Printable View
Hi,
I'm planning on buying a set of Shapton Glass stones, the 1K, 4K and 8K for sure.
Then I'm still in doubt of getting the 16K and save up some money for a GS 20K, or skip the 16K and buy the GS 20K straight away.
Now what do the more experienced hones think about progressing up from a 8K to a 20K?
Also take note I'm a beginner and do have a coticule as well, getting "OK" results but want more consistency on my learning curve.
Thanks in advance for your kind input.
To the best of my knowledge, Shapton does not make a 20k, GlassStone or other. Do you mean the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k?
I have never done the specific jump from the GS 8k to the SG 20k, but I would assume it to be doable since it is not that much farther of a jump than it is to the GS 16k. Besides the SG 20k is a fairly fast cutter.
Hi Utopian,
sorry for the confusion but I indeed meant the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k. Shapton glass jumps from 16k to 30k but I've read those 30k's are not that impressive ...
Well, I think it depends on how they are used. By the way, just as an FYI, the SG 20k and the GS 30k have the same size of grit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikali
Okej, than it's a no brainer given the price difference between the two... The sg20 is about 100 euro cheaper.
Well, they are quite different hones. I just mentioned the grit size thing because I think it is interesting.
Well, generally the ideal is to halve the grit size (double the rating) when bouncing from one stone to the next. 8K to 20K (at least in theory) is only 2.5x, so it should be do-able. Even if it's akin to jumping to the SG 30K, that's only 3.5x and people often jump from 1 to 5K in the Naniwa series with success. In my estimation that rule is a bit more imperative at the low end because scratches are deeper and it will take far more time to work out 1K scratches with a 5K stone than 5K scratches with a 12K stone.
Seems like the GOK 20 is slightly mislabeled? Well, probably not since there's more to a hone than cutting material. Slightly off topic I suppose, but could you get as comfortable a shave off the GS 30 as folks report from the GOK 20?Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
I've found that for me at least it's easier to overcook an edge with the Shapton 30k than it is with the Suehiro 20k. Both are capable of very good edges but in my experience the Suehiro is more user friendly. I also don't ever have a problem going from 8k Shapton to Suehiro 20k.
I have the Shapton Glass series - 1k 2k 4K 8k 16k 30k. I enjoy using them all. Personally I find little difference in the shave between the 16k and the 30k. When using the 30k go very light with the strokes, both pressure and stroke count. Watch gssixgun (Glenn) video using the Shapton Glass series, especially on the 30k. Note especially his 3-2-1 finish with the 30k.
Yes, that jump can be made. The quality of the finish will depend on the quality of the 8k finish, and the quality of the 8k depends on those that precede it.
Forget the Coticule until you master honing on synthetics, it will only add a bunch of variables.
Find a local mentor and cut your learning curve. The SG20 is a fine stone but it’s not magic. The finish stone is not where you will have an issue.
You should have no problems going from an 8k to the Suehiro 20k. It's an easy stone to use, and the edges are exceptional. I personally go from a Naniwa superstone 10k to the SG 20k, have been doing it for more than two years. The edge is clinically sharp, some people's skin doesn't tolerate the acute nature of its finish, but for me it's a great stone and will last for many generations. It's a terrific touch up stone. I find 6 strokes on the SG revives a razor completely.
If I was you I would forgo the Shapton glass series and go Chosera 1/5/10k.
Much easier to use and more enjoyable.
Less issues too.
The Shaptons load up with swarf pretty quickly and are tricky to master imo.
Although probably the glass series might be cheaper..
I would add though that expense wise, the Chosera 10k is expensive at around $250, and the Suehiro Gok 20k also expensive at $270. IMHO you don't need both. (Prices are USD)
Well I was honestly basing myself on the video from Lyn, using a 1k, 4k, 8K and 16K shapton glass.
Price wise they are affordable, and later on I wanted to add a Suehiro 20K, if required. Could also use .5 micron paste, perhaps.
The Naniwa professionals are indeed also an option, I believe I can't go wrong with either shapton or Naniwa pro ... choices :-)
Order is out, it's gonna be a set of shapton's including the 16K.
They should do the trick for now and then gonna save some more for an ultimate finisher, either the Suehiro 20K, or perhaps a Jnat.
Still lots of learning to do first ;-)
As I am a Shapton Glass series user and proponent, you have chosen wisely. They will serve as the foundation for your honing future, as they do me. With such a solid foundation next you'll be wanting to branch off into natural finishers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikali
Don't forget the True Hard Arkansas, the Coticules, Zulu Greys, and host of others.
I know everyone says it can be done, but I prefer a 2k between the 1k and 4k.
Well luckily I ordered one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
I've read that the lower grits are the most important ones, especially bevel setting. So I figured the 2k would come in handy 😊
I have the 1/4/8/16. Sold the 30k.
I ruined many a bevels athletics.
Be careful with pressure and circles is my advise.
The 4k is the most important stone in the honing procedure to me personally.
P.S the Shapton pond is a really nice piece of kit.
Good to keep in mind about the 30K, what are you using nowadays as a finisher after the 16k? or do you go straight to shaving?Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
Suprised to read about the shapton pond, what is the added value? I did order the pro holder as I've heard it's quite heavy, and thus fun to work with, but the pond ?
The holder is a must, excellent quality and fits most stones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikali
The pond just keeps all the mess and water contained and works well with the holder. It's also heavy like the holder, pure quality.
The Shaptons don't see much light anymore unless I sharpen a knife or use the 16k before an Escher.
I prefer to use the Naniwa stones and I prefer a jnat progression over any synthetic.
Well I can imagine that jnats give a way better feel, but my guess would be you have a lot more experience than I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
And as far as I know the learning curve with synthetics is "better" as it is more consistent.
Most likely I will end up the way most do, switching over to natural stones again ... I do have a coticule already so I have a start hehe
My first year honing was a nightmare, looking back.
The Shaptons didn't make it easy for me either.
Understanding jnats helped me understand synthetics strangely enough.
Watch some GSSIXGUN videos, probably the most informative stuff out their..
I did receive that tip about GSSIXGUN also from a member of the Shaving Society (dutch forum) :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
Watched him using the shaptons already and was indeed quite intresting.
Strange to see he "soaked" the shaptons, but hey, I'll try both methods.
I'm prone to agree with this. I have a lot of hones, the 4K is the one that stays out on the table. The rest get pulled off the honing shelf as needed.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
The way I see it is we all know what to do with a 1/8/16k.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshal
Set the bevel.. Not a lot and then even less.
4k is an important bridge between 1&8.
Edited, I'm at work and busy.
I also watched gssixgun's naniwa honing progression. That was five years ago, and I still follow the same methods, I've added a few stones, like the Suehiro Gokumyo 20k, and just this year entered jnat Territory. I'd say, get the synthetics right first up, then follow your own path with naturals. I did no good with Coticules, but I've got two jnats and they add an extra dimension to honing. My only meaningful advice is that 'pressure kills edges.' Enjoy.
Thx for the pressure tip bobski