Cross-border slurry?

I'm curious as to the community's experience with what I'm calling "cross-border" slurry - i.e. using a non-native rub stone on a native base stone to create a slurry. So for example: using a Thuringian rub stone on a jnat, or a nagura on a coticule or even on a synthetic stone, or vice-versa for any of these or other combinations. (I'm not talking about using different nagura on jnats in a progression.) Does anyone do this regularly? Any interesting observations? Apologies if this has already been discussed elsewhere (or if it's otherwise a ridiculous enquiry. . . ).

It may be worth saying that using Mikawa nagura on jnats actually fits your definition, While both are from Japan, they’re entirely different stones geologically speaking.

Sakimoto San, the owner of the Asano stamps (Mikawa nagura) also uses Mikawa nagura on synthetics, and it does smooth things up a bit. Try using a little koma or mejiro slurry up to 8k synth or so.

I know a couple of guys having used Thuri Slurry on 12k synthetic stones. It helps smooth out the 12k edge as it can be a little keen for some. This is not something new but it hasn't been brought up in a while. Saving used slurry to reuse can be done. But some stones the slurry has done its job and is not going to do much later.

I've read in a thread on here about a decade ago of someone using Thuri slurry to finish on a Jnat, for the same reason as the post above I believe

Sometimes it’s best not to over think things and just try it, lol!

For sure. One of my routines is using a midrange stone slurry. And dumping it on my finisher. No rules. Don't be afraid to try things.

Years ago, I tried all manner of different slurries on a variety of base stones with mixed results. You can get different results but really nothing better than using synthetic stones to fully set bevel and to a near mirror, no stria bevel and super straight 8k edge, then go to a good natural.

For me, it is an Ark or Jnat, and a 2-3 nagura progression. From a near mirror bevel, time on the Jnats goes quickly and results in smoking smooth shaving edges.

I can get a Kasumi-ish like finish on an 8K Naniwia Snow White with a Tsushima slurry. But it is not a better edge, so really what is the point, over proven performers?

As said try them and see for yourself. You will learn a lot about slurry.

I have used coti and Thuringia slurries on different hard naturals for different purposes. One series of experiments was to take a 1K edge and then slurry and finish on a hard natural. The results were poor to great depending on the cutting power of the natural. Some naturals are just too slow, others much quicker. Not great revelations, and I soon returned to an 8K synthetic followed by a natural. Very repeatable great results. It is fun to try different combos.

With synthetics using synthetic diamond slurry will increase the cutting power but will leave a deeper stria pattern and a more ragged edged.

At 1k or what ever bevel setter you are using, the goal is to remove material, grind the bevels flat and get them to meet. But you also want to straighten the edge as much as possible.

If you wash the stone, quick refresh lap and do finish laps on the same stone with clear water, you will get a more polished finish and straighter edge. The difference that synthetic slurry can be add is dramatic, and you can use it to advantage, if you understand it.

With natural slurries, most will break down and the grit combination will be different, and you may not get the aggression, but more polish. So, it depends on what your goal is with each stone, at each stage. You do not want a polisher when you are trying to flatten bevels or get them to meet.

For polishing and final finish, a lot will depend on the quality of the honing up to the finish and the quality of the steel. You may stumble upon a good finish for a particular razor, but is it repeatable?

In short, there are more variables than just the type of slurry, but it can be a lot of fun and a great learning experience and will improve your honing.

Some really good looking fellow said something like

"There is Magic in the Mud" now go get dirty :p

I do this sometimes. Like Botan on a Charnley Forest stone. Tam O shanter on a Fiddich River stone. Thuri on Charnley Forest stone or Glanrafon. Now you would have to try different things on different stone to see for sure, but mostly what I was doing was using a softer slurry stone on a harder oil type stone that never had oil using the slurry to change the viscosity to more of an oil vibe while also kicking up the cutting power usually.

I found the following in some notes I had from 2018. I can’t remember the source and can’t attest to the accuracy of the recommendations, but here it is:

If you are going to be slurry honing on a very hard stone (raising slurry with a hard stone) it's counter-productive to polish the stone too much. It will only make raising a slurry much more difficult. Best is to flatten the stone with a diamond plate then raise a couple consecutive slurries with the rubbing stone and wash them away. Raise the next one and hone with it. This is for finishing only after something like 8k. If you want to try it from a little earlier in the progression you can go to 2k then raise a diamond plate slurry and hone on that, then a rubbing stone slurry and hone on that. Repeat by raising another rubbing stone slurry if necessary until you get your finished edge. On most stones the last one should be a fairly thin slurry, not too thick. Oh, and the radius you have on the corner of the stone should be sufficient. Only polish a very hard stone surface if you are going to use it without slurry. Otherwise you are better off letting the stone go to its natural state during slurry honing.

The only foreign slurry I ever tried was using a synth slurry (6k King if I recall. It's been a while.) on an ark and diluting it out in an effort to find a way to speed up the ark. I was still relatively new to the Arks and decided that I didn't fully understand the stones themselves yet and couldn't quantify the effects.
I'm glad I read this post though because it is good food for thought and something to revisit.

[QUOTE=Euclid440;1937596]

At 1k or what ever bevel setter you are using, the goal is to remove material, grind the bevels flat and get them to meet. But you also want to straighten the edge as much as possible.

If you wash the stone, quick refresh lap and do finish laps on the same stone with clear water, you will get a more polished finish and straighter edge. The difference that synthetic slurry can be add is dramatic, and you can use it to advantage, if you understand it.

With natural slurries, most will break down and the grit combination will be different, and you may not get the aggression, but more polish. So, it depends on what your goal is with each stone, at each stage. You do not want a polisher when you are trying to flatten bevels or get them to meet.

Well put, Euclid.

I've tried an array of ways, and found nothing exciting, using different slurries. I do use slurry, just with the base stone, and a well worn, mini DMT. Only on my Coties, Thurigan, and Escher's....slate's.

I bevel set, on a 1k Chosera, dressed with the Naniwa dressing stone. Or as some of us call..the brown turd.
It falls somewhere in the 6-800, grit range.

The slurry produced with these two, synthetic stones, makes the Chosera a supercharged bevel setter. Perfect for total edge restoration. Cool part...it brakes down, and can be thinned to clear water, for the final 1k finish, in a much faster way.

I did have fun playing around, trying different things. But I'd rather KISS. It works....it ain't broke.