I've been reading so much about coti's since I started SRP a couple months ago, I just had to get one. It is a 7" natural combo. I can't wait to try it out and see what all the fuss is. My question is, what do I use if I don't have a slurry stone?
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I've been reading so much about coti's since I started SRP a couple months ago, I just had to get one. It is a 7" natural combo. I can't wait to try it out and see what all the fuss is. My question is, what do I use if I don't have a slurry stone?
Nice stone. SRP member zib has combo slurry stones in the classifieds here at a reasonable price. Alternatively a diamond plate works and AFAIK doesn't leave contaminating grit on the stone.
someone of authority suggested to me just today, DMT 325 diamond stone.
+1 I got a slurry stone from zib. Diamond plates work as well and sometimes I just use some sandpaper though I may be in the minority on this and it might not be recommended.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Me too:
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/z...icule/cot5.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/z...icule/cot4.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/z...icule/cot3.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/z...icule/cot2.jpg
http://i813.photobucket.com/albums/z...icule/cot1.jpg
My first hone - a select grade Les Latneuses [50mm X 150mm]. I hope I made a good choice.
I just use mine with water. Mine is only for finishing and touch ups.
+1 on the combo slurry stone. Your coti experience will be much better with one. There are simply too many honing options to try out once you've got bot the bbw and the coti ss.Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvitz81
And welcome to the Coti Club. Cotis can be a tough habit to break. It might be easier to give up whisky. Wait. I take that back.
How does she cut on slurry? IMO the slower the coticule the easier it's been to achieve an edge using the Dilution method since there's less of a gap in dulling slurry to water.
That's a very clean Coticule, Chelicerae.
altshaver, yours really has character.
It's funny how due to shaving forums, old coticules that would've been thrown aside from not passing grading standards are now considered the collectible ones lol.
I just ordered a combo slurry stone from a member here. So far I've just been using plain water.
One thing I have noticed. While honing, it "feels" as though it's coarser than the Naniwa 5K that I have. Is that just due to the Naniwa being softer?
If the coticule feels rough to you it really doesn't matter some just feel that way because it's a natural rock, FME. You can lap it with a dmt 325 or wet/dry sandpaper and then lap it again with a higher grit wet/dry sandpaper like a 600-1000 grit and it will smooth it out for you.
When you touch the hone dry, does it feel smooth? Coticules are odd rocks, they bump up their garnets when they're wet. One of the ones I have is very very fast in slurry, the slurry will turn black with metal in ten strokes and it feels like I am honing in sand. With water its completely smooth like glass and hones very slowly.
:OT
This is not really off topic, but I just got a new coticle from Jarrod at superior shave.
I just finished using a modified version of the unicot method. I set the bevel on my nani 2k and then followed up with the unicot method.
My real question is about cleaning the coticule after use. I always lap my naniwa stones after use. Is it necessary to take the same measures with the coticule? Should the coticule be lapped after each use?
No, and quite frankly lapping pretty much any stone after every use is not only overkill but completely unnecessary. If you were honing as many razors in a sitting as Lynn you would probably want a light lapping, but I'm guessing you aren't. Save yourself some time and, more importantly, save the wear on your hones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fbones24
I should have clarified, I definitely don't fully lap my stones after every use. I basically give the stones a few circles with the DMT. Maybe that is even too much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan82
Synthetic stones such as shaptons and naniwas, that have a polymer base can move with changing humidity, temperature and so on. They may bow in the center slightly or curl on the ends and such between honing sessions. Before a honing session I check with a pencil grid and when the grid is removed I consider them flat. With naturals I don't do it as much but I do when I intuitively feel the stone needs it. Feel it through the razor on the hone I mean. Just IMHO.
Yeah, but not all of us are doing the sheer amount of honing/razors per session as guys like you, Jimmy :)Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
Ryan is actually right, they don't need lapping...
I do 5 figure 8's with a DMT 325 before I start honing on just about every hone so I always start with a clean fresh surface... BUT you don't even need to do that little bit...
Jimmy is also right the Naniwa SS, and Shapton GS can be slightly off when you first wet them BUT if you wet them when you start honing on the previous stone they will be even by the time you get to them...IOW toss the 3/4k in the water when yer honing on the 1k and yer fine... Don't take my word for it try it yourself... I still do 5 figure 8's on each of those too...(Jimmy I don't know if it works on the Shapton Pro's)
But honestly you don't need to