Hello.
Is anybody recently use a Cretan honing stone? If yes what are the results.
Thanks.
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Hello.
Is anybody recently use a Cretan honing stone? If yes what are the results.
Thanks.
Woops! I thought this was referring to a Neanterthal style of honing wherein the spine is ground down altering the blade bevel and causing a change of blade geometry.
I assume you are talking about this one?
I found that it is a decent bevel setter, not too fast (which is a good thing in my book) and if you go through a full dilution, you can get a mildly refined edge. Not what I would classify as a comfortable shaving edge, but a good start.
I don't know about the consistency of these stones though, as I've only ever tried one, which seems to wear unevenly at that. Still, a decent stone for establishing a bevel.
I know there are similar stones which have been somehow treated (baked, I think) with olive oil, which are supposed to be finer, but I have no experience with those.
Attachment 253944
A good evening to all of you.
This is my Cretan blue hone gift from my son.
I lap it today with dray sand paper the progress was 100, 230, 400, and 600.
The question is the following.
I use a GD with a polish age up to 12K.
And after I tray on the stone only with water to see the scratch marks. Not even one.
I deed something wrong or this means that the stone only with water is higher than 12K??
Looking forward for comets.
Hello! That looks like a Cretan white, or grey, not blue. Maybe the flash from the camera is giving me a false impression. Anyway the point is the hardness and not the color. The harder they are, the finer they get.. but I'd say, never so fine that they leave no scratch marks at all.
Judging purely by the color, that stone is supposed to be a mid-range stone for razors, much lower than 12K. However, as it is a natural stone, there is no way to tell what grit it is.
Here are some of mine:
https://instagram.com/p/-puqOWxqhb/
And some more (wet):
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...eb4e11aa55.jpg
Dry:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...df1bbb37b1.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...c7f8599a87.jpg
Blue (black) dry.. Hard stone, that's the point. It is darker in person than in the photo:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...bc5643e0c4.jpg
Finally found the pic I was looking for:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2017...bb9dad33db.jpg
Here you have the hardest (blue/black) that may be a razor finisher and then there are the two soft ones. The one in the middle is a hybrid, you see how it has a bit of the blue vein in there. Those two stones (middle and right) look the most like your stone and I would expect them to be similar in performance, too.
You might try slightly increasing the pressure, or making very light slurry on your stone. I am pretty sure you will see some scratches. On slurry, this stone gives a hazy finish. Diluting that slurry to water will bring the finish more to mirror-like, but the scratches will be (should be) visible.
Thanks for the quick reply. The Cretan blue is just then name of the stone and not the color of the stone. When I was lapping the stone it felt very hard. With what you make slurry.??Quote:
Originally Posted by Srdjan
Sure, let's forget about the color. None of the white ones I've seen are actually completely white, but pale grey, sometimes with a light blue shade.. Can you somehow show us the water absorption? Maybe wet the stone and take a photo 2-3-4 seconds later. It is important to figure out the hardness, in order to tell what the stone should do.
Otherwise, when you want to make slurry on a Cretan, because it is porous and absorbs water quite fast (at least the softer ones do), you might soak it for 5-10 minutes. It helps a little (@Vasilis would probably disagree). Making slurry works well with a diamond plate (I use either a 1K, or a worn Atoma 400), or if you have a piece of the same Cretan, provided it is sanded to 400-600, as you described. If it's highly polished, it will be very difficult to make slurry.
Cretans are best naturals for bevell seting and midle work up to 7 - 8 k levell , for natural stones
The g=hardness depends from what the stone is soaled - watter or oil = Once the oil gets into the stone it hardens it and gave it entirely other feel or capabilyties .
For me they are best for bevell setting with slurry and midle work with dilution and plain watter .
They are best stones for knifes They gave very nice sharpness of the blade , and agressive cutting , fine cerated edge .
Absolutely mirror finish on plain watter adorable kasumi haze on slurry .
Very good stones .
Of what you righting I understand you have this stone. With what you make slurry.
If I understand correct you are from Bulgaria, were you are living, because I’m in Bulgaria to and if it’s convenient for both of us we can meet and see my stone and help me out with my problems.
Regards vasilis
I live in Plovdiv - second big city in Bulgaria .No problem to see .
You have to make slurry when is dry , with something . Maybe a fine sandpaper or diamond plate .
Ir a piece of hard stone .After you add watter and hone . Cretans must be lapped , cut or raise slurry , when dry .When adding watter they became harder and with diffent capabilitys
