Tips on cleaning Nortons

I was lapping/refreshing/cleaning my Norton 1k after beveling a bunch of razors, and I found that even after lapping the surface, there was still some blackness left in the hone. I tried rubbing it with my fingers, cause that often helps, but no dice. I was going to grab a brush and start scrubbing, but I thought I'd try out the sprayer-thing first (this was my first time lapping in my kitchen sink). The sprayer did the trick. Hitting the Norton with that high pressure water took the blackness away. Now, I'm not sure if the black stuff was driven out of the hone and down the drain or deeper into the hone, but I'm guessing it came out.

So give it a try - shoot your Norton with a jet of water next time you're trying to clean it up; it just might work. And try shooting it before you lap - removing swarf first can only be good, right?

I find a scotch brite pad will usually take off any stubborn residue on any hone really.

+1 to the scotch brite pad, they work wonders

You prefer soap or Comet w/ those? I've tried both on my DMTs, but not Nortons yet (picking mine (4/8) up tomorrow, it looks like).

I was getting ready to start a new thread, but I will just add it here since along the same line. Concerning the Norton 4K, how do I know when iy needs to be lapped. T stone looks and feels to be pretty flat still, but the surface is very dirty and I am not sure if its cutting as well as it should. I did not want to dress too soon and prematurely wear out the stone.

Thanks Chris.

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Originally Posted by knifenutnky

I was getting ready to start a new thread, but I will just add it here since along the same line. Concerning the Norton 4K, how do I know when iy needs to be lapped. T stone looks and feels to be pretty flat still, but the surface is very dirty and I am not sure if its cutting as well as it should. I did not want to dress too soon and prematurely wear out the stone.

Thanks Chris.

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Lapping will remove dirtyness, but so will the methods above. The only real way to know if it needs to be lapped (that i know of) is to make a pencil grid, give it a few passes, and see if it's flat.

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Originally Posted by knifenutnky

I was getting ready to start a new thread, but I will just add it here since along the same line. Concerning the Norton 4K, how do I know when iy needs to be lapped. T stone looks and feels to be pretty flat still, but the surface is very dirty and I am not sure if its cutting as well as it should. I did not want to dress too soon and prematurely wear out the stone.

Thanks Chris.

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You can lay a straight edge across the surface of the hone to see if it needs to be lapped.

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Originally Posted by radaddict

You can lay a straight edge across the surface of the hone to see if it needs to be lapped.

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Been there an done that with a $52.00 pro machinist's Starratt straight edge and it ain't as good as doing the pencil grid.

Regarding black stuff still on the norton after lapping ..... I had that experience and couldn't figure out what was going on. Turned out it was nickel coming off of my DMT 1200 plate. I found out in time (before I ruined it) that I shouldn't lap it with any DMT finer than the 325 and that under running water.

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Originally Posted by radaddict

You can lay a straight edge across the surface of the hone to see if it needs to be lapped.

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Don't do this please most used razor's edge isn't straight ether. you will get a lot false + results.
hope this helps

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Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

Don't do this please most used razor's edge isn't straight ether. you will get a lot false + results.
hope this helps

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Sham, I'm pretty sure he's referring to a straight edge (a reference that is straight), not a straight razor's edge.

I did the grid and started to lap. I was surprised at the amount of wear on the stone. After the lapping was complete I was amazed at how much better the 4K cut. Razors hone much better with fresh abrasive showing. Thanks for the words of wisdom.

I am not sure if this is good or bad, but I went to look for some super fine grit sandpaper (about 1000 grit) to clean my norton. I had heard it is ok. I couldnt find any, but I did find a superfine sheetrock sponge. It looks like a sponge and squeezes like one but has a fine sandpaper feel. I couldn't find the grit rating on it. I have used it a few times and it seems to work okay.

Gotta love the search function- I was going to start a new thread too

While I expected the Norton 1K to get dirty fast I did not think the
same onthe 8K.
Is scotch brite/abrasive pad ok on 1/4/8k Norton stones?

When, not if , I someday find I need to lap (re-plane/level) a stone just
how is this done???
Rubbing it with a higher or lesser grit stone

Or since I have the 220 side on the 1K Norton can it be used on all of them-
I have not used the 220 side for anything-

Mark

Here is the thing the dirt part is going to need to be done way more often then the flat part :D

I grid line my Norton 1k about every 2 weeks but I clean it after every session... (average 6 razors)

I have a Norton 220/1k the 1k side is just about gone maybe 1/8+ inch left I have honed about 3000 razors on that stone the majority of which were some serious restoration blades I have always cleaned the stone after every session about 10-15 figure 8's with a DMT 325 so that might give you an idea of how long they last I am figuring about another 500 razors before I get through the 1k side of the stone...
I guess what I am saying is I am pretty hard on that stone and I still have some life left in it...

Hope that helps

What is the best way just to clean it the- pad or rubbing a hone across a few times? and when one uses a hone do you go up or down in grit?

Would a 220 be ok on the 4/8k or is that flat over doing it.

I have seen grey,red and green pads- is there a preferred pad grit just for cleaning??

I use the green pads BUT you need to watch their use, they will un-even the stone faster than honing will :D I just use them for a quick clean between razors...

For actual flattening and dressing honestly the DMT 8x3 325 grit is very hard to beat, it can also double in as a Restoration hone...

Don't misunderstand I like my GDLP Shapton plate way better, but it is also $275 and I would never toss a Coticule on it without cringing :D

I have found it wastes less stone to do less lapping more frequently than to let a piece go until it is obviously out. lapping takes off such a small amount, and if you use the entire stone-so much the better.

I used to rinse wipe the sludge off with my fingers but since i started using an iyo I can only wish i had started earlier. Keeps the surface in top shape.

The only problem with the 220 is it wears so fast you really need to keep an eye on it. Using the grid between two of your hones will let you know if it is getting out of wack---a good reason to avoid combos I guess

For the first several Nortons I wore out, I used just a pumice stone. They were always clean, but maybe not perfectly flat.........:D

I actually clean them and what amounts to lapping after every use. The Norton lapping plate and the DMT 325 work fine. It really doesn't take but a little bit of rubbing to clean off the stone and it is flat. I really have never considered this removing excess stone and the only reason I have worn out some many is the number of razors I hone and the frequency that I have used these stones.

Have fun,

Lynn

The first time I had a good bit of grey in the 4 & 8K Nortons I was unsure what to do so I very lightly drew the 1K across them and it seemed to work and pretty well to clean them with max of 5 passes. I will go with a green pad next time and wrap it around a stone so my hand doesn't get a chance to roll or apply uneven pressure.

By the time I manage to wear one of these out I figure i will have learned to get several single grit stones.:aargh: