You can set a bevel on a 4k, but most guys are using a 1k (unless you buy new from the factory or similar).
The two you have picked are solid hones. Any particular reason for the 10k instead of the 12k? (I'm just curious)
Printable View
You can set a bevel on a 4k, but most guys are using a 1k (unless you buy new from the factory or similar).
The two you have picked are solid hones. Any particular reason for the 10k instead of the 12k? (I'm just curious)
Lack of knowledge mostly. Seemed like the next step from 8k but that's why I asked about the 12k figured if I could skip the 10k and go to 12k might be happier with the final product.
To be totally honest, I didn't read the end of that line. And this is what I get... I asked a dumb question.
You can go from the 8k to the 12k. You can also shave very comfortably off the 8k. Personally, I'd say don't go past the 8k until you're really happy with those shaves. Then play with a finisher.
Awesome, I'll look for a good 1k as well then, any recommendations let me know
I love my Chosera 1k, but that may be expensive and/or overkill if you're not doing resto bevel setting. The SS1k is good, as is the Norton. I used a King 1k for a while and liked that, too.
Why do they have a 10k if you can jump to 12, my assumption is other people are coming from different grits and that would be safer then a 12k for them.
They make, among other things, 1k, 2k, 3k, 5k, 8k, 10k, 12k in the SS line. Then there's the Chosera line. Maybe others I don't know about. Different people want different things. Not everyone in honing razors.
I'd say skip the 10k and go with the 12k naniwa superstone, or whatever they named it this year. As Dylan said, get good shaves at the 8k level or you may be moving to the 12k prematurely.
The naniwa chosera 1k really is that much better of a bevel setter. If you have the extra $ it is worth it IMHO.
The King 1K - 6K hone is a good hone to start with start with. I just got a Shapton Pro 1K bevel setter I really like & for a finisher my 16K Shapton Glass is hard to beat.
Just my 3 cents worth! LOL
Slawman
Another excellent option for a bevel setter is the Naniwa Traditional 1k. It is quite economical and works very well. I would recommend it over the Specialty 1k. It is not as good as the Pro 1k but it is pretty darn close and is less than half the price, if I remember right.
You can follow the 8k with a 12k just fine. Skip the 10k.
Such a big range on price of the 1000k, see a norton for like 35, what can a better stone like the chosera 1000k do?
The Chosera 1k feels really smooth, cuts pretty quickly, and is a "gentle" stone. It doesn't wear much.
The SS 1k is also smooth and gentle, but doesn't cut as quickly. I remember mine wearing pretty quickly by comparison.
The Norton 1k is pretty gritty, and I'd say cuts a bit rougher. I remember mine being a slow cutter. Don't remember about how it wears.
The King 1k is pretty smooth and rather gentle. I think mine was faster than my Norton. It wore faster than than the Norton, but slower than the SS I'd say.
Do bear in mind I haven't used the SS, King, or Norton 1k in years, so my memory may be a bit off.
Are you getting really good shaves yet? Might want to learn one thing well them
N move on,, but if you must really all you need is a 12k to start and learn to maintain your edges, if done properly you may never need to see a lower stone. I gave razors that have a hundred or so shaves with nothing but 2-4 laps on a 12k once in a while and stropping, to be honest if all you do that s shave I St see how all these guys are honing all the time unless they have some messed up edges, once their honed right it last until you really do something silly. After you have mastered the 12k you will have a great understanding of what your edge should be then take on something really bad. But to each his own, I got a lot of money in hones and I never have to use them, after sending them out to be honed they don't need it anymore. Work your way backwards, 1st the 12k. Then a decent 3/8 combo, then a good bevel setter. Tc
Is it smart to get one of the stone holders, are they pretty universal amoung all stones?
Yes. Tc
It really depends on how much you plan on using your 1k. The Norton works, but it is annoyingly thirsty. No matter how deeply you have it submerged, it remains thirsty. While you are honing you constantly have to add water to it. It works, but I don't like it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumberjack55
The Chosera 1k, now the Professional 1k, cuts great, does not load up, and is not thirsty. Among the bevel setters I and others have used, it is universally considered to be the best. Now, you do not necessarily need the best if you are not going to use it very often. The Naniwa Traditional 1k and the Arashiyama 1k both work great, nearly as well as the Professional 1k, for half the price.
Add a King 1k and switch the 10k to a 12k super stone and you are set for life…
“what can a better stone like the Chosera 1000k do?”
Good questions, pretty much, just feel smoother. The finish is pretty much the same and really does not matter, because in a few minutes, you will remove the finish on the next stone in the progression. All 1k’s do the same thing, and a $20 king will leave the same finish as a $80 Chosera.
