I don't think I'd recommend loose grit SIC for lapping synthetic hones, or those of soft substrates. Leave that for hard, naturals
I don't think I'd recommend loose grit SIC for lapping synthetic hones, or those of soft substrates. Leave that for hard, naturals
Do it all the time. Scrub it with a nylon brush after and rinse thoroughly though.
10 macgyver's out of 10 for that solution. I never would have thought of it.
If the goal is a flat stone, the grinding media need be on an equally even plane in order to do that.
Use wet dry paper, not loose grit on a flat surface for an even grinding surface to level razor honing stones.
Loose grit, and binder, on specific lapping plates, grooved with channels to hold and release the grit work well for cylinder end lapping, or for course, initial leveling of natural rocks found in the wild maybe, but not finished stones. The media will bunch up n high spots and prevent the stone from getting truly flat, wet paper wont, and can’t. Just keep it wet so the grit and loose media washes away.
Cheers.
Not to be argumentative and with due credence to your machining skills, I have to say that I have never had that problem. I use sic on ALL my stones and I get them perfectly flat (as flat as can be distinguished with a straight edge at least as at a small enough scale nothing is perfectly flat) and have no issues with foreign grit.
I should say though that I use it with plenty of water and lap until the powder has broken down completely and mixed into an even consistency with the slurry from the stone. Then I wash immediately and scrub with a nylon brush on all surfaces.
But why? This sounds at minimum very messy.
Didn't say it won't work, but as for the OP, his skill set isn't at that level...yet. Remember the KISS theory, that's where things need to be with him.
The more complicated things get, the more confusion, takes over. He's already doing enough of that himself, with what he has.
Yeah....if at all possible, post a video of what your doing, or trying to accomplish. And as for your Dovo, I'd bet there was something wrong with it from day one. I've honed plenty of um, and found most to have not been ground properly. Mostly heel and stabilizer issues that cause them to hone a frown. My own, new outta the box, was probably the worst I'd come across. The stabilizer was never ground out too the top of the spine, and the stabilizers were also too thick at the heel. Looked like a wedge, instead of being hollow ground. Sooo, only the heel and 1/3 of the toe were making contact with the hone, until the heel passed the edge of the hone. With a bit of grinding and reshaping, its now better than new.
Mostly I find the stabilizer is too thick at the heel, and need ground more, to obtain the clearance needed for proper honing.
Here you can see where the stabilizer was thinned down.
Attachment 347674
I believe my local guy did do some stabilizer grinding on mine. Photos coming shortly.
Yeah, you're right Mike. I guess you forget when things become second nature that it may take more time before people who are new to it can do it without thinking.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
It actually even take a while before you know what to look for not only when honing but even when buying razors.
The good news for the op is that at some point it will seem like second nature if you stick with it.
I'm mainly curious why you would choose to use powder, regardless of skill. It seems like it would be especially messy for no obvious benefit. Is it really cheap?
