A lot of good info from this guy . He deals with knives but it translates to razors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f4Qsu8LiX8
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A lot of good info from this guy . He deals with knives but it translates to razors.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8f4Qsu8LiX8
More stuff to try :D.
I currently clean and lap my Choseras with the Atoma 400 after honing; and use the brown Naniwa synthetic nagura to prep the stones before honing. Seems to work, all suggestions welcome!
Not really. The rust erasers are terrible. Coarse Shaptons need a conditioning stones, better use some very low grit small SiC stones that no one wants and are dirt cheap.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
If you are looking for an inexpensive "cleaning nagura" for the mid/finer range stones, buy a Rika 5000, cut it (very easy), enjoy. Works on anything, won't kill the stones.
If you need a "slurry nagura", get one of the smaller DMTs (600 or 1200) or Atomas (1200), work them on something hard to even the layer and you will never use something else.
He's fun to follow, but not now.
I just received the 2 rust erasers.
My thinking is that i want the finer of the two for my Gok 20 & Shapton 30k.
Lower grits i lap them clean.
Why are the rust erasers terrible?
Thanks
Too much variation in behavior from stone to stone and grit to grit. Requires a very good cleaning after with some stones. I've tried them and eventually gave up long before this video was made. I had these maybe as soon as they hit the market, can't even remember when I got the first ones. They are great for knives.
I also have the Lansky eraser that is also kinda terrible even for what it was made to do (Bar keepers is way better) and some other erasers. I would not recommend any for this.
I'll give them a bash tonight, see what happens and report back.
At the moment i clean those 2 high grit stones with Natural naguras.
Thanks
I keep old Scotch Brite sponges that we frequently change out from the Kitchen. My Bride is bacteria phobic, so we replace with a new sponge ever couple weeks.
I scrub the stones with the green scotch brite, it removes the swarf well with out removing stone, then a quick lap with a 600 plate and a rinse. Scotch Brite removes swarf well from stones that load up, like the Naniwia’s without removing a lot of stoneface.
I don’t use soaps on synthetic stones, for fear of a reaction, Bar Keepers works great on Diamond Plates scrub with a brass paint cleaning brush. Some stones are sensitive to soap, I once melted a hole in a Norton 8k with a drop of Dawn dish soap.
I got a hint from another member about using Magic Eraser sponges. Cleans nicely. But thats just to clean out any swarf that is sticking. I lap my stones enough that i dont have this issue much.
I like the Naniwa, dressing stone. ( brown turd ). Synthetic stones, only. Arks...dish soap, warm water, if real bad. Oil and a rag, if its light. 1k W/D paper, on my Thurigans
I just tried the rust erasers.
Gok 20 & Shapton Glass 30k loaded both of them with Vintage Sheffield Steel and then used the finer of the two erasers.
They worked very well for me . It has a rubber feel to it, cleaning both stones quickly and without removing much stone at all.
Maybe it is a case of each to their own ? First try and it performed better than i thought it would. See how it pans out over time..
I would think using small nagura cleaning stones would tend to cause the main stone to get dished so that’s why I use an Atoma plate
If you don't change the stones and rarely use them, maybe they will perform the same on the long run. I can't tell as I never used them with one type of stone only and they tend to disintegrate over time and get debris on some stones. Other stuff never gave me this much trouble and perform better overall.Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
I rarely use synthetics so they won't see much action. I did notice tiny debris as you mentioned so I made sure I rinsed them well.
Also I have a bunch of knife sharpening hones which I don't really care about so I'll use the coarse eraser for those.
Since that Naniwa dressing stone took a chunk out of my Shapton glass 16k I stopped cleaning them and just lapped them but the high grit hones do need a clean and not a lap so often. This seems to be a good option so far.
Cheers
Joseph
I run a Naniwa progression and have a Naniwa cleaning stone.
I will most likely continue to follow Glens way and it’s the way I was taught, use a Atoma plate (#400 ) before using each stone and just do a light figure 8 pattern and leave a light slurry on each stone, the slurry helps and lapping each time keeps the stones flat........... Been doing this for over 3 years and have yet to wear out a stone
When I first started honing and restoring edges, I didn’t want to invest too much in stones (that has changed owing to a short but intense bout of HAD) and bought a set of 3 DMT credit card sized diamond hones when they were on sale on Amazon. They worked quite well as slurry stones until I was able to get hold of a decent BBW/coticule combo slurry stone to go with the combo coti I had inherited.
The cards are an inconvenient size for full size stones, but work great to clean or raise a slurry on my 6 x 1.5 inch coti.
I still carry those cards in my go bag for camping. They touch up the edge of a knife or a hatchet very nicely.
Depends on the stone, and the nagura, and how you use it. It goes without saying if you focus in an area you're going to dish the hone. If we're talking about something like my PHIG, an Arkansas stone, or the Shapton Kuromaku set I've got? You can rub those all day with whatever you want, chances are you'll wear the nagura more than you will the base stone. And if you follow up with a flattening every now and then the stone's will be flat enough to do what it needs to.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jnatcat
On the other hand something softer like my Norton hones, or even Welsh slate, I'm a lot more careful with what I use on those. I use a Naniwa rubbing stone to wipe swarf off the Nortons. One pass up and back keeps them clean enough for my liking without eating a ton of stone away or causing any detrimental dishing. The Welsh slates have been polished on one side, the other side I only use the accompanying slate rubbing stones on. The polished side never gets touched with anything but a razor aside from scrubbing clean with finger tips and running water. So far I haven't dished the other side enough to feel the need to flatten any of them again. Basically if you're aware of the potential to cause dishing and take a few easy steps to avoid it it's not a big problem.
As for the video/creator I do watch Burrfection from time to time. Like anything else there are bits and pieces that work, and things that don't necessarily apply because most of my hones are ceramic or hard naturals, it's a slightly different wheel house.