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I am building my first razor with a Gold Dollar blade blank and off the shelf plastic scales. Don't say it...Yes...I know. But I really want the experience before I tackle more advanced projects.
My question is simple-- I need a stone that can remove some serious metal to set a good bevel on the GD blade I don't want to use my nice 1K Naniwa stone...I am looking at either a Chosera or King stone. Certainly the King is less expensive. Any comments? Ideas?
I started out with the k 1000. If it was the only stone that I had to choose from, I probably would have left the hobby. Go with the Chosera.
If all you want is serious metal removal get a diamond plate and then go to your naniwa 1k. Having both would be redundant and not advised for what you're looking for.
The Chosera is the standard by which all other bevel setters are judged; to me, it feels much smoother than my Norton 1k, is easier to use, and gives better results. If you build a slurry on it with the included rubbing stone, it will remove all the metal you want (and probably too much if you're not careful!).
You won't regret getting one, and you could resell it easily if you change your mind. There's a reason you hardly ever see them for sale on the secondary market.
After getting into the Choser I have barely touched my 1k Super Stone. I tend to agree with others though that you might be better off getting a diamond plate if you don't already have one.
Yea, seriously a 400/1k diamond plate from Chef’s Knives to Go, $35.
Then any 1k will smooth it out. I think the King with slurry is more aggressive than a Chosera.
But as said you will most probably need to remove some steel. Once you get the geometry straightened out and the stabilizers ground down, you can make them shavers.
The scales are Crepe, and the blade design is clunky and poorly ground, but, it is the cheapest “Razor Kit”, on the market.
I think so too. I have had a king 1k for a very long time and find it faster then the new 1k pro I just got. I like the feel of the pro better and the size. That is about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
I had a couple of GD's a while back and until you get the stablizer and possibly the shoulder ground down some you will not get the bevel set at the heel of the blade as it won't lay flat on the hone. Once those problems are solved they do hone up to be fairly decent razors.
Since you already have a 1K hone I would opt for the diamond plate as mentioned above instead of another 1K hone, that way you will have something to remove metal and lap your hones.
Would a product like this be suitable? I find these products don't give grit size...just coarse, fine, extra fine, and extra extra fine.
https://www.fendrihan.ca/products/dm...extra-fine-d8e
The 325 grit DMT D8C is more commonly used.
https://www.fendrihan.ca/products/dm...8x3-coarse-d8c
I don't get the translation between microns/mesh and grit...can someone explain that for me? And why are diamond stones measured in microns instead of grit?
DMT, work fine, but the CKTG is 400 and 1k for half the price. They last just as long as the DMT and produce much the same finish, at the same grits.
The D8E is about 1200 grit, you will still need a 3-400 grit for heave stock removal and as said use to lap your stones.
That seems a bit pricy for the D8E, which can be found for about $50-60.
The CKTG plate, I believe is the I Wood dual plate and can often be found on Ebay for about the same $35 price if shipping is an issue.
MICRON (μ) is the letter "micron" in the Greek alphabet. As measuring unit it describes 1 thousandth of a millimeter (1 μ = 0.001 mm). A Micron row is added to each FEPA P, FEPA F, JIS und ANSI row for comparison.
MM Micro-mesh grit in comparison to other standards.
The grit sizes are defined by the number of lines per inch (25.4 mm) length of each sieve e.g. 150 lines per inch. Abrasives grit 150 will pass this sieve. This chart is a general overview only. We are not responsible for any errors.
