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Well they are popular for a simple reason they don't generate threads like this one. I never heard anyone post " help SG-20 break glass" just consistently decent edges without drama. Some folks just want this and as far as price, I have seen named veins of cotis comnand far more, eschers 2 times more and up. It really depends what your in to.
What did he say? was that on the PM? either that or I missed it.Quote:
Originally Posted by MedicineMan
I asked him to try this:Quote:
Originally Posted by lloydrm
Create a slurry on the coticule
Honing on it
Every once and a while keep the slurry wet, but not diluted.
When you feel the slurry stop cutting, dip your slurry stone into water and refresh more slurry on the old slurry
The edge will start to cut more and more.
Repeat this 5 or 6 times
Finish with a slurry but make sure it is wet,.
Test shave.
my theory is that the garnets don't "Break down" per say because they are very hard, but I think when they bang into each other during honing, their edges dull, causing the edge to be gentle but sorta dull as if their cutting ability diminishes, sometimes the edge is not quite there. By refreshing you can keep the garnets sharp.
I think Bart suggests a similar approach, but your reasoning behind is quite helpful. Many thanks.
I just started an experiment using a jnat to get the sharp edge and then I put the razor on a Coticule. I experiment is to try obtain the illusive sharp but comfortable edge. My first effort was to take a filly 13 1/4 hollow and I used a very fine jnat first followed by lather on an extra fine Old Rock coticule maybe 25 laps. I got a good close comfortable shave. My comfort level is defined by how my face feel when I use my alum block and then an aftershave splash. The jnat alone leaves my face sting about the same as my Naniwa 12k. The filly experiment left me with less sting. I have a fair amount of time on my hands so I try different things with my blades and stones to pass the time.
I think before someone plays with slurry on a coticule they should work on the final finish. Taking a 8k/12k edge razor doing water only laps and just seeing where that gets you. After they have very good idea of what it is like finishing then moving to slurry. I believe water only passes is usually enough to bring an edge back to life on most coticules. Although I have only used 4-5 different coticules with 2 I liked
Back in the old coticule.be days it was suggested to only use slurry as a restoration tool ...nothing else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Christian1
A lot of methods work on these hones but you gotta find which one on which hone.
Good post...and true. I often use a very fast cutting coti with slurry to quickly set bevels before a progression and then will finish with a very fine, hard coti on water only. I guess I must be stuck in the 'old coticule.be days'...Quote:
Originally Posted by Disburden
:rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfpack34
You know reading over this thread, I find myself sitting here right now honing a Frederick's celebrated smiler and enjoying the hell out of the feel of the honing process. I find sheffields and cotis have an almost symbiotic relationship. I just love the way the edge develops and the size I have a 6x 1.5 is just great held in hand doing rolling x strokes on a smiling blade. There is just something about Sheffield steel and these stones.
Ironically enough the best edge I put on a razor since I got this bout was on Sheffield steel. I was playing with Nick's suggestion and finished it with some water only X strokes; noticed a every so slight suction feel. Grabbed the strop went about 30 linen/100 leather laps and proceeded to have a blissful shave.
Thanks again guys!
Now I just have to resist the HAD (don't see that happening...I'm checking the classified and visiting AC's site daily!)
Be safe,
Jer