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Thread: Arkansas

  1. #41
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    WD40 will remove tape residue, and a paper towel and a microfiber will clean and dry the razor.

    If you are not at the finish stage, you can strop on tape as long as it has not cut through. I often strop prior to the finish laps, especially if I have jointed the edge.

    Micro bevels work well with Arks. Honing with oil can loosen tape, Ballistol or Smith’s do not have that problem, which is one of the reasons I use them. 3-4 drops on a wet stone. Put your Ballistol or Smith’s in a one- or two-ounce bottle that can deliver a single drop at a time.

    If you leave oil on a stone it will not hurt it, but it can go rancid and smell.
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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    WD40 will remove tape residue, and a paper towel and a microfiber will clean and dry the razor.

    If you are not at the finish stage, you can strop on tape as long as it has not cut through. I often strop prior to the finish laps, especially if I have jointed the edge.

    Micro bevels work well with Arks. Honing with oil can loosen tape, Ballistol or Smith’s do not have that problem, which is one of the reasons I use them. 3-4 drops on a wet stone. Put your Ballistol or Smith’s in a one- or two-ounce bottle that can deliver a single drop at a time.

    If you leave oil on a stone it will not hurt it, but it can go rancid and smell.
    Do you joint your edge before finishing on an Arkinsas (thumbnail), can a person still get a foil edge while finishing on one?

    I am hearing that they are slow. On average, how long would a person stay on a Translucent before he is on it for too long? Just a ball park will do.
    - - Steve

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  4. #43
    Senior Member jfk742's Avatar
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    There is much less cutting action at this stage when finishing with an Arky. I haven’t noticed a wire edge develop using one, if there is it is incredibly slight. I believe that is one of the biggest factors in the Arkansas’ ability to produce a smooth edge. A Naniwa 12k will produce a wire edge almost immediately if too much pressure is used.

    Make sure to hone with a loupe, it will greatly reduce your learning curve. Use that and the shave To measure your benchmarks for honing.

    I don’t notice much in the amount of time spent on the finisher between my 12k and my Ark’s, by the time you soak the 12k (I soak to stabilize the hone, as it moves a bit as it absorbs water) and finish on the Naniwa, I would almost be done with the Arkansas.
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  6. #44
    Senior Member blabbermouth ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
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    Jointing your edge all the way to the final hone is certainly an option. I have been doing that for awhile now and get great results doing it, so why not? As to how long/how many strokes on a 6x2, that too seems to vary widely depending on how much blade torque, surface prep and honestly, just how much you enjoy doing it.

    Some guys will do hundreds of laps. I cut down on that a good bit with some torque on my highly-burnished Ark surfaces (but only on the beefy quarter hollows or similar that are the bulk of my rotation-don't try it with a full hollow!). The 14"x4" I'm using lately also speeds things up considerably, but not everyone is into the concept of a hone as furniture lol! I generally start with lots of circles and back and forths in parabolic "windshield wiper" strokes. I then start to lighten up as I even it all out with lighter x-strokes. Even on that huge Ark, I'm doing probably 150 or so strokes total, which you would probably multiply by 3-4 on a 6x2. But who counts strokes on a finishing Ark? When it's glass smooth and you don't feel feedback anymore (minimal on a burnished trans anyway), take that light-saber to the strops. I do a post-honing progression from my 2-sided roo up through my various shells for about 150 strokes. If you did everything right you should have the perfect arkie edge: surgically sharp, precise and smooth.

    I don't see LHT post much anymore, but if I recall it was him that would hone on an Ark while watching a half-hour sitcom. He was done when it ended. I've done that myself. Arks lend themselves well to that sort of "no-mind" auto-pilot honing once you know what you are doing on one. I haven't heard of anyone over-honing on an Ark into a wire edge, though I suppose it's possible.

