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Thread: Cutting a spyderco ceramic hone?

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    Senior Member Wxman2000's Avatar
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    Default Cutting a spyderco ceramic hone?

    I've got one of the 8x2 spyderco ultra fine hones that I'd like to chop down to like 5x2. What's the best way to cut one of these? Has anyone done it?
    Classic, traditional Barber and owner at Barber's Notch in Brigham City, Utah.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    I've never heard of anyone trying to cut one, but a diamond tile saw with a slow feed would be my approach.

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    Senior Member Brontosaurus's Avatar
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    Wanting to cut hones down to 5" x 2", a man after my own heart. Looking forward to hearing what works. Perhaps a hacksaw used with a carbide blade?
    Striving to be brief, I become obscure. --Horace

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    Senior Member Wxman2000's Avatar
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    I definitely like something that's easier to hold in the hand...and the fact that I'm looking to use one of these as a quick touch up hone during the day at work! Too bad companies don't still make a real barber's hone though...
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    Classic, traditional Barber and owner at Barber's Notch in Brigham City, Utah.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brontosaurus View Post
    Perhaps a hacksaw used with a carbide blade?
    That would certainly be worth a try. Not a very expensive experiment and very unlikely to cause anything bad to happen.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I have cut a number of stones with an ordinary hack saw. It will dull the blade, so I used one that was already dull.

    I cut stones dry. If you take your time you can get a straight edge. I have also had them cut on a tile saw, when I have seen workers set up wet saws in drive ways of homes they were working on locally. I have had large pieces of marble also cut that way for the cost of a 6 pack.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    I have cut a number of stones with an ordinary hack saw. It will dull the blade, so I used one that was already dull.
    I've cut stones with regular pre dulled hacksaw blades too with good success. That Spyderco ceramic is pretty hard though. Another idea is to add some SiC grit to the cut as you're using the dull hacksaw. A similar technique is used in marble quarries using a cable as a bandsaw blade and adding SiC grit, though marble is very soft.
    Last edited by bluesman7; 09-27-2020 at 09:49 PM.
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    Senior Member Wxman2000's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the tips everyone, it sounds like I've already got what I need around the house to take care of this without having to buy anything specific for it. Here's to hoping it works out good as a fast touch up stone when needed!
    Classic, traditional Barber and owner at Barber's Notch in Brigham City, Utah.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth bluesman7's Avatar
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    Let us know what you end up using.

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    Senior Member Brontosaurus's Avatar
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    I've used a hacksaw with traditional synth stones, using the standard tooth blades for metal cutting. A more controllable result is obtained that way than with the carbide blade I mentioned above, the latter involving a cable or filament coated with silicon carbide.

    But as the stone in question is a hard ceramic Spyderco, I've no idea how the standard tooth blades will work on it. Even with the softer traditional stones, frequently changing blades once they've worn out is par for the course. I've also cut stones with diamond-bladed, tile-cutting wet-saws, but I would be hesitant to try this with a brittle ceramic stone, hence my initial hacksaw recommendation. That said, most tiles are ceramic-based, aren't they?

    If using a hacksaw, I would suggest marking out the dimensions to be cut on both sides of the hone, as well as the sides, and begin on one face, reaching halfway, and then flipping the stone to finish things from the other side, meeting in the middle. If the broad silicon-carbide filament blade does the trick in the end, it might be worthwhile to start out with the standard metal cutting blades just outside of the desired cut, in order to create a kind of preliminary gullet for the larger carbide blade to settle into as it tends to wander from the start otherwise.
    Last edited by Brontosaurus; 09-28-2020 at 05:55 AM.
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