You, have to remember, none of these stones are created or produced for razor honing, we make up a very small part of the market. We just make do with a very small percentage that work for razor honing
"Is it smart to get one of the stone holders, are they pretty universal among all stones?"
Not really, for years I honed on a 3X10 piece of pine with a piece of rubber drawer liner under the board and between the board and stone.
They lift the stone off the workspace, to give your hands some clearance. I use a Steelex stone holder but, just rest the stone on the holder, and never tighten the rubber mounts to the stone.
If synthetic stones are your choice. You want repeatable exceptional edges, then equip yourself with a progression you won't need to change for the foreseeable future try this: Naniwa Chosera 1k, the Naniwa superstones 3k, 5k, 8k, then jump straight to a Suehiro Gokumyo 20k. It does work, and of course you must have a quality 8k edge before going any further. Some wish to go to a 12k Naniwa before the 20k, but INMHO you don't need the 12k and the20k. This progression works. If for some reason you feel you must have a12k then so be it, but I don't think it's a good spend.
because the hones aren't only for razors. depending on what is being honed a different grit might be more suitable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumberjack55
Ok now I feel like I've heard some on how you have to prep new hones before your first time use. It comes with some crap on it you have to scrub away. I can't seem to pull up any information on it, can anyone shed some light on this for me?
Draw a pencil grid on the hone, kind of like when you were a kid and played tic-tac-toe. Take a 325 grit 8x3" diamond plate, like the DMT D8C, or Atoma 400 (better but more $) and under the tap, or in a bucket of water rub the honing surface until the pencil grid is gone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumberjack55
I like the Norton 4/8 better than the superstones, or whatever, of equivalent grit because they stay flat, and aren't affected by atmospheric changes, temperature, humidity. Only honing necessitates lapping/flattening on the nortons, while the other synthetics are always varying ....... IME ......... YMMV
Jeez, I need to buy a hone in order to use my other hones?! Sounds like it just evens out the surface of the hone you get.
You do not have to buy a diamond plate. As long as you have a flat surface you can use w/d sandpaper. The diamond plate simply more convenient, but it really comes down to a matter of how frequently you will be needing to lap or refresh the hones' surfaces.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumberjack55
I used 3M professional 320 grit sandpaper for awhile. Works well and lasts a good amount of time. Be sure to go high grit to low if using multiple stones on one sheet. It will lap them fast. EDIT: BE SURE TO RINSE THE STONE AND RUB WITH YOUR HAND UNDER RUNNIN WATER. This will remove any stray grit from the sand paperQuote:
Originally Posted by Lumberjack55
Ifor a quick refresh, I use the DMT6C. It is 2" x 6", but works well with a figure 8 pattern. Les surface area or aignificant abuse has worn it fast.
The first lapping accomplishes 2 goals. 1) the stones never come flat. 2) there is a significant amount of excess resin on the outer surface. The first lapping gets you down to the usable grit. This is only my experience with the naniwas.
Don't bother with a naniwa ss 1k. I hate it and abuse it like I stole it. I have the 3k and love it, particularly if you are only working out chips 3/4 of the bevel width or less. I have heard good things about the 2k
So you don't have to just do this the first time, doesn't sound like you have to do it every time you start, so how often and how do you know when?
I usually do a few laps withe the dmt before honing. This has kept them very flat for the better part of a year. I checked my 3k a few weeks ago, and I have used it quite a bit.
The higher grit the stone, the less laps you do, which will allow longer stretches between full lapping
IME with norton 4/8 you don't have to do it every time. Only when you've honed enough to begin dishing. With every other synthetic hone I've used I have to start with lapping if I'm going to have a flat hone. That is Shapton, Naniwa superstone and Chosera, the Suehiro 20k. All of them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lumberjack55
You can use a straight edge, hold it up to a light source, or just draw a pencil grid and hit it a couple of licks on the diamond plate, or whatever. If it is flat the grid will come right off.
Eventually you'll know your hones, and know whether you have to start the process with lapping or not. Just part of the trip.
First lapping is probably the worst. If you get the Norton stones your 4k will come feeling like a concrete brick. You basically have to lap that flat, then get down to the good ceramic feeling material about 1/16 to 1/8 inch below the surface.
You can use wet/dry. It's not something you need to do every single use, I haven't lapped mine but once since I got them, and that was mostly to get Naniwa rubbing stone contaminate off my 4k from an experiment.
Some folks give em a quick 3 to 10 passes every time they pull them out. Some do it when they notice the hone isn't cutting as fast as it should. I tend to do it once the surface starts to turn black from swarf. As with most things you can sort of tailor it to your liking and how you want your stones to perform.