Lap Count

I have a 3 razors that I got at an antique store that I am trying to hone. I have a Norton 4/8 and am at the very beginning bevel setting stage. I ran the blade (torrey) on the 4k around 80 times and doesn't feel any closer to cutting arm hair.

I'm using light pressure in the X pattern and was wondering if I just wondering if there was some sort of guide about how many passes it might take. I know that this is a broad question highly dependant on the razor condition but I just want to make sure that I shouldn't question my technique if several members have to use say 200-300 laps before they get anywhere.
Thoughts?

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Originally Posted by volleykinginnc

I have a 3 razors that I got at an antique store that I am trying to hone. I have a Norton 4/8 and am at the very beginning bevel setting stage. I ran the blade (torrey) on the 4k around 80 times and doesn't feel any closer to cutting arm hair.

I'm using light pressure in the X pattern and was wondering if I just wondering if there was some sort of guide about how many passes it might take. I know that this is a broad question highly dependant on the razor condition but I just want to make sure that I shouldn't question my technique if several members have to use say 200-300 laps before they get anywhere.
Thoughts?

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Store find can take a lot more strokes on 4k then you expect. Everything depends in early condition of your blade. it may be 400 or 800 no one knows.
just keep it going until you will have correct bevel.
It is kind a using 1 bullet and getting 2 birds.
if you had 1k norton you will have a lot easier learning curve.
Remember don't move to 8k until your blade pops up arm hairs on 4k.gl

Volley

When I establish a new bevel on any blade I start with the coarsest stone that I deem necessary. It the blade is chipped I will go with a diamond plate, or just dull I begin with 200 or something around a 1,000.

My goal and the way I measure if the bevel is truly set on both sides (planes) is if a burr has been established along the full length of the edge. The burr proves that the bevel has extended all the way down to the very essence of the edge, where the steel falls off into space and indoing so meets the back plane.

After this the whole goal is to, by progressively finer stones, remove the burr by sharpening the blade. I do not cut off the burr at any stage, I always try to sharpen off the burr. It can be a challange to do this and it does take time, but in the end your 2 planes will meet at the exact edge.

The burr I like to raise is made by straight strokes edge into the stone, I do not use back strokes as this defroms the burr or may knock if off prematurely.

Sharpening a blade can take thousands of strokes with a very fine stone, or just hundreds with a good progression of hones, or maybe a few dozen with a tuned in selection of progressive stones. Rhythm and logic prevail. Alx

Try this method:

YouTube - Straight Razor Place '09 Convention. Lynn Honing #1

YouTube - Straight Razor Place '09 Convention. Lynn Honing #2