Grit = Micron = Mesh Conversion Chart
Grit Mesh Micron
100,000 0- 0.5 1/4
60,000 0-1 1/2
14,000 0-2 1
13,000 1-2 1.5
9,000 2-3 2.5
8,000 2-4 3
5,000 2-6 4
4,500 4-6 5
2,800 5-10 7
1,800 6-12 9
1,400 8-20 14
1,200 10-20 15
1,050 12-25 18
800 20-30 25
600 20-40 30
500 30-40 35
325 40-50 45
285 50-60 55
240 60-80 70
225 80-100 90
160 100-120 110
100 120-160 150
Sorry chart did not paste well. Here are a couple of good charts
Gesswein , Dieter Schmid
I have a 1K Shapton Pro I got after using a King 1K for a few years. As has been said the King works best with slurry but still is fairly slow. I have used the Shapton Pro 1K. on 5 razors. It was faster, took less pressure & from looking at the King & Shapton edges with my loupe, I can say the Shapton edge looked better.
Slawman
I'm gonna say, since you own a 1K, why not try a Chosera 600. Love mine, it's a lot less aggressive than a diamond and is fast enough. You may find it very useful later when you need to do more subtle work, like removing larger chips or pitting from the edges. I'd say going from 600 Chosera to 1K requires less work, than going from a DMT325, or Atoma 400. This has been my experience, at least.
This is along the lines I was thinking. Rather than another 1K, why not step down to 4/6/800 grit since you know you'll want a LOT of material removed without a large time expenditure.Quote:
Originally Posted by Srdjan
Not that a CKTG diamond plate is a bad option, I'd kind of like to get one myself for exactly this type of thing. But I've got an 800 grit Super Stone and can attest that it works scary fast. Much faster than I anticipated an 800 grit stone to work. I almost botched bevel setting on a new to me razor and cost myself time fixing a mistake. Side bonus there isn't a ton of work needed to get the scratches out from that stone. I jumped up to my Norton 4K with relative ease. I think 400 or 600 to 1K would be a bit better though.
The reason to not go lower than 1K for me is that you have to get the 600 grit scratches out of the edge. A 1K stone will set the bevel well & unless you had a really messed up blade it would to be a wast of money going lower than 1K unless you wanted to sharpen knives & axe's.
Slawman
True, but when talking about setting the first proper bevel on a Gold Dollar I'd rather spend an extra 5-10 minutes on 600 grit scratches than several hours whittling away on a 1k. I'm sure we've all tried that once. :rofl2:
I use my DMT 325 for edge restorations. It really doesn't take much to get the scratches out with a 1k. I see it like this. Removing a chip on a 1k takes more work then removing the diamond scratches.
I do the exact same thing. I bought a Norton 220 for heavy restoration work, but the DMT cuts better and doesn't wear the tape nearly as fast.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeJay
And a 2k has to get out the 1k scratches.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slawman
And the 3k has to get out the 2k scratches.
And the 4k...
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And the 30k has to get out the 20k scratches, so that is the reason not to go lower than a 30k.
The point is that you have to start with the hone that most efficiently starts the task. Sometimes that is a 20 or 30k. Sometimes it's a 400.
The premise of the OP seems to be that honing a Gold Dollar will cause excessive hone wear, so he does not want to use his Naniwa 1K. I presume he is referring to a SuperStone or Specialty Stone. If a Gold Dollar razor had super hard steel, then removing a lot of steel might cause excessive wear. Gold Dollar blanks are not particularly hard, so you can remove metal rather easily. I have set the bevel on several Gold Dollar razors (both carbon and stainless steel) on my Naniwa 1K sharpening stone (3/4" thick new superstones). They were then finished on a series of Naniwa stones from 2K...12K.
A lot of that wear on the hone can be eliminated by taping the spines of the razors.
It won’t hurt the stone, and some Gold Dollars are very hard, really that’s the only good thing about them.
Just hone with the spine off the stone, using your finger or thumb as a guide to remove metal, once you are close, tape the spine with 2 layers and correct the bevel, spine on the plate.
This is not honing, this is repair work. A 3-400 diamond plate will get grunt work done fast and efficiently, a 1k plate saves a lot of 1k hone time.
Once repairs are completed, then hone on any 1k, you may have to remove a bit of the edge to get to solid steel, so keep an eye on it for chipping.