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Hey guys so a awhile a go I was in my local Home Depot when I can across a Norton 6x2x3/4in bench stone with a coarse side and a fine side for about 5 bucks so I picked it up. Now it says to use oil with it but I have treated just like there water stones and found it work great on the fine side for setting a bevel and the course side worked good on chips and lapping my 4k/8k Norton.
This is it on Home depots page Norton 6 x 2 x 3/4 In. Bench Stone - 87933 at The Home Depot
Attachment 67826
How has this stone worked out for you?
This stone has work out good for me. I use it to set all my bevels and have used it to take small nicks out of old blades I have picked up. I also use it to flatten my Norton 4/8 when I use it.
Good deal. I picked one up, too. I also got the oil. I figure I'll try it out that way and see what results I get.
Once you've had oil on it it'll be oily until you give it a really deep cleaning. I'd be careful about transferring the oil to your water hones by lapping them. Also, be sure to lap the bargain hone flat or it'll reshape whatever you lap with it.
There are some bargain diamond plates out there too. If you get one, check it against a good straightedge or trustworthy flat surface before touching it to your hones. The one I bought went right back to the store and I got a DMT instead.
Aren't these stones usually 120/240 grit approximately? Seems like overkill for bevel setting.
Also, make sure you lap this stone before trying to lap other stones.
Actually it doesn't say, but both sides feel rougher than the 4K side of my Norton.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast
I also bought some wet/dry sandpaper and a 12"x12" piece of marble tile from The Home Depot. It's very, very flat. How would this compare to a DMT stone for lapping?
I will avoid the oil. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by roughkype
That's a good lapping solution. If you know someone who has a tile cutter you can trim down the tile so it's easier to work with it in the sink--lapping often needs running water.Quote:
Originally Posted by markdfhr
The Home Depot hone will be orders of magnitude coarser than your Norton 4k. I'd use it for only the most abused razors, and to sharpen lawn mowers and cold chisels. I've got one of them, and it's not allowed in the house. I'm afraid it would bully the other hones for being a bunch of pampered sissies.
Another good idea, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by roughkype
I have my home depot hone on top of my other hones. I thought I heard whimpering coming from over there.
Yeah, you'll have to replenish their lunch money.
Isn't this stone a bit harsh? Have you considered microchipping and/or the harsh edge that would be left behind by this?
Hi Tzee,Quote:
Originally Posted by TZee
Normally I probably would have no use for this stone from Home Depot. I probably will do my stone lapping on my marble tile with sandpaper. I figure the only blades I hone will be for me. At least I plan to start slow and easy.
However, I did purchase a probable pos blade on ebay because I thought it looked cool. It's got stainless steel scales and a stainless steel blade and a "second bevel" that's probably 10-20 degrees steeper than the first. In other words, it's far from shave ready and probably will never be a good razor. Heck, the scales on it make it so its unwieldy, very off balance.
So this is going to be my experiment-with blade. I've a good Loupe on the way so that I can learn to inspect my work visually. I'll try to reset the bevel and keep an eye out for irregularities such as chips and crumbling metal as I work my way up to and through my norton 4/8K to my Thuringian stone. I don't claim it's a true Thuringian because I barely qualify as a newbie when it comes to stones, but it's very hard, smooth as glass, and looks like others I have seen pictures of.
I figure my attempts at making this blade shave ready will take me to school. I'll make plenty of mistakes. I may run into the issues of micro-chipping that you mention. Hopefully my loupe will give me a shot at troubleshooting these kinds of issues.
I think this is going to be fun.
If you want a really cheap bevel setting stone, I would get a norton 1000 or a king 800 or 1000.
The King red bricks of the 800 or 1000 type should be about $20, and can be flattened very well just with wet and dry sandpaper. They'll leave a much nicer finish than an unknown oil stone, one that can be worked easily with a norton combo or any other polish stone.
They're a bit soft, but flattening them is so easy it doesn't matter.
Slower, and cheaper. But it will do the job.Quote:
I also bought some wet/dry sandpaper and a 12"x12" piece of marble tile from The Home Depot. It's very, very flat. How would this compare to a DMT stone for lapping?
Charles
+1 for the King brand stones. I have the 250/1000 combo, the 4k and the 6k. I use one side for my razors and the other for kitchen knives and tools. They were very inexpensive, but they do a clean, consistent job. I've seen the stone that's been discussed here at Home Depot, and it makes me nervous because it is among files, rasps and hammers. The chisels aren't even close to it, as they're at the far end of the aisle. When it comes to something as precise as a razor blade, stick to a known performer. It's not such a good idea to experiment with unknowns when your face is at stake.Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveW
+1.. These stones are more chip removers & edge re-profilers rather than bevel setters.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast
Read about bevel setters here: http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...l-setting.html
First, thanks for the link to Gssixgun's critique of various stones and methods for bevel setting. I think this is the first thread I actually bookmarked (mainly because it's a wiki-worthy article but not in the wiki so far as I had noticed).Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
Second, with all the responses I think I can more appreciate all the various stages of getting a razor honed to a shave ready condition than I did before. It makes perfect sense now how removing chips, etc. would require a much harsher stone than one which is used to set bevels. The stone I have here most likely would create a bevel but would leave such deep gashes that I would waste time and metal on trying to remove them.
Instead I should use the right tool for the job. I'll be out looking for a Norton 1K possibly a King in that range. I'll keep this stone I have in case one day I get into some sort of restoration work that requires more of a bite.
I tend to think more about what is effective for me that what is cheap. Bevel setting stones at the 1K level typically are not too expensive to begin with. There are a few 1K stones out there that work very well at bevel setting. There are Sigmas, Kings, Nortons, Naniwa, Shapton, Arishyama and several others that all will do a nice job whether you are a new or experienced person sharpening straight razors. Some cost a few bucks more than others. I like to find a stone that on a blade in decent condition, I can set the bevel quickly and move on.
Lapping is an entirely different matter and most of the grits used for lapping can be alternatively used for repairing a damaged edge. These stones tend to be less expensive except for the diamond plates which can be very aggressive.
I think the key really is to find what works best for you both in efficiency and in cost. That make take some experimentation and there is a lot of information out there. I like the Naniwa Chosera best for bevel setting, but that is simply my preference.
Have fun.
Having faced a similar dilemma recently, I have to agree that the Chosera 1k is the best choice. It feels great, is fast, and is not lapping hungry.
