Am I ruining my JNAt by lapping it with a chosera 1k or even a Shapton 2K? Sorry if this has been asked. Ive searched.
Printable View
Am I ruining my JNAt by lapping it with a chosera 1k or even a Shapton 2K? Sorry if this has been asked. Ive searched.
In most cases a JNat is going to be much harder than those two hones, so it is much more likely that you actually are lapping them with the JNat.
Are you doing this because you don't have anything else to use for lapping?
You are not harming your JNat. The use of nagura on them is common and they usually are softer than the base stone. I'm just not sure you are accomplishing anything by doing it. Are you lapping this way for flattening, for surface prep, or for slurry production?
Hmmmm, that seems so obvious now that you made that point and my question almost seems silly. My stone is a very hard nakayama asagi. I WAS foing it for flattening. I use nagura for surface prep. Sounds like I need to go the wet/dry sand paper on glass route or a finer grit atoma or dmt. I’m doing this probably because of inexperience and just never really thinking about it or asking, which I finally did. Thank you for your response. Always something to learn.
Because it is hard, it will be really slow to go out of flat enough to matter. For that reason, sandpaper on glass would be fine for that one. Whether or not you want to invest in a diamond plate probably will depend on how many other toys you need to lap.
I apprecite your reaponse.
What grit sandpaper would you use to flatten a Jnat?
Use wet/dry sandpaper and anything from 180 to 1k grit will work just fine. Of course the lower grit will get it done faster.
I'm not a Jnat person. And know less than what Utopian has forgotten! But, I'd say go with the 180 like he said and get it damn near flat. Then start up the progression on grits to help knock out any scratches left by the courser grits.
JMHO and YMMV. Ha.
It has been a few days since this thread began, and you may have figured things out already. But to suggest that you can fully lap and flatten a hard Jnat with a 1k or 2k synthetic, if you haven't tried it, will be a struggle to overcome the suction that will develop as the stones begin to flatten each other, and chances are that one stone never really will flatten the other.
I would encourage you to buy a Atoma #600 diamond plate, this will easily and quickly flatten your Jnat and the Atoma plate itself will not dish or distort in the process the way your synthetic probably will. Rubbing two stones together will counteract against each other and any error will be translated to the second stone from the first misshapen stone. The errors might be minimized but there will be a lack of true flatness in the mateing.
If you have a Atoma diamond plate that is truly flat and a bit mellow from wear you can use the Atoma to flatten your Jnat everytime before you use it to hone a razor, in doing so you can create a useful slurry to kickstart your honing process with. On the other hand if you flatten your Jnat after you are done honing your razor and just flush the slurry from the flattening process down the drain you are wasteing a valuable abrasive product Keeping you stone flat is an important task, using the by-product, the slurry, can be very useful.
Alex
Alex
I have a heard that this slurry can reduce burr formation. Is that something you noticed?
Has burr formation been a problem for you? It's never been a consideration for me with razors.
Kind of sounds like you may have lapped one or two Jnats in ur time Alex:rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by alx
Jer
Thank you all for your responses and info. I was mainly concerned if I was ruining my JNAT at all. I'm just going to go ahead get an atoma and do things the right way. Alx you explanation of rubbing two stones together and errors being translated makes perfect sense and seems obvious now. Thanks for the knowledge.
Yes, I have found that a slurried Jnat can reduce a feather, false or in some cases a full blown burr. A burr in my book is a portion of the steel that folds or rolls up and away from the side (A) now touching the hone stone at the blades edge, and can plop back over to the other side when you flip the blade over to hone that opposite side (B). In tools they call is burr but in razors it usually does not progress to this extreme unless you are restoring a blade by breadknifing or heavy pressure on a blade in the bevel setting stage. The false edge or feather edge is the lessor brother of a burr, but the mechanics are the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by malaverdiere
I believe that some experienced users can avoid developing a burr edge, most likely by their sense of feel and their intention to not form a burr. I myself aim purposely to create this lessor false edge with my bevel (1k or 2k) to prove that both sides of my edge have truly met beyond the target apex with those last few strokes on side A and side B. With my bevel setting synthetic stone my aim is to slightly over lap the edge, making it weak or overcooked. Doing this I am now positive that just behind that false edge is a perfect apex of solid steel just waiting to be revealed with a more gentle and finer stone. With a slurried Jnat, the loose free agent slurry particles will pick away and sort of sneak up and eat away at the false edge, especially with edge leading strokes or with circular strokes and in doing so work the edge backwards to reveal the solid apex. The idea from here on out is knowing when to quit with each suceeding stone. Often this is usually sooner then you think.
Alex
http://www.thejapanstone.com/images/scratchlength.jpg
He Said:
Often this is usually sooner then you think.
I agree so much but just cant stop honing. Some day I will learn this, but for now, Hone Hone Hone... Dammit!
Thanks for the reply. I have lots of burr problems when sharpening knives.
But I don't want to derail the thread too much. Thanks for your input!