    One thing some of us were playing around with some time back with great results was what I started calling a "thin to thick" regimen. I was doing roughly the following on my 8x3" surgical black:
    1. 50ish back and forth strokes on plain water or until the edge started sticking pretty well all over. Careful at this stage, as digging in on such a hard stone would probably set you back to bevel set! That said, I was/am using a fair degree of blade torque up through the 3rd stage of this. YMMV
    2. Do the same thing again, but with a drop of dish soap in the water. You will get enough slip from the soap for a bit more refinement.
    3. Wash and dry your stone, then use your preferred oil lube (WD-40 for me, some like Smith's or Ballistol and water) for a final set of the same.
    4. Finish on oil with the usual progressively lightening x-strokes.

    I sort of quit doing it this way as it seemed kinda fussy, and I started getting equal if not better results just honing the damn thing on oil. That's the cool thing about Arks: as you learn how they work, you can play around with techniques endlessly, and mostly get great results.

    Though it won't apply to you (yet), my latest thing is something Outback Mike and I have talked about: take a fully-finished Arkie edge, and do about 50 strokes from a fine slurry to water with an Escher or thuri for the Arkie surgical precision combined with the smoothness from the thuri. I'm still playing around with it, but have gotten some great results so far.

    I look forward to your experiments with that stone, Steve!
    There are many roads to sharp.

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  8. #45
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    It depends on the edge. the steel and the finish on your stone. Jointing is not TNT. TNT is wiping the edge, you will roll the edge and tear off any flashing.

    Jointing is cutting off the edge cleanly with abrasive. How much you cut depends on the edge, the stone grit and pressure or number of strokes.

    It also depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Are you straightening the edge, removing microchips, or just flashing?

    I usually joint the edge on corner of the final stone before the final laps to ensure a straight and pristine edge.

    How many laps/time depends on the edge, steel, and stone prep. If you do too many laps the edge can get too thin and will shave well but not last, microchip. If so, joint straight and re-set it. You only need to polish the edge.

    I also strop on linen to remove any remaining flashing/micro burr from jointing before final honing.
    Last edited by Euclid440; 08-08-2020 at 06:50 PM.
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  10. #46
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    ScoutHikerDad:

    I sent you a PM.

  11. #47
    Senior Member blabbermouth ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FranfC View Post
    ScoutHikerDad:

    I sent you a PM.
    Thanks, I replied.
    There are many roads to sharp.

  12. #48
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    Hi all, I figured out something decent to lap my new Ark with when it comes.

    We had a nice mirror that the moving men chipped when we moved from up North (Elliot Lake) so we could never put it on the wall but didn't get around to throwing out.

    The mirror even had wood backing so I cut off one offthe pieces.

    Name:  lappingPlateFront.jpg
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Size:  53.3 KB Name:  lappingplateBack.jpg
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    Also been sorting out and trying to make room in my workshop which has been used for storage since we moved here.

    Name:  workshopSign.jpg
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    - - Steve

    You never realize what you have until it's gone -- Toilet paper is a good example

  13. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad View Post
    I don't see LHT post much anymore, but if I recall it was him that would hone on an Ark while watching a half-hour sitcom. He was done when it ended. I've done that myself. Arks lend themselves well to that sort of "no-mind" auto-pilot honing once you know what you are doing on one. I haven't heard of anyone over-honing on an Ark into a wire edge, though I suppose it's possible.
    Yes, I’ve perfected my lazy honing to state of the art levels. Not only with Arkansas True Hards, but Coticules and Zulu Greys too. I read somewhere, no doubt here, one cannot over hone on a natural stone. So far, so good. Not so on synthetic hones. Greater care. I rarely use scope or loop and depend entirely on feedback and feel. Follow the wave (water or oil).

    But I do love my Arkansas edges, and the auto-pilot joy they bring. I’ve been having very good success lately with Coticules too.
    A little advice: Don't impede an 80,000 lbs. 18 wheeler tanker carrying hazardous chemicals.

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  15. #50
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    A long time ago, I experimented with black translucent Arkansas. It was brought up to 0.3 microns. I switched to it from 5K naniva. Then the oil is stagnant and Arkansas. On this rock is the soft steel of the razor gave a great result. 2-3 shaves without a belt.

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