Morning Gents,
Quick question: I have a gap in the progression that Im not sure is effective enough. I have a King 1.2k, and a DMT EE-Fine (8k) for my lower grit progression. Thinking of picking up a new hone a 4k-5k stone. Any thoughts?
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Morning Gents,
Quick question: I have a gap in the progression that Im not sure is effective enough. I have a King 1.2k, and a DMT EE-Fine (8k) for my lower grit progression. Thinking of picking up a new hone a 4k-5k stone. Any thoughts?
I think you need a 4 or 5k stone to cover the gap.
1.2k is considered bevel setting grit, 4k is already in the polishing range more than the sharpening range. You definitely can't remove 1.2k scratches with an 8k stone.
I think optimal set up is 3k and 5k before your 8k. This will minimize the time you spend on each stone.
the 8k dmt is a bit different than most 8k stones. I think there are some people out there doing this progression.
I think seraphim said he goes from his 1k to dmt 8k to lapping film.
Just had a discussion on this not too long ago. I do think that is big gap in your progression and your honing would benefit greatly from a 4k, 3k, or 5k.
I've been kicking around the idea, of less lapps and more grits,
I.E. 1, 3, 5, 8, 12, 16k, etc...Something like that.....
Rich
I like the 8k diamond plate for hard stainless sometimes but I always go from it to a traditional rock to smooth things out after I use it. I think everyone should have a Norton 4/8 in the honing arsenal. Just my 2 bits. :)
I tend to look at it like this:
220-500 grit=restoration
1000-1500 grit=bevel setting
3K-5K grit=honing (what do you mean? I think I mean sharpening? what do you mean............I think I mean honing)
8K up=polishing/finishing
Lynn
I just picked up a Shapton 4k only to realize that its a about four microns and my DMT 8000 is 3 microns. Is the Shapton even going to help?
4K is probably closer to 6um.
Now that you have it, use it and find out!:)
Yes, I use the DMT1200 to DMTEE (3um) to 1um lapping film, or as of a day or two ago the Naniwa 12K, followed by Cromox, and I got a very nice edge.
I like th efeel of the 12K so much I'm really thinking about getting the Naniwa 3000 & 8000 to use after the DMT1200. I love the indominable nature of the DMT1200, but would like to see what a different progression results would be like. As JimmyHAD says, the DMT8EE does leave a few little nicks/etc in the edge.
Here's a pic of a DMT8EE edge. I have anew scope I'm playing with, I believe this is 50x, it may be 100x (I lost the documentation for the USB camera....)
Part of it may be that you're dealing with two different rating systems. King is JIS while DMT is (whatever the US uses). I think Shapton is also JIS, but I could be wrong there. Regardless, your King 1.2k is more like a 2 or 3k as for as Norton's go. The DMTEE is also a pretty fast cutter. Off the bat, I would have said that you would probably benifit from sticking something else in there, but you could do without.
Now that you have the Shapton, you are talking about three different types of hones, due to the way the cutting agents are in the hones. As a result, in addition to the various grit ratings, the hones also cut differently (equal micron King vs Shapton vs DMT will cut differently). In that regard, when you mix and match, you really have to find what works (as far as grit progression but also which types of hones go where). Well, that's my opinion at least.
I think that when you travel off the beaten path (which now seems to be all Norton or all Shapton, but I guess that depends on who you ask), you really have te experiment.