Sharpeing Stones - Knives

I have and currently use a Wicked Edge sharpening system for everything except razors. I find the process of freehand sharpening much more rewarding and enjoyable than sharpening with a guided system. Yes, the results I get from the Wicked Edge are hard to argue about but I am finding it more of a laborious process and enjoy it less each time I pull it out. (I hate to think what I've invested in that thing...)

That said, I am looking to purchase bench stones specifically for knives. A few pocket knives, super steels and the like, as well as the expected kitchen knives.

I'm not looking to go over 800 grit as I don't really see the benefit from use. What are the opinions on different brand/lines? Considering Naniwa Chosera (as I absolutely love my 1K), Suehiro, DMT plates, etc.

Let's hear the voice of experience(s).

Many thanks in advance!

I used to use dmts, atomas and chosera stones. It works. But it's slow. I used a belt sander now. And finish up on a leather 1x30 belt with some compound on it. The wife is
very rough on the kitchen knives so I find myself sharpening often due to abuse. But you have to live with them. Lol. There's tons of videos in YouTube showing the process. I will never sharpen another knife by hand. I don't see any advantage. Unless you have Japanese knives and are interested in contrast polishing in the layers of the steel.

stick with your dmt,s you may already have what you need,, a DMY 325 and a DMT 1000, or atoma is great too, and your right you don't need high grit for knives,,, that wicked edge provides all you ever need and I,m sure it doesn't go over 1000 either. I don't put my good equipment on belt sanders. period. maybe and ax or a shovel, but not knives I have a lot of money in and use all the time, same as my razors, I would not use power equipment to hone them.

your right the WE takes a few minutes to set up and get good at, but the results are top notch. I use the Diamond plates I suggested and I have long lasting edges that will skin a tomato. but you have the WE so I would tend to use it. if I had one I would, I have used them from friends and its a no brainer Tc

220 grit on a knife with a good deburring by hand or whatever is as much as you need for all purpose kitchen work imo. I think a little tooth in the edge is good. That stage cuts arm hair easily. Obviously you can go higher. And I've done mine by hand up to 5k chosera. The edge is polished for sure. But I don't think I got any longevity or other benefit for what I do here. Lower angle like 10 to 12 degrees increases an edges cutting. Which is what I typically do with my kitchen knives. But trying to reprofile a knife edge by hand is a tedious task. I even sharpen my edc knife to that. The only tool that gets the 22 degree is the cleaver.

It is agreed that the WE does a hell of a good job! Consistent, flawless polish, and sharp as hell! This edge finished with 0.5 micron diamond lapping film. Excessive, I know...

Apologies for the poor picture quality!

Attachment 298073

I just use a couple of BBWs on my pocket knives and it works like a charm

My kitchen knives get some quick strokes on either a BBW and/or Coticule and they cut mighty fine as well

They shave arm hair (which doesn't matter) and meats etc. very well (that does matter), so I never gave it much more thought


My EDC knives get a good stropping session after a honing session, they're mostly use on the farm and I use cheap Opinel inox Sandvik steel knives, which are as utilitarian as it can get, I dig it

I'm always fidgeting a bit with my free hand honing angles though

I use either a Suehiro stone, a DMT, or an Ark on my knives. I can polish any of the edges on my strops coated with diamond sprays to give it a mirror finish - but of course my Black Ark give a polished finish anyway.

For the kitchen, I prefer my Suehiro stones. For my EDC and hunting knives, my Arks. I leave my DMT's for fast bevel setting or garden tools mostly. They are a nice edge too, but I prefer the others.

Arks are great if you love honing. You can't "over-hone" with one.

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Originally Posted by Bill31521

220 grit on a knife with a good deburring by hand or whatever is as much as you need for all purpose kitchen work imo. I think a little tooth in the edge is good. That stage cuts arm hair easily. Obviously you can go higher. And I've done mine by hand up to 5k chosera. The edge is polished for sure. But I don't think I got any longevity or other benefit for what I do here. Lower angle like 10 to 12 degrees increases an edges cutting. Which is what I typically do with my kitchen knives. But trying to reprofile a knife edge by hand is a tedious task. I even sharpen my edc knife to that. The only tool that gets the 22 degree is the cleaver.

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I sharpen all knives at 18 degrees. **KISS**

I am just the opposite of the OP I am looking to get something like the WE or EP Apex to put on a knife edge as I just can’t seem to get repeatable results, I’m sure it has to do with me no doing it enough but I also honestly don’t find much reward in sharpening a knife compared to honing a razor, the razor honing seems more rewarding and yes I know this sounds crazy.

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Originally Posted by Jnatcat

I am just the opposite of the OP I am looking to get something like the WE or EP Apex to put on a knife edge as I just can’t seem to get repeatable results, I’m sure it has to do with me no doing it enough but I also honestly don’t find much reward in sharpening a knife compared to honing a razor, the razor honing seems more rewarding and yes I know this sounds crazy.

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I fully understand what your saying. I also struggle with consistency with a knife on a bench stone and I am in now way ready to abandon ship from the WE. I do, however find myself using a bench stone on a couple knives when I'm running through all of the kitchen knives on the WE because I enjoy the process more. I may continue to use the DMT coarse + Chosera 1k for knives as it does a great job. That said, I would like a bit toothier edge on kitchen knives and will probably pick up a Chosera 600 to play with.

