/blade lol. Last I checked bandsaw blades weren't too expensive to replace once they dulled. But if the heat buildup compromised the hone in some fashion it would be a bad day.

Well I was thinking of a metal cutting band-saw, which cuts much more slowly. You could always spray water at the cutting site for cooling and you also could stop occasionally to check for heat build up. Then again, I think a hacksaw would be a better way to go.

Realistically though, the larger real estate of the full size hone is advantageous for bevel setting and I occasionally do that while holding the hone in my hand, so it can be done.

Carbide coated hacksaw blade under running water works fine. I have hand cut some pretty hard J-Nats with mine, the Chosera will be easy compared.
Something like that will work fine
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-41...+hacksaw+blade

However, in the grand scheme of things, cutting the stone should be moot. Starting with the hone in hand is adding another variable to honing. In my mind, it is like lapping a stone with the sandpaper in one hand and the stone in the other. I'm sure it's feasible, but not the easiest way to go about things...

I went back to your first post, and you mentioned a king 1k. That should be fine for bevel setting.... Or if you got the Norton 4/8, you can use the 4 to set bevels and shave off the 8k side pretty easy. Jumping into a coticule pool is not easy, yours may be a great one or a not so great one, especially if you're working of a possibly microchipped edge from a diamond plate. There's a bunch of information in the thread you started in January that will help you out and is still applicable.

Honing has a required learning curve, and it seems to me you're making it a little steeper than it has to be...

Actually there is one distinct advantage to honing with the hone in hand. It serves as a self-adjusting shock absorber allowing the hone to slightly rock to adjust to a slight mis-stroke.

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Actually there is one distinct advantage to honing with the hone in hand. It serves as a self-adjusting shock absorber allowing the hone to slightly rock to adjust to a slight mis-stroke.

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Touche', although still seems like a method I'd bungle in a heartbeat...

I hand hone a size 40 kiita jnat, my chosera too. You get used to the weight quickly if you hone a lot. I even hand hone with my 10" stones, it might look funny but I don't like single hand honing on the bench.

If i'm bench honing I always use my second hand as a guide. Either way gives a good edge, I just like the control you have with a stone in hand.

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Originally Posted by mainaman

Carbide coated hacksaw blade under running water works fine. I have hand cut some pretty hard J-Nats with mine, the Chosera will be easy compared.
Something like that will work fine
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-41...+hacksaw+blade

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+1 they work very well and it will make short work of the Chosera.

I cut about an inch of the end of my Pro 1K using this in a hacksaw (https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-3...blade_p5668435) so that I would have a small dressing stone and so that it they both would fit in a norton blue plastic case for transporting.

It took all of 3 minutes, no coolant needed (though it did make a lot of green powder that sticks to everything like sh…, well you get the idea).

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Originally Posted by mainaman

Carbide coated hacksaw blade under running water works fine. I have hand cut some pretty hard J-Nats with mine, the Chosera will be easy compared.

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The carbide hacksaw worked for me cutting a hunk off a long coticule to have a slurry stone of the same material. It was a long slog with that particular stone though. Another time a guy was doing ceramic tile on a neighbor's condo and had a water saw set up on the lawn. I brought a 3" piece of coticule to him and asked him to cut it into thirds. Slick as a whistle I had 3 slurry stones in less than a minute.

Attachment 237896Attachment 237897

What you want is an angle grinder with a masonry cutting wheel on it. You should be able to pick both up cheap.

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http://straightrazorpalace.com/attac...a-1k-pink3.jpg

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How to cut a stone - well i think that answers the question - with the hand saw

A hand hacksaw will work with either a plain blade (takes a while and the blade will be quite dull when finished) or a carbide blade (much quicker and won't kill the blade).

A bandsaw will do the job too, but will definitely suffer some blade damage also.

In all cases where a toothed saw is used, it would be best to cut half way through from each side to prevent chipping when the saw breaks through.

A wet tile saw with a diamond blade will do the job even better and will cut through in about 10 seconds.

