After I had to breadknife some razors I would like to speed up the process of re-setting the bevel. It takes very long to establish the bevel on my Cerax 1000 grit stone.
Which hone would you recommend for establishing the bevel?
Printable View
After I had to breadknife some razors I would like to speed up the process of re-setting the bevel. It takes very long to establish the bevel on my Cerax 1000 grit stone.
Which hone would you recommend for establishing the bevel?
You know for about 3 years the Norton 220/1k has been my goto workhorse.....
I just got the Shapton 500 about 8 razors ago and I am amazed with how fast and how nice this one cuts bevels and corrects real problems...
So far (8 razors) I am very impressed...
Just to qualify this I use many low end hones, I do more restoration honing than anything else, and it is a rare day that I start honing any razor above a 1k stone...
I just picked up the NORTON Stone set off of Amazon.com real cheap, it came with a 220/1000 and a 4000/8000 with a CD and a lapping stone. All for 120 shipped.
Its working out for me,
Many good options in that field. I use a doublesided DMT 325/600 grit for the heavy work. Can't go wrong with them. They're fast, always flat and my 325 doubles as a lapping plate.
Bart.
All great choices, The Nortons, The Naniwa's 200 and 400, and DMT.
I also use my DMT's for lapping plates, so they're multi tasker's.
Do you think a Shapton 200 glass stone would be to coarse?Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Quote:
Originally Posted by walto
I have tried it, it did not impress me all that much... The 500 does!!!
Like Bart & Zib said the DMT 325 is another choice that does have a second purpose...
The DMT actually cuts faster, but it DOES leave deeper grooves in the steel... especially when newer... That was the thing that impressed me on the Shapton 500 pretty smooth as well as fast....
I like the DMT 1200 for setting tough bevels and the Naniwa or Shapton pro 1k for easier ones or to follow up on the diamond plate. I've got the DMT 325 and the 600 but have very seldom had to use them on a blade. Then again I only breadknife if it is absolutely necessary. It is such a PITA to get a bevel back afterwards.
You are absolutely right. It is very time consuming to establish a new bevel. Breadknifing is best to be avoided, but it has to be done sometimes.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Re-setting the bevel on the 1000 grit stone took to long so I used 800 grit sandpaper. That also took a while and I am not sure about the consistency of the result.
The Shapton 500 glass stone seems to be a good choice and is cheaper than the dmt's.
Question??
Did you follow the breadknifing thread that I did when you went to reset the bevel???
Speaking of that I have a few new tricks to add to that thread too...
You mean using 3 layers of tap at the beginning and after the bevel is established continuing the honing process with 1 layer? Thats what I did. I had to remove a chip that was ~3mm wide and went 2mm deep into the blade. That's much deeper than the original bevel was.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
New tricks?
Please, gssixgun, shoot ahead...