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Gentleman,
How can you tell when a razor is starting to get sharp off of the 8k. Ive heard some people say the razor should feel like its sticking. Mine just seems to be gliding on the 8k, even after I have lapped it. It also has some dark spots in it, as well as some dark streaks. Thanks for any help.
Did you hone it with anything else prior to the 8k?
Utopian is right; the razor needs to be sharp @ the 4k level before going to the 8k. Generally, it should be shaving arm hair well by this point. If it's as sharp as possible on the 4k, I'd start w/ about 15 x-strokes & test. (Both arm hair shaving & TPT). You might even want to try a shave test at this point.
If the stone is lapped, you might feel an increase in draw on some razors--then again, you might not. I've found it really depends on the razor. Pay attention to how the water is behaving--if the razor is undercutting the wave cleanly, the whole length of the blade, you're probably pretty close. Then again, I've had some razors that were very sharp not necessarily give this indication either. Or at least, not clearly. Best thing is to stop & test often. The pyramid is also a good option if you're new--you can find it in the wiki. Remember to stop & test a lot.
Yes sir. I hit with the norton 4k side before moving to the 8k. I was doing the norton pyramid, starting at 25 passes because the razor was quite dull. It looks like it has a good polish to it, and is evenly popping hairs. The 8k side just doesnt seem to be gripping any. Should I relap it. I used 325 grit sandpaper, would maybe using 400 grit be a better idea?
Thanks gentlemen, I appreciate the info.
Others asked what the previous hone is...Quote:
Originally Posted by celticstone78
A reason is that when you transition from say a 4K to
an 8K the 8K will change at about 10 to 20 hone strokes
and feel sticky as the bevel and the hone match up
more perfectly. This feedback is a clue that you
are done or nearly done. I also depends on the
same laping result for both sides (same flat, same
slight shape).
If you are refreshing a shaver the feedback is less obvious
and almost imperceptible to a beginner so just hone
by the numbers. Start with ten to 15 systematic smooth
deliberate hone strokes. Then strop canvas+leather
and shave test. Repeat if needed.
A combo 4K/8K Norton hone responds to the pyramid method
very well. Search the WiKi for more info.
One key is a light and even touch.
With a Norton 4K/8K the top and bottom eight of an inch is
not as smooth and ideal as the rest of the hone
is so one time lapping that 1/8" off can help. 1/16"
can help a lot and may be all that is needed.
You might need to spend more time on the 4K, as it is quite slow for a bevel setter. By more time, I mean it could be in the range of 100 to 200 strokes. Until you have the bevel fully set, any time on the 8k is wasted.
Regarding lapping the 4k, that is only necessary if you hear or feel that you are hitting any extraneous grit, but the 1/16" to 1/8" is a general range to eliminate it.
I have heard that if your Norton hone is flat and smooth already then it's only necessary to lap it unless the hone is glazing over (ie: you can see the metal remains on the hone and they won't come after rinsing). I usually spend more time on the 4k side than the 8k side because it takes longer for me to set the bevel on 4k side correctly than to polish it.
I've set aside my 4k/8k combo lately and rely solely on my coti to hone my razors now.
From what I have read and felt, the only true test is to shave with it. I recently repaired and honed a razor from 220 through 1k,4k,8k and Coti. Once the razor took off my arm hair on the 1K I moved to the 4k8k progression used by Lynn @ SRD. I then stropped and tried the razor. I had another ready just in case but I was pleasantly surprised with a close comfortable shave.
PS: All the honemeisters test shave a razor before sending it back. That speaks volumes.
This is true for any hone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salsa
Lapping a hone flat is important when switching from
one grit hone to another. If one hone is dished
and the other domed then the surface generated by
the coarse hone will not match up with the surface of
the finer hone and continue refining the bevel.
If the last fine hone has a little bit more dish than
the previous hone the effect is a micro bevel that
some folk like.
A hone that develops a grey surface is a hone at work. The
grey is swarf (removed steel). The grey/ swarf can be removed
by rubbing your hand over the hone under running water. Or
perhaps a Scotch Brite kitchen cleaner.
If the hone was honed flat with an extra extra coarse DMT
it is not uncommon to notice some scratches on the hone
not turning grey from swarf. This is a good thing to notice
for two reasons: it is a clue that the hone is still flat within the
depth of those scratches. It also makes it easy to notice
that the entire hone surface is active. These scratches do
relieve some of the stiction/ feedback but that minor negative
is well balanced by the micro channeling of slurry and improves
the final edge (IMO) as the slurry is diluted.
Once a hone is flat further lapping need only remove the thinnest
surface. Say half the thickness of a sheet of paper or less.
Honing tricks like circles on the front and back of the hone
minimizes dishing and minimizes the amount of hone that is
lost to the lap.
You have gotten a lot good advise .
i couldn't find any information about setting bevel.
Are you using only 4k/8k stone?
have you set bevel on 1k before moving to 4k.?
lastly
you will feel sharpness changed very quickly as soon as you make 10-30 strokes max on 8k.
if you don't then
1. you move to 8k too early
2. you are using too much pressure.
hope this helps . gl