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

The carbide hacksaw worked for me cutting a hunk off a long coticule to have a slurry stone of the same material. It was a long slog with that particular stone though. Another time a guy was doing ceramic tile on a neighbor's condo and had a water saw set up on the lawn. I brought a 3" piece of coticule to him and asked him to cut it into thirds. Slick as a whistle I had 3 slurry stones in less than a minute.

Attachment 237896Attachment 237897

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Originally Posted by RusenBG

How to cut a stone - well i think that answers the question - with the hand saw

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I cut a long Thuringian once to get it into an Ardennes box plus I had a slurry for it after I was done & I used a hacksaw with a carbide blade.

Wow, Thank you Straight Razor Place!

My honing has improved in SPADES. I am getting awesome edges off my coticule now. No problems to report except for serious HAD. It's killing me lately.

Anyway... I did buy a Chosera 1k, finally. I'm probably gonna pick up the 600 to make quick work for bevels, unless someone tells me that's a terrible idea.

I did cut the 1k to a 140 x 70. Works like a charm.

Believe it or not it was the most annoying thing to cut ever! Gsixxgun was right, a big waste of time. I still like my version, but it was a serious PITA. I had to go to home depot and use one of the customer-use wood saws to finish the job, I need a new hack saw.

When I order the 600, I'll pick up a hacksaw and report back. Thanks again guys, I really got the hang of everything. It's dark before dawn.

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Originally Posted by J743

Believe it or not it was the most annoying thing to cut ever! Gsixxgun was right, a big waste of time. I still like my version, but it was a serious PITA. I had to go to home depot and use one of the customer-use wood saws to finish the job, I need a new hack saw.

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Did you use a carbide coated blade or regular one?

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Originally Posted by mainaman

Did you use a carbide coated blade or regular one?

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Not sure, took about 10-20 minutes and I was good to go. They had a wood sample I tested it on after and it cut like a hot knife through butta

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Originally Posted by bluesman7

"Tragedy of the Commons"

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Not sure what this means?

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Originally Posted by J743

Not sure, took about 10-20 minutes and I was good to go. They had a wood sample I tested it on after and it cut like a hot knife through butta

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I meant on your hack saw, did you use a carbide blade or regular?

I cut a bit of Hard stuff for knives etc. an used tile cutter-$20 with 2 blades, owned it for 6 years and still on 1st blade, they make quick work of hones and other nasty stuff like g10 and 11.

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Originally Posted by FAL

I cut a bit of Hard stuff for knives etc. an used tile cutter-$20 with 2 blades, owned it for 6 years and still on 1st blade, they make quick work of hones and other nasty stuff like g10 and 11.

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Do you just score the hone, like you would a tile, and then break in two along the cut?

I don't remember to be honest.

On some knife forums, people speak highly on carbide blades for cutting stones.

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Originally Posted by J743

I don't remember to be honest.

On some knife forums, people speak highly on carbide blades for cutting stones.

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If you use a regular blade, the stone will either round or completely abrade the teeth making that blade completely useless.

Indeed carbide coated blade works great as pointed that out in post #8 and later ones in the thread.

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Originally Posted by mainaman

If you use a regular blade, the stone will either round or completely abrade the teeth making that blade completely useless.

Indeed carbide coated blade works great as pointed that out in post #8 and later ones in the thread.

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Gotcha. I honestly didn't remember. You are right.

I went to the Home Depot yesterday to the lumber department where I used the saw. I asked to speak to the employee there — I explained that I used a saw to cut a hard stone a few days ago, that I was concerned I abused it, and was willing to make full financial restitution. He told me not to worry, that they actually routinely replace their saws regardless of whether I used it or not. I won't be using their stuff again, lesson learned. In the future I will pick up a carbide blade

I actually have a Harbour Freight 10 minutes away — I might pick up a dirt cheap small carbide blade to finish the huge Tomo I cut, as well as the incoming chosera 600.