Hello, I have 3 questions regarding lapping Naniwa hones. 1. is pre- lapping important before honing, if yes then why? 2. what is the best lapping plate for the Naniwa Hones from 1k to 12k ? 3. whats is the best grit size.
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Hello, I have 3 questions regarding lapping Naniwa hones. 1. is pre- lapping important before honing, if yes then why? 2. what is the best lapping plate for the Naniwa Hones from 1k to 12k ? 3. whats is the best grit size.
I had always used wet/dry sand paper to lap my Naniwa Choseras. It works but can be slow going at times.Quote:
Originally Posted by jules
To answer your three questions:
1. Yes lapping a hone before use is important because you will benefit most from a true honing face when honing a straight razor. An uneven one will cause you greif (you can count on it).
2. You could use a diamond lapping plate. Many people here do, although they are a little costly. You could use wet dry sandpaper on a hard flat surface (like a granite tile), definately a cheaper option. I just bought the Naniwa lapping plate/hone a few days ago. You can see my post here. So far I love it, but I don't know if it is available outside of Japan.
3. For higher grit finishers and polishers you want it as smooth as you can get it. So 1000 grit or 15 micron would be a good decision.
Personally I use a 325 grit DMT to lap all my Shapton hones, right up to 16k and it works great. Plus you can use the DMT as a very coarse hone for major edge restores!
I dont see any reason why you couldnt use the 325 DMT on the Naniwas as well.
I've got the 1k, 3k and 5k superstones and have used the 2 lapping plates recommended at SRD (where I got them) - 60k for the 1k superstone and the 120k for the others.
All the best,
Michael.
I've got the DMT XX, DMTC 325 and the Shapton GDLP. Any of those will do a great job lapping the Naniwas. I used to lap a pencil grid off of the hones before I started any honing session.
I've found that my 20mm thick (no base) Naniwa Superstones don't need to be lapped first in many cases. I usually lap them first anyhow but lately I've been experimenting with beginning without the initial lapping. I lap my Naniwas as I hone and swarf builds up. Working at the kitchen sink makes that easy.
My Shapton professionals do need to be lapped first as they will change just sitting in the kitchen cabinet between honings. Nortons probably don't but again I lap them anyway. Only takes a moment and better safe than sorry. :)
Thanks guys for all the great advise. Will look into getting a DNT plate. regards JulianQuote:
Originally Posted by jules
I've recently started using a 12 Naniwa for a finisher and I was wondering if I should have lapped it first. Of course, I did after thinking about it, because it's a general rule, but it seems flat before I lapped it. I am wondering if Naniwas really need to be lapped when you take them out of the box besides rounding the corners.
yes lapping is always a good thing, but i have a question about the naniwa hones, after i hone up a razor or two i get these black lines that run the length of the hone, do if have to lap this stone every other razor? or i should not worry about these lines. i just like to have a clean looking surface when honing. thanks:confused:
Quote:
Originally Posted by nessmuck
Can you rub them off with your hand under running water? I get the same thing and they come off very quickly with a rub or two under a running faucet.
I too use a Naniwa 12k SS and as with any stone it is a comforting thing to lap first and be assured that all is flat. Anxiety builds when we are unsure of our method. Lap any and every hone and be sure............proceed without doubt............:)
Timely lapping is one principle I have never strayed from, unfortunately I have strayed from all the rest from time to time. Live and learn.....
JERRY
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I too use the DMT D8XX and D8C. Watch the swarf build up on the Naniwa's. Some recommend lapping them submerged. I do not, I lapp them under running water.
You need to check your hones prior to lapping. I use a straight edge, place it diaganoly across the hone and hold it up to the light, If I see light through the hone and the edge, then it needs lapping. A hone must be flat before you put your blade on it.
I have just got in a new mess of stones including the Naniwa 12000 grit superstone. I also got some Norton combos, 220/1000, 4000/8000, and a Norton lapping stone. I lapped everything with the lapping stone, but was worried that the Norton lapping stone may be too harsh for my 12000 Naniwa, or my Norton 8000. One member told me to lapp my 220 with the lapping stone, and then use the 220 to lap the 1000, and then use the 1000 to lapp everything else up to 12000. This sounds pretty good, but I sure would like to lapp everything with the Norton lapping stone, it would be alot easier. I am not sure it is safe though. I don't want to ruin my good stones.
Any advice?
Thanks
IIRC you can safely lap all of your stones with the norton lapping plate from 1k up. I wouldn't lap the 220 with the norton. I would bet 125 sandpaper for that. Your best bet with that kind of investment is to go the extra mile and get the DMT D8C continuous lapping plate. Still stay away from the 220 but you don't have to worry about wear on the lapping plate for many years.Quote:
Originally Posted by lumberjoe