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Ok so not pure oil but Ballistol and water emulsion. Been doing this over the past 2 weeks or so, doesn't seem to improve (or degrade) the finish but the Ballistol provides a nice visual for the liquid displacement. Does anyone know why the warnings against oil were added originally? I vaguely remember a mention of it 'hardening' the stone, doesn't seem plausible imo.
It'll probably clog the stone and lessen its effectiveness or sharpening action
Coticules have been used with oil in the past. All vintage coticules that I ever bought were covered with oil and had a very distinctive engine room smell.
If I finish on my coti I use it with oil. But back in the day many a Belgian rock was sold with instructions to use oil or water whereas the thuringian stones were adamant about using only water. Not sure about anyone else's stones but my thuri seems quite impervious to liquid so I can't imagine oil actually doing anything bad to the stone. I had a suspicion it had been used with oil in the past as the box had a slight bit of that engine room smell but I only used it with water until a couple weeks ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kees
I accidently picked up my smaller Thuringian hone after moving my arkansas loaded with mineral oil and my Thuringian hone now has had two oil finger prints! I have used it maybe 4 times since then and they have faded some but not much. I am keeping my oil away from the Thuringians!Quote:
Originally Posted by thp001
I wonder if some of the stones are more porous than the others? I have one of the small "water razor hone" generic thuringian stones. Dark gray in color. Mine doesn't seem porous at all, when I was using it with only water the water would pool up unless I added a bit of soap.Quote:
Originally Posted by ables
All my Escher labels clearly state to not use 'em with oil and keep them away from fat.
They also mention to use the rubbing stone to create slime to finish your razors on.
I don't even own honing oil any longer
I won't let "Real" oil near my Waterstones including my Coticule
I use a water soluble solution on my Oilstones and have for about a decade now
We all know for a fact the actual oil clogs stones or at least those of use that have ever reconditioned an old Arkie or Charnley etc: do
I also know that if I bought a Coti or Thuri and sniffed oil use, I would ask for my money back
JMHO
Glycerin imo works as well. And water soluble. I know a few guys personally who have used oil on their cotis with no I'll effects. But oil is messy. I don't use any oil stones. I don't have a reason to.
Define "away"? I try to keep them from contacting any fat, but I aint honing at arms length or anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by TristanLudlow
:rofl2: , indeed, my German translating skills aren't all that; keep the stone free from oil and grease would be a better translation.Quote:
Originally Posted by planeden
Coticules are non-porous, it's not an issue tbh. I know a lot of people that used theirs with oil in the past and I can understand why also.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill31521
The ones I were gifted were much finer and better finishers. Very well filled with oil and swarf.
Though, if you give them a quick lapping they're brand new, it's not getting deep into the stone at all.
With more porous stones, you're probably effed.
I've been told that many times before. My issue is oil is messy. I don't find i got anything out of it. but if someone feels that's their ticket don't let me stop you.
Here's what is written in the lid of my dark blue, Thurigan.
Attachment 332714
I use oil or a progression of oil thinned with WD-40 on my Arks but nothing else. Even then I religiously wash the Arks thoroughly with Dawn dish soap or simple green (depending on if it is a hard or soft) and dry them after each use.
Although to be fair, more and more I'm using water on my arks instead, especially on the hard ones. Oil is just so messy and such a pain in the backside.
I tried using my arks with water long ago and just couldn't stand the feeling while honing, I know a lot of people hone this way, especially on the harder arks and get good results and results are all that matter in the end. I've use neatsfoot oil but it does get a bit too viscous when cold so I've been looking into getting something like a clock pivot oil which is designed to stay a consistent viscosity over a long time. I don't know about compared to water on arks but having both traditional oilstones and a set of synthetic waterstones, the oilstones imo are much cleaner to use. I just don't like having water around carbon steel, I always get a bit of whatever honing fluid I'm using on my hands from time to time and especially on a razor where your hands are around the pivot area while honing I really hate the idea of getting water in there. Same reason I never run my razor under the tap and just wipe the blade on a dry flannel to remove lather as I shave.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
I'll use baby oil ( mineral oil ) on my Arks, but only for knives. Water only for my razors
I own two Thuris that were previously used with oil, they both got a soak in simple green. They are oil free now with no harm done to them that I can detect.
Maybe if I come across another oil soaked one it will melt away in the simple green I don't know, but if the price is right I won't hesitate to try it again.
YMMV.
