Printable View
The reddish 600 grit version that comes with the 1K.
What's it any good for?
Will it clean the swarf off a Shapton glass stone?
How about the Norton 4K/8K?
Will it smooth out a coticule without damaging the garnets like a diamond hone?
It's seems obvious that you wouldn't use it for slurry if the 600 grit particles break off and would get mixed in so I'm just trying to figure out where it goes in the honing routine.
Actually it works pretty well as a slurry stone on the 1k for the more aggressive bevel work, like to remove small chips etc. Rinse the stone well after uses and go on with the 1k with water only.Quote:
Originally Posted by kelbro
There's a few threads on the rub stone, some lovingly refer to it as "the little brown turd"
As Martin said it works well as a slurry stone, I've used it on the Chosera 1k and 5k superstone with good results. I also use it as a dress stone to refresh my naniwas when swarf builds up.
I've not used it on naturals.
It's primary use is to "condition" the stone. Cleaning the darkened surface of the stone after honing, de-glazing, if something like that happens, removing scratches after lapping with coarse diamond plates or sandpaper etc. It can be used on any stone for this purpose I suppose. As for slurry making, but most people find it to be inconsistent, not reliable enough for this purpose. I wonder if it came from failed attempts to make stones that ended up not up to their standards, and they ended up selling it as a conditioning stone. There are a few threads about this stone.
Wash thoroughly the stone after lapping, rub it with your palm too and you won't have any stray particles on it. As for slurry making, try it on knives and other tools, and if you are satisfied, then give it a try on your razors.
Until you get a small boulder that chipped off rolling around in your slurry. Happened only once for me out of a few tries. Was enough to just keep it as a surface cleaner.Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin103
My opinion, as little as it is worth, is that the "Brown Turd" is pretty much a 600 grit water stone. I have no idea what the grit is made of, but it's pretty loosely bound... much like traditional style Japanese water stones. (King is a commonly available brand of that type )
As such, the grit adds to the 1K Naniwa Green "ol sloppy" as some call it, making it abrade faster if left on the hone as a slurry. In a progression when trying to cut steel fast in order to remove chipped edges, I've personally found it an excellent addition to my stable of hones.
onimaru55 apparently has had a bad incident with an unusual coarse piece of grit in the cleaner stone, so perhaps it's not uber reliable as a slurry stone.... I'll keep trying until I run into the same issue... otherwise, I would consider it a one time thing... something that may never rear it's ugly head again, or perhaps it becomes common place, in which case I'll stop using it. Any hone/stone could have an errant grit in it..... It's the frequency that becomes a problem.
As for cleaning other hones, I see no reason why it would not work. Most of us use a diamond plate/hone for such, but the Naniwa cleaning stone would work just as well if you clean the stone you cleaned carefully. A diamond plate/hone will also "flatten" the hone, something the "brown turd" cannot do, so it's not a replacement for something to flatten your hones with. That said, I don't see why you could not use a flat surface with wet/dry paper for flattening your hones and the brown turd for cleaning the hones in between flattening. The key is to scrub your fine hones carefully with a nylon or some such scrub pad to remove any coarse grits left behind from the "turd".
The ONLY time I don't suggest a diamond plate for cleaning, is with Coticule hones.... they are a unique hone that does not play well with diamond plates for cleaning. For flattening, go ahead and use your diamond plate, just remember to use a small piece of coticule to clean and reveal the undamaged garnets in the hone. These small "Cotigura" stones, for cleaning or raising a slurry, are available from several sources.
Most other hones can be cleaned with a diamond plate..... just not the coticules.
Regards
Christian
I took great pleasure in throwing mine away.
For slurry I prefer a DMT plate.
That brown dog turd chipped my Shaptons..
My bad :)
Wow. Surprising. That stinks. It was the Shaptons that I wanted to avoid using the diamonds on. I just do a few laps on the 10K and 16K so they don't need flattening or slurrying as much as swarf cleaning. Maybe I'll just use an Arkie on the Shaptons. Don't have to worry about it flaking off.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
I have found the same. I use it as a slurry stone on a Chosera 1k when setting the first bevel on a newly made razor. During this coarse work I am not worried about running into 'boulders' as the edge is just being roughed in at this point. I often use it to clean my higher grit stones followed by a rinse and a squeegee and have never experienced any problem with contamination that I know of.Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptain_zero
It pulls off the edges and corners... I bought the Shapton lapping plate but I don't like using it because it cost so much, go figure..Quote:
Originally Posted by kelbro
I would buy an Atoma 1200 if I was you.. worth every penny....
How does the Norton prep stone compare?
I like mine. I don't find it useful for slurry, I've tried on the Naniwa Chosera 600 since they're the same grit and didn't feel like it did much. I think it's basically a piece of King 600 grit. Many manufacturers make that brick red absorbent stone.
I use mine on my Shaptons no problem, but the brown biscuit must be soaked first, otherwise it will stick and yes, gouge your Shaptons. After soaking a few minites, it works great.
Cheers, Steve
Thanks for all of the feedback. Soaked it and used it to clean up the Chosera 1K and Norton 4K/8K. Quick and clean. Used it on the SG 10K and 16K. Quick and clean. I like it.