Hi,
I'm thinking getting a 8x2 translucent arkansas stone. I have a small vintage pike but it is small 3x2 piece. I'm curious about maintaining the hone. What would you lap translucent arkansas stone with? I hear they are very hard stones.
- Mike
Printable View
Hi,
I'm thinking getting a 8x2 translucent arkansas stone. I have a small vintage pike but it is small 3x2 piece. I'm curious about maintaining the hone. What would you lap translucent arkansas stone with? I hear they are very hard stones.
- Mike
I did one wit a XX Coarse DMT plate. Very hard stone as you know. Even then, take you time and do not force the DMT an damage it. The you can smooth it with finer grit if you want it smoother.Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrando
Hi,
So maybe a dmt 325 and 600 would good. It sounds like patients are in order. Would you flatten with water or oil?
- Mike
If it only needs a little work the 325 will work. I would not use the 600 at all. The abrasive will get into the nickel matrix and you will ruin your DMT.Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrando
i use dmt 120 even this doesn't get job done as fast as i like.
Hi,
Thanks, I did not think of the dmt getting clogged. I'll see how it goes. So I don't own one yet, but am shopping around. I just wanted to see about planning to lap it if needed. I've heard some of the new stones may not come lapped ready for use. I'll see what lands in my mail box first.
Mike
The warnings about damaging your DMT are quite real. I ruined a 325 grit out of ignorance. Rather than risk that again, I went to wet/dry sandpaper of low grit. It took a very long time, but I was gun-shy about ruining another DMT.
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by pinklather
I have a 12x12x1/2 piece of marble here. I was thinking the wet/dry sand paper would be a good place to start, using the marble as a flat surface.
- Mike
I would only soften the edges of that hone and otherwise use it as is.
My last choice would be to use sandpaper to flatten it. IMHO, The only reason to lap an Arkansas is if is "dished" in the middle.
IMHO The best use for a DMT or sandpaper on an Arkansas stone is to give the stone an acceptable level of finish/texture or to refresh a surface that has become to glassy and slow.
Just my $.02,:)
you shouldn't need to lap a new arkansas stone and if used properly it will take years of wear before it needs lapping mine have been used daily for nearly twenty years and don't look like they will need lapping for a long time to come
I have a large Black Surgical Arkansas (12" x 3" x 1") which I bought new a few years back from a vendor in the US. I assumed it was lapped but apparently not that well done. Left to Right across the stone is OK but it has a belly of about 0.5mm in the middle (a bit over 1/64"?)Quote:
Originally Posted by Alucard73
I tried a bit with a DMT but saw that woulld be a useless exercise and gave up after about 5 min a circular movements (did not want to ruin my diamond plate).
Anyway my question is can I just ignore this amount or should I send it to some professional outfit to correct it?
(Both sides have a belly):mad:
(the original vendor stated it was within spec)
Cheers
Anthony
as far as i know they should be flat when new i've never had to lap mine as they were flat from the start guess it's something to ask before buying i did the corners on all my stones with a tungsten tile file it looks like a square of grey rough looking mesh and finished with a cheap silicone carbide stone to smoothen it up it wrecked it but i only used it for that you can lap with one too but use lots of water just about any abrasive can be used but they are very hard stone so will take a bit a small belly wont mater that much as long as it doesn't catch the edge best way would talk to a stone mason or similar if you want it will take years of proper use before you get wear marks even the soft ones go a long time if you make sure to use the whole surface they are the best stones i've ever used and well worth the effort needed to get an unbelievable edge
Anthony i just got out a piece of my broken hard arkansas and had a bit of a go lapping it with the tile file with a wet stone and some dish detergent i had a go and the tile file did a very good job taking a bit of with just a couple strokes some of the tungsten bits came off but it lapped the stone finish wasn't rough because of the structure of the stone but it had marks so i grabbed my silicon carbide stone and wet both stones and squirt of detergent 5 or 6 rubs and it was back to normal stone surface the surgical black is harder but they're rated on density so i don't know if it would be that much harder a tungsten tile file came from the tiling section of the local hardware they're made to clean up and smoothen and file away sharp edges of cut tiles if they can do that to ceramic tiles they will do it to your stone they're cheap so it wont matter if you go through a couple
I lapped my surgical hard black with a water based valve grinding paste on glass as recommended by Onimaru55
never thought of doing it that way that's a good idea
Try talking to the vendor and see if they will check a few with a good straight edge and sell you a mostly flat one!Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrando
the stone should come flat and if you only use it on razors you will never need to flaten it ark translucent is a super hard stone . when you get the stone check it with a square to see if it is flat and if it is then you'll never need to worry about dishing it out with razors
Hi,
Since this is an experiment for me, I went with a smaller stone 4"x2" barber's hone size. It came smooth, very flat and chamfered. I also bought some non-petroleum honing fluid from bass pro shop. I think I'm set.
- Mike
Great! thanks for the feedback, that is definately worth a try and also the grinding paste since I already have a thick piece of glass I can use.:beer1:Quote:
Originally Posted by Alucard73
Cheers
Anthony