Lapping Shaptons

Greetings from the UK. As ever, what a great resource is the SRP!

I have realised the error of my ways and after three years of battling with a beard, have rediscovered the pleasure of a real shave.

A question, if you will... I have three Shaptons, 4k, 8k and 16k. I use these periodically to sharpen kitchen knives (some beautiful Japanese works of art) but they were bought originally for my razors. I have noticed that they have worn so that they are not flat anymore. Can I use the 4k to lap the 8k and so on or will this just clog or make the surfaces worse? I realise that I should probably invest in a diamond lapping table but what can be done in the meantime?

I also have a 1k/3k combination (made in Japan - Naniwa) - can anybody comment on the quality/ use of this?

Thanks all.

If it's money no object just buy the Shapton lapping plate. If you're like the rest of us, take them to wet and dry paper on a tile - NB: use water. Use 220 grit, 400 and 600 to flatten and smooth them and all will be well. Old hands like to use a well worn DMT 325 but they're a bit aggressive straight out of the box.

Thanks Maladroit. Simples! Off to find a tile...

Shaptons tend to need to be refreshed more than they need to be flattened. You can refresh with sandpaper but a diamond plate certainly is a lot more convenient.

Am I correct in assuming that your Shaptons are of the glass series? That is what most folks go with.

I am not most folks, and thus I have a Shapton M5 12k ceramic. It is not nearly as fast as the glass series, but it is quite hard & does not require lapping even remotely as often as I do lap it. YMMV.

Because he said that he has the 16k, I would guess that he has the GlassStones.

Indeed, but I have never been afraid to ask a stupid question. :D

Thanks all. Yes indeed the glass series. Cost a fair amount as I recall but they do look the part and I can't fault the performance.

I refresh mine with my Swaty. Don't use it enough to lap it.

Diamond plates are always expensive in the UK. We don't get the same price deals as the USA.

DMT D8C plates 8x3 325grit are about £60-70.

Eze-lap 81M 1/4 inch plates 8x3 400 grit plates are about £50

DMD stones from Ebay 8inch 400/1000 grit are about £25 from Hong Kong. Not sure what these are like to use.

Trend do a few 8 inch stones similar in price to eze-lap.

Amtech do a range of 6 inch stones that can be had for <£10 each. I've used these and provided you check for flatness you can get them to work. Not all of them are perfect.

Wilko do a granite worktop saver for £10. It's flat enough to use with 1200 grit wet and dry or loose grit. I've got one of these and apart from a little wax and dye that they put on them for the polish they work really rather well. And the bigger size makes lapping a pleasure. I was able to grab on in Coventry Central Wilko off the shelf.

Thanks all and especially Iceni for the UK perspective. I've taken a large tile and various grades of wet and dry to them today. A good job. Pencil marked to show the overall high spots and I'm pleased with the new look and feel. Result!

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Originally Posted by Moggs

Thanks all and especially Iceni for the UK perspective. I've taken a large tile and various grades of wet and dry to them today. A good job. Pencil marked to show the overall high spots and I'm pleased with the new look and feel. Result!

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I use a DMT 95 diamond lap. I don't don't use the pencil method. I Take a dozen or so rounds under a running hose, hold it up to the sky a lay a machinists straight edge to it. If the load is cleaned off it and I can't see any light under the straight edge checking in several directions, that's flat. Nothing wrong with a light pencil mind you. Just my preference.


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Thanks all. So I have my Dovo honed up to a fine edge - passes the hair test (OK, with only a little persuasion)! I have to practice the technique again though as it was very much trial and error. As the edge was not bad, I started on 4k, moving on to 8k but struggled with 16k as it felt quite gritty, undoing the work that I had done with the 8. Should I be going to 16k? Seemed a lot better with running water rather than a wash now and again. I found a better result by applying a little pressure at the edge of the blade. I would imagine that stropping is of no benefit immediately after honing (?) Time to find Lynn's DVD again I think!

I would certainly strop it after honing. Some folks even strop in between each hone.

Other, more experienced members will chime in. But IMO, there is no reason to not strop (as long as you have proper stropping technique...). Just remember to rinse & dry the blade after each hone, in order to prevent contaminating the strop with grit particulates. I know that there are several guys that actually strop between grits during their honing progression.

Speaking of grit contamination; did you lap the 16k? And if so, did you thoroughly rinse it before taking a razor to it? This may account for the gritty (some describe as gravelly) feel of the hone. It would also explain why/if the stria got BIGGER when you moved from the 8k to the 16k.

Just my $0.02. I hope this was helpful!

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Originally Posted by ChopperDave

I would certainly strop it after honing. Some folks even strop in between each hone.

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Dang it, Dave! Beat me by mere seconds!!!:p

Crawler, yes I did lap the 16k as part of some overdue maintenance. You have me thinking - did I rinse enough? Now I know to strop after blade maintenance - thanks all.

Might just be the wet and dry left a rough finish in the 16K and it needs a knife on it just to smooth it out. Just grab an old knife and do a few circles on the flat of the blade all over the stone and see if it goes back to normal.