I recently purchased a Naniwa 220 grit lapping plate and the damn thing isn't flat. It has a high spot in the middle. Anybody else experience this?
The only upside is the bottom seems to be flat.
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I recently purchased a Naniwa 220 grit lapping plate and the damn thing isn't flat. It has a high spot in the middle. Anybody else experience this?
The only upside is the bottom seems to be flat.
as any new stone could be not perfectly flat, so are the lapping plates. Those naniwas are notorious for dishing fast, a better otion for lapping would be a 320 DMT.
I would get with the vendor. Forum member Blaireau loves the naniwa lapping plate and he is a hone collector who actually enjoys lapping his hones to assess the quality of the slurry.
how did you test it and how far out is it?
Lapping stones are another type of whetstone - they should be lapped initially and periodically. Lapping plates (like the DMT's) avoid this, but they can wear out, so that is their downside.
Thanks for the feedback.
I tested it a couple of ways. I first noticed it when I was lapping my new Naniwa 12K. I put a series of grids as per the tutorial found here and stated lapping. I noticed the grid in teh centre of the hone was wearing off quite nicely but the ends/edges were taking forever. I finally managed to get get all the grid removed by lapping and thought the 12k was ready ready for use. I put my 5/8" Gotta on the stone and the damn thing wouldn't sit flat and I couldn't keep it flat on any pass. That got the old gears in my skull turning...so I decided to lap my 1k, 5k and 8k. Drew the same grid and started my lapping. Same result as with the 12k; centre wear first. And these were already perfectly flat as I had lapped them a month ago on a nice thick piece of tempered glass with 320 grit wet and dry.
My next step was to go put the lapping plate on my glass shower door. SUre enough, there was a slight wobble when applied to the glass. I turned it over and the bottom was perfectly flat against the glass and wothout wobble.
I went back to the lapping station (my bathroom that my wife calls my mancave) and lapped Naniwas with the bottom of the plate. When I was done, my Gotta sat perfectly flat on the 12k and even created the "suction" feeling when doing passes.
To finally make sure I wasn't losing my mind, I brought the plate to work with me this morning and checked it using a number of things in our engineering workshop that I know are machined perfectly flat.
The result was a high spot in the middle.
Sorry for being so long-winded but I thought I'd better explain what I did and what the results were.
I live in New Zealand and bought it in the US when I was there a few weekks ago, so returing it to the shop I bought it from is a "no go". I might have to chalk this one up to experience and put it in the bin, then go buy a DMT.
nice an through. good job. try lapping the lapper on 80 grit with your glass reference.
Nothing a few delicate taps with a 30 pound sledge won't fix.
James.
Just because it worked on your head, doesn't mean it will work on a lapping plate. Fiddy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo
Just a gentle tap. A little "persuasion".Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo
Actually kevint gave you the real tip. Lap the lapping plate. It may be 120 or maybe like the GDLP 325 but if it is 120 lapping with 80 grit on glass or a granite plate will solve the problem.
Had the same issues with the Naniwa lapping plate. I checked it against a precision ground bar (for leveling frets on a guitar) and it was dished in one spot and rose in another. A check against a DMT that showed flat on the ground bar gave the same results.
I wish I would have checked prior to wasting time lapping with this plate...the DMT fixed the issue in quick order and I'm only out the time/stone height.
I have a friend that can translate the writing on the package and have scanned/sent it off hoping for a bit of help. My gut feeling is that the picture indicates that a separate abrasive is meant to be used as well.
-J
Naniwa's lapping plates work a hell of a lot better if you charge them with coarse SiC powder. I have the 24 grit jumbo size plate (not flat BTW) and use it with 80x SiC powder. I only use this for getting real deep grooves (from knife sharpening) out of stones before switching to a DMT to wrap it up. It gets me in the ballpark and saves some wear on my diamond plates. I couldn't imagine trying to flatten this thing - yikes!
Dave, lately I've been using the DMTXX to knock off a pencil grid, drawing another grid and doing that on my DGLP. Saves a lot of time and wear on the more expensive plate. Sometimes I just do it with the XX and call it good. I haven't had the naniwa to work with as I am pretty set with lapping plates.
Hi,
My Naniwa lapping stone wasn't flat as well. It responded well to 160, then 220 grit silicon carbide paper on glass.
They do seem to wear and dish reasonably quickly, and therefore it is best to re-flatten frequently.
I eventually moved over to using a DMT325 to flatten my hones :)
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
Sounds like the consensus is using grit powder and planning on using a DMT after for a smooth finish. I was hoping that this would be an alternative, but looks like I'll stick with a 325 DMT. The vendor is willing to take a look at it, but I think I'm expecting too much from it. No reason to spend on return shipping from where I'm at. It does work wonders to round over the edges. If I ever get the translation back, I'll be sure to post it.
Thanks,
J
IMHO , you can't beat plate glass and wet/dry paper . I've never needed a lapping plate , and never will . I figure , if something already works well , why change it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by sboness
Thanks for all your feedback gentlemen. I know have a DMT 325 and it's doin' the trick.Quote:
Originally Posted by dave5225
Your right about how quickly the Naniwa's dish...
...Hi everyone...quick question...being a newb, what IS lapping?
Ask & ye shall receive:)Quote:
Originally Posted by certifiedbodyman
Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Wiki