Sealing JNATs? Whaddya mean by 'laquer'?

Correct - I was hospitalized when I handled a bow that had urushi that wasn't fully cured. Not pleasant at all.

Urushi is usually used for artwork in Japan. it's use is a highly developed art especially when it is colored.

I use clear acrylic spray paint... I like to see the edges.

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Has anybody around here used urushi to seal their stones? And if so, which kind? There seem to be several grades of urushi used at different points of the process when making lacquerware but I don't know if that translates to sealing stones...

I have used true urushi on a few stones with good results but it is difficult to use and toxic almost beyond belief. First you need a curing cabinet to keep the temperature around 80 to 90 degrees, and a water source to keep the constant humidity at 75%. It is best to brush on very thin coats and you will need about 2 to 4 days per coat to cure and about five coats for a decent finish. If you coats are too thick they will take much longer to cure. Careful handling the urushi is important and if you are careless you can end up with an intense rash that lasts for up to 3 weeks.

The Chinese urushi is cheaper at about $200 per 100 grams, it is dark brown and will cure and leave a black finish. The Japanese usushi is more highly refined and can be even clear if filtered enough. Very expensive, I can check but probably at about $400 to $600 per 100 grams (think larger toothpaste tube). These refined urushi can be colored with dry pigment or purchased colored. The most beautiful finishes are done with the super grades urushi that are clear and you apply a colored undercoat to the article, this technique gives a deep rich transparent colors that no other products can match.

Alex

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alx

I have used true urushi on a few stones with good results but it is difficult to use and toxic almost beyond belief. First you need a curing cabinet to keep the temperature around 80 to 90 degrees, and a water source to keep the constant humidity at 75%. It is best to brush on very thin coats and you will need about 2 to 4 days per coat to cure and about five coats for a decent finish. If you coats are too thick they will take much longer to cure. Careful handling the urushi is important and if you are careless you can end up with an intense rash that lasts for up to 3 weeks.

The Chinese urushi is cheaper at about $200 per 100 grams, it is dark brown and will cure and leave a black finish. The Japanese usushi is more highly refined and can be even clear if filtered enough. Very expensive, I can check but probably at about $400 to $600 per 100 grams (think larger toothpaste tube). These refined urushi can be colored with dry pigment or purchased colored. The most beautiful finishes are done with the super grades urushi that are clear and you apply a colored undercoat to the article, this technique gives a deep rich transparent colors that no other products can match.

Alex

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Do you know of any pictures of this? Sounds quite intriguing.

I was speaking just 2 months back with a lady from Japan, and I told her I have a bit of her home with me in my travel bag. I showed it to her, and she asked what the coating was on the back and sides. I explained that its a lacquer used to seal the stone. Her eyes went wide as she knew exactly what it was, and she started telling me all about the process of collecting the laquer, and how the people that used to collect it were typically not very long lived. I knew the stuff was bad news, but I had no clue it was THAT bad!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alx

I have used true urushi on a few stones with good results but it is difficult to use and toxic almost beyond belief. First you need a curing cabinet to keep the temperature around 80 to 90 degrees, and a water source to keep the constant humidity at 75%. It is best to brush on very thin coats and you will need about 2 to 4 days per coat to cure and about five coats for a decent finish. If you coats are too thick they will take much longer to cure. Careful handling the urushi is important and if you are careless you can end up with an intense rash that lasts for up to 3 weeks.

The Chinese urushi is cheaper at about $200 per 100 grams, it is dark brown and will cure and leave a black finish. The Japanese usushi is more highly refined and can be even clear if filtered enough. Very expensive, I can check but probably at about $400 to $600 per 100 grams (think larger toothpaste tube). These refined urushi can be colored with dry pigment or purchased colored. The most beautiful finishes are done with the super grades urushi that are clear and you apply a colored undercoat to the article, this technique gives a deep rich transparent colors that no other products can match.

Alex

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This sounds extreme even for this site....:shrug:

I sealed my Natural Water Stones using ordinary furniture shellac. Its held up extremely well against the demands placed upon it.

AOTO NAKATO; AO (Blue) TO (Whetstone) NAKATO (Medium Grit) 2000 - 3000grt. http://www.tomonagura.com/jnats/japa...-glossary.html

Before shellac application;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...psyisezobf.jpg

After shellac application;

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9vioune0.jpg

http://i1009.photobucket.com/albums/...psz0bpsihk.jpg

StewieS.

Oil based undercoat works well on hones..