I have the same issues with a knife on a stone, but in using a small folding DMT on my knives, I can be consistent by holding the knife steady in one hand and rubbing with the DMT using the other. Works for me!

I use the WE system and I frequently say that I've never spent better money. I can't understand why you would move AWAY from the WE system. Some may get good edges from stones. Grit is grit. But the WE system nails the angle and achieves consistency every single time. In the end, this can save the investment you made in knives by not screwing them up or grinding away at 20 degrees this time and 15 degrees the next. Or, getting the heel and middle sharp while the tip is still dull. I swear by it. As a guy that gives my knives heavy kitchen use, its been the best investment I've made. Each of my knives is always in tip top shape. If you already know how to sharpen well on stones, great. If you're not used to it or have a problem keeping a consistent angle, the WE is money well spent. But, arguably, I don't sharpen knives for fun. Results are the only thing that matter to me.

I get my initial burr on dmt then I move on to either a fine washita or a charnley forest. I wouldn't use either of the latter on those steels with the incredibly hard carbides though.

I don't have a system for honing knives,

I just use my BBW as I was told by my grandfather and keep the stone still and drag my razor over it, spine leading strokes at a 40° angle +-

I get nice solid edges that hold up well

today I honed one of my Opinels with Sandvik inox steel on a tiny BBW and it was shaving arm hairs easily; I followed it up by a Herold red and black pasted strop and regular leather strop, stropped at a 40° as well

I never used pastes before, so this was a first test, the damn thing is passing the HHT like nobody's business, color me impressed by these pastes.

I have a pile of stones and sharpen a ton of knives, both the ones I make for sale, plus my personal shop knives, pocket knives, kitchen knives and such.


my go to stones are a Norton crystalon coarse/fine with mineral oil for setting edges, and a dmt continuous diamond in 325 {labeled coarse} for a finisher.

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Originally Posted by OCDshaver

I use the WE system and I frequently say that I've never spent better money. I can't understand why you would move AWAY from the WE system. Some may get good edges from stones. Grit is grit. But the WE system nails the angle and achieves consistency every single time. In the end, this can save the investment you made in knives by not screwing them up or grinding away at 20 degrees this time and 15 degrees the next. Or, getting the heel and middle sharp while the tip is still dull. I swear by it. As a guy that gives my knives heavy kitchen use, its been the best investment I've made. Each of my knives is always in tip top shape. If you already know how to sharpen well on stones, great. If you're not used to it or have a problem keeping a consistent angle, the WE is money well spent. But, arguably, I don't sharpen knives for fun. Results are the only thing that matter to me.

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I hear what you are saying but... sometimes you cook with a recipe, other times you just have at it. Both ways can produce awesome. Sharpening with that system is like working in a lab. Working in a lab can be awesome, but it's not for everyone.

I'm a palm honer myself.

I have pretty much decided on getting the WE Pro Pack 1, this kit contains all the grits one would need to put an edge on a severely negelcted edge to just some touchups on the German steel we use in the kitchen. I wish i had the ability to consistantly put a repeatable edge on a knife but im not one of the chosen ones so sometimes its best to look at other options.

I may buy some beater blades to contiune to use on my 400/1200 diamond plates along with my Shapton stones just to work on improving my skill but i dont want to constantly grind on fine cutlery trying to gain skill.

I dont have as many hones as lots do but we all know that one can get by with a 1k and 8k barber hone to give us a decent usable edge but we all contiuned to buy stones from between the 1 and 8k to bridge that gap to save us time and we also including me went well above the 12k range to give us those truly hair popping edges, i mean really who needs a 30k edge to shave with and some of the JNATS i have cost the same or more than this WE system.

The WE is an awesome system that can put an incredibly sharp edge on a blade. The even better aspect is that is is repeatable. Put a blade back in the clamp in the same position, there is a gauge to ensure this, set your angle and BAM, touchup in short order. I do love the system from the results aspect but it does become a bit mechanical.

I will continue to be a hybrid and sharpen knives both using the WE and freehand. Better results from the WE but a more enjoyable experience from freehand. Maybe I will become proficient at freehand one day. We shall see...

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Originally Posted by Robini

The WE is an awesome system that can put an incredibly sharp edge on a blade. The even better aspect is that is is repeatable. Put a blade back in the clamp in the same position, there is a gauge to ensure this, set your angle and BAM, touchup in short order. I do love the system from the results aspect but it does become a bit mechanical.

I will continue to be a hybrid and sharpen knives both using the WE and freehand. Better results from the WE but a more enjoyable experience from freehand. Maybe I will become proficient at freehand one day. We shall see...

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Rich,

I totally agree with your hybrid view and will more than likely practice the same, it’s kinda like when I was learning how to hone razors, I repeatedly used edges from lots of ppl that were more experienced than me and then I would compare those edges to my own and then the chase was on to duplicate that edge so I figure if I get a really killer edge from a system like the Wicked Edge I can practice my freehand skills to chase that same mechanical edge, I’m sure it won’t be easy but then neither was honing when I first started.