Does anyone see any issues with using a flattening stone on this guy? Seems a bit warped, and there's weird discoloration happening. Stone is completely smooth to the touch.
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Does anyone see any issues with using a flattening stone on this guy? Seems a bit warped, and there's weird discoloration happening. Stone is completely smooth to the touch.
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Hard to say from the pic. Remove it from the box and spray it with oven cleaner to remove the bulk of the crud, scrub with a stiff brush.
A long soak in Simple Green or any good degreaser 50 percent solution will get it clean. May need to soak for days, weeks or months if it is very greasy.
It looks large and possibly an Arkansas stone. If so, only loose Silicon Carbide will get it flat, start with 60 grit. There are many posts on lapping Novaculites.
Some better photos after cleaning may help identifying it.
I started to use a Norton flattening stone on it - the "crud" part is actually what's underneath. The more I flatten it, the more of the solid gray goes away and the more of that "rusty crud" starts to show. It's all super smooth though. Not greasy at all to the touch.
Using a lapping plate on coties can be done but it will ruin a lapping plate as the cotieis so damned hard. Sounds like the color is coming thru more so a cleaning should be done. Grease and oils get down in the stone and can feel smooth to the touch. It wouldnt hurt to cleaning it.
Looks like a washita
I'd agree with it looking like a Washita. But still needs a good scrubbing, before its definable. If it is, you have a very versatile stone.
Having just done this, what worked for me was a week long soak in a degreaser (Simple Green). Heatied the solution and put the stone in just off boil at the start, followed by a good scrub with a nylon scrub pad, then back in for a soak at room temp.
Access to an ultrasonic tub would of course be better... I didn't have that...
Oven cleaner will remove the bulk of the surface crud, then soak for a day in Simple Green or any good degreaser. That will tell you if it needs more.
Most of these stones were used for years with oil and the oil has penetrated deep into the stone. They may not feel greasy but once soaked in degreaser or hot water will release oil. Often the oil becomes rancid and smell something awful, which is the reason I soak them.
Lapping a hard stone is some work that will require fresh hard abrasive, the Norton lapping stone will not flatten an Arkansas stone or any Novaculite, they are just too hard.
You can buy a progression of loose Silicone Carbide grits from 60 – 500 from Got Grit.com for about $15. You will use more of the 60 grit to get flat, after that the other grits go quickly. You will have enough grit to do several stones. Lap on a steel cookie sheet, on a teaspoon of grit and a bit of water, add grit as needed, mark a grid on your stone with a sharpie.
I spent a bit of time cleaning it up. Here's what it looks like now:
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You can see at the very bottom left the area that my flattening stone started to hit. Looks like I could spend a little more time cleaning it?
Also - there are some spots on my flattening stone that are started to feel pretty smooth. I assume I should abort using this stone and find something more coarse?
Yup, looks like a well-used Washita, with a swayback.
It will take some work to flatten with 60 grit. But doable and worth the effort.
Nice stone what are the dimensions?
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I don't have a tape measure readily available, but here's a reference.
Would it be possible to just use 60 grit sandpaper taped to a jointer? I don't have a stone more rough than the Norton flattening stone.
Sandpaper is doable but no where near as fast or cheap as loose SIC. In a pinch it will do it.
Nice stone, I love those smooth washitas.
I did my last one with 60 grt. paper. Its gonna take a few sheets. ( a whole pack ). And a crap bucket if elbow grease.
Mine had to soak for several weeks.
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Before
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After
Cheap 60 grit Wet & Dry is $20-30 per 50 pack. Good 3m paper is $110. Good sandpaper is worth the extra price.
As said, you will burn through a pack, especially as worn as you stone appears to be, probably need to remove at least an 1/8 inch of stone.
Remember to flatten a stone you must remove all the stone, down to the lowest part of the deepest pit.
Sandpaper is way more work, you are looking at hours of work. Lose 60 grit Silicone Carbide will get you to flat in about 20-30 minutes. A ¼ pound of 60 grit is $4.40.
It can be done, it is your choice.
Correction, a full pound of 60 grit Silicone Carbide is $4.40. Way more that you will need.
Get a cheap steel cookie sheet from a dollar store and find a smooth piece of cement floor. Sprinkle on a teaspoon of grit and squirt of water and use you body weight, spin the stone frequently, add grit as needed.
You will feel when it stops cutting. When you get a thick slurry wash the sheet off, I just wash it on to the lawn, not down the drain.
If you haven't already I would pop it out of the old box it is in. Could be the other side is flat and nice.
That's a great find. Hopefully you can remove it from the box and be able to fit it in either way. Those old washitas are great stones. Better than most of what you can get new. A good one lapped smooth on one side and left rough on the other will take you from bevel set all the way up to finish. You may even find it to go as far as you want depending on technique and your preference.
Yeah I was able to remove it from the box and I'm soaking it in hot water now. Will use some oven cleaner when I get back from evacuation. That underside was completely untouched. I'm flipping over the leather strop too. It was just tacked down on each side of the box.
I'll probably wait to see how much I use it before I flatten the previous side. I already have the 120/1k 4k/8k norton honing set, so I'm not sure I'll need this stone having a rough side.
Overall, between this stone and the diamond stone for $20 total, I think I did decent.
Who said anything about needing it? HAD is about wanting it.:rofl2: