C15k, PHIG, C12k+, People's Hone of Unknown Grit

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05-10-2011, 02:37 AM
Nphocus

C15k, PHIG, C12k+, People's Hone of Unknown Grit

So, this story starts out as so many others... with this thing I bought on ebay:
15000 grit whetstone for fine honing. 2" x 6" x 16" | eBay

Pics of as delivered today here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/nphocus/HAD#

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2018.42.15.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2018.41.33.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2018.41.18.jpg

The small stone is the dinky slurry stone that was included with it. The other one is a belgian coticule slurry stone to go with the combo stone that I'm still waiting on. I also have a vintage escher enroute.

Anyway, now that it's sitting here, It's too massive to move over a lapping plate. I don't know if I can true it by moving a lapping plate over it. I'm considering having it cut.

Option 1.
Cut it into (8) smaller approximately 8"x3"x1" hones and sell the spares.
Option 2.
Cut it into (4) smaller approximately 16"x3"x1" longer hones. My theory here is that the extra lengths would cut down the normal honing time in half thanks to the extra run out. I don't know if it would still take as long or potentially longer to break down the grit into finer particles to reach the higher grit ranges on slurry.
Option 3.
Keep it the way it is and buy the biggest DMT they make to try and lap it flat properly, under running water, of course. I can use it to hone my replica Conan the Barbarian sword... not.
05-10-2011, 02:48 AM
Nphocus

I also had a question about these sections:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2018.47.40.jpg

I'm wondering if the scaly sections are okay to hone on. I've seen jnat stones with what looks like all kinds of horrendous scaling.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2018.46.49.jpg

The texture on that side of the stone looks kinda scaly and the texture can be seen in the sediment lines from the side.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2018.49.11.jpg

If the thicker scaly parts aren't usable, that makes me much more inclined to cut it and let those pieces be bottoms.
05-10-2011, 03:33 AM
CrazyCloud

I've been meaning to get one of those little travel hones....:rofl2:
05-10-2011, 03:53 AM
niftyshaving

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nphocus

So, this story starts out as so many others... with this thing I bought on ebay:
15000 grit whetstone for fine honing. 2" x 6" x 16" | eBay

...snip...

Option 1.
Cut it into (8) smaller approximately 8"x3"x1" hones and sell the spares.
Option 2.
Cut it into (4) smaller approximately 16"x3"x1" longer hones. My theory here is that the extra lengths would cut down the normal honing time in half thanks to the extra run out. I don't know if it would still take as long or potentially longer to break down the grit into finer particles to reach the higher grit ranges on slurry.
Option 3.
Keep it the way it is and buy the biggest DMT they make to try and lap it flat properly, under running water, of course. I can use it to hone my replica Conan the Barbarian sword... not.

I happen to like my 14" film on glass hones.
Based on that if you cut it go for the long 16" hones.

When you lap something this big remind yourself that
the razor only sees a little at a time. If you run an eight
inch long DMT up and down it perhaps a bit on the diagonal
in combination with full sheets of 3M wet dry and you
should be OK.

The slurry stone is big enough. Do 90% of your slurry
building on any high spots that you can identify by marking
the surface with a pencil and lap on a large sheet of 3M wet
dry.

If you cut it consider using oil on one chunk. I will let
folk with finishing hones that use oil weigh in but I picked
up a smaller version of this rock and it is not 15K if I use
my Na12 Superstone to compare. Like you I will need
to tinker and test it to see where sits in my hone pile.

I happen to like the size and heft of my chunk. It is
finer than a couple of my barber hones so the key will
turn on how good a shaving edge I can get from it
and on which razors.
05-10-2011, 04:02 AM
Grizzley1

With a monster that big,you could take it to a place that makes granit and marble counter tops and get them to smooth it out at a reasonable price,also they have the equipment to cut it into what ever size pieces you would like-seem that would be the easiest way out
05-10-2011, 07:04 AM
Zelenbakh

Option No.1 looks attractive. I have a small nagura C15K, which I use with my Japanese Nakayama. It works excellent, much better than C12K. Honing stones C15K will be good finishers.
05-10-2011, 07:39 AM
Piet

If you want to lap it as is I would get a glass sheet about the size of a sanding paper sheet. Then use doublesided tape or glue to stick the sanding paper to the glass and go to town on that stone.
05-10-2011, 01:24 PM
Nphocus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piet

If you want to lap it as is I would get a glass sheet about the size of a sanding paper sheet. Then use doublesided tape or glue to stick the sanding paper to the glass and go to town on that stone.

That is actually what I normally do, except I use a piece of finished granite tile and plain tap water provides the adhesion. It's a $5 solution including the tile and the sand paper. I looked at my 12x12 tile and looked at the PHUG and just shook my head, because I already know how hard it is. How really, really hard it is. I remember lapping my 8k norton stone that had a rolling "S" shaped ridge in it from the very top of the stone to the very bottom of the stone and that thing took a good 40 minutes before it would remove a pencil pattern completely in a few passes.
05-10-2011, 01:27 PM
JimR

Wow.

Just....

Wow. That's like a paving block.
05-10-2011, 01:52 PM
Piet

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nphocus

That is actually what I normally do, except I use a piece of finished granite tile and plain tap water provides the adhesion. It's a $5 solution including the tile and the sand paper. I looked at my 12x12 tile and looked at the PHUG and just shook my head, because I already know how hard it is. How really, really hard it is. I remember lapping my 8k norton stone that had a rolling "S" shaped ridge in it from the very top of the stone to the very bottom of the stone and that thing took a good 40 minutes before it would remove a pencil pattern completely in a few passes.

I left out I meant you should lap the stone with the glass sheet in hand as opposed to the usual way of lapping a stone on a glass sheet with sanding paper on it. You should probably glue a handle to the glass sheet to be able to move it around. The handle could be just a block of wood or an actual door handle.
05-10-2011, 01:55 PM
Nphocus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piet

I left out I meant you should lap the stone with the glass sheet in hand as opposed to the usual way of lapping a stone on a glass sheet with sanding paper on it. You should probably glue a handle to the glass sheet to be able to move it around. The handle could be just a block of wood or an actual door handle.

THAT IS A MOST EXCELLENT SUGGESTION!!!! Now it seems feasible!

Many thanks. I think I have some epoxy that should be able to bond wood to the coarse back side of the granite.
05-10-2011, 02:31 PM
Nphocus

I just got a call back from a Marble and Granite supplier that's 5 minutes from my job. They are available to cut my paver :)

She who must be obeyed is enroute with the stone to pick me up. I don't think I would manage the stone too well on my motorcycle.
05-10-2011, 06:10 PM
Nphocus

PHUGging Sweet!

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.19.27.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.19.44.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.19.55.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.20.42.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.20.16.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.20.05.jpg

I just picked them up from:

General Marble & Granite Co
Place page
2118 Lake Avenue
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 353-2761

They did the cuts free of charge while I waited. Their freshly cut surfaces look like they've been lapped, but that's just the quality of their saws and the expertise of the operator. The first 1/4" of the surface looks almost translucent, like an Arkansas. It feels smooth...

I went to new Woodcrafters, located here in Richmond VA and was shocked at their DMT pricing. It's almost double what they are online. The 6" plastic DMTs were $99.99. No thanks. I will be doing 80 grit to 400 grit sandpaper on my granite tile. The 16x3x1 inch slabs are much more manageable and shouldn't be an issue to lap now. I'm also starting with a much smoother finish now.

I may still go and have an inch taken off the end of each slab for a slurry stone.
05-10-2011, 06:59 PM
thehekler

Wow... They did an excellent job, though I do think that slab you had may have been nice if you were polishing a katana's edge. What are you gonna do with your four new hones? I can see using water on one and oil on another to see if there is any difference in effect but that only uses two.
05-10-2011, 07:24 PM
Nphocus

Quote:

Originally Posted by thehekler

Wow... They did an excellent job, though I do think that slab you had may have been nice if you were polishing a katana's edge. What are you gonna do with your four new hones? I can see using water on one and oil on another to see if there is any difference in effect but that only uses two.

I hadn't read anything about honing on these stones with water. I honestly don't have plans for them. Do you have any links to threads on them being used on oil? Are you referring to a specific cutting oil or just sewing oil?

Tonight, I'll probably start flattening the tops and bottoms of each piece and bevel all of the edges and corners.
05-10-2011, 08:12 PM
ScottGoodman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nphocus

I honestly don't have plans for them. Do you have any links to threads on them being used on oil? Are you referring to a specific cutting oil or just sewing oil?

If you do plan on using oil it will cause it to act like a higher grit stone. I use oil (sewing machine oil from Hobby Lobby & Kroil that I had to mail order) on my Charnely Forrest. Basically, if the stone is finishing around 12K the oil could make it seem like it's a 20K+. What the oil does is literally hydroplane/lubricate the blade thus causing the blade to glide more over the stone & reducing the abrasiveness. If the stone is a slow stone, it will make it a slower stone.

Those stones are real cool! Since you cut them down & if you plan on keeping them at 16", you might consider adding some sort of backing of something like a hardwood. I'd hate to see you get that big ole' thing lapped right and then it break on you. I love stones in the 10-12" range, so I can't imagine a 16" one!

Best of luck!
05-10-2011, 08:15 PM
Nphocus

Quote:

Originally Posted by shooter74743

If you do plan on using oil it will cause it to act like a higher grit stone. I use oil (sewing machine oil from Hobby Lobby & Kroil that I had to mail order) on my Charnely Forrest. Basically, if the stone is finishing around 12K the oil could make it seem like it's a 20K+. What the oil does is literally hydroplane/lubricate the blade thus causing the blade to glide more over the stone & reducing the abrasiveness. If the stone is a slow stone, it will make it a slower stone.

Those stones are real cool! Since you cut them down & if you plan on keeping them at 16", you might consider adding some sort of backing of something like a hardwood. I'd hate to see you get that big ole' thing lapped right and then it break on you. I love stones in the 10-12" range, so I can't imagine a 16" one!

Best of luck!

When starting with oil, do you still build a slurry? Is there a progression like the dilucote method where you dilute the slurry/swarf?

Thank you.
05-10-2011, 08:46 PM
ScottGoodman

I finish my razors to 12K if I am using Nani's or 16K if I'm using the Shapton GS's and then use only oil on the stone...no slurry at all. If you are planning on a slurry I would recommend water. I played around with slurry's for a while, but have backed off. It would be fine for a "one stone" honing, but otherwise I really don't use it any more.
05-10-2011, 10:15 PM
Grizzley1

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nphocus

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.19.27.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.19.44.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.19.55.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.20.42.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.20.16.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2013.20.05.jpg

I just picked them up from:

General Marble & Granite Co
Place page
2118 Lake Avenue
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 353-2761

They did the cuts free of charge while I waited. Their freshly cut surfaces look like they've been lapped, but that's just the quality of their saws and the expertise of the operator. The first 1/4" of the surface looks almost translucent, like an Arkansas. It feels smooth...

I went to new Woodcrafters, located here in Richmond VA and was shocked at their DMT pricing. It's almost double what they are online. The 6" plastic DMTs were $99.99. No thanks. I will be doing 80 grit to 400 grit sandpaper on my granite tile. The 16x3x1 inch slabs are much more manageable and shouldn't be an issue to lap now. I'm also starting with a much smoother finish now.

I may still go and have an inch taken off the end of each slab for a slurry stone.

Glad it worked out for you-I thought you would not have a problem with this method
05-11-2011, 02:22 AM
Nphocus

Lapped and lightly beveled - 30 minutes work

More pics here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/nphocus/HAD#

Briefly :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.50.36.jpg
The saw blade left a very flat finished surface. I'm very impressed by the work. The pencil grid took minimal time and effort to remove. I basically went thru the motions because this is what I do with all of my hones. Mind you, I am a NOOB. I am not even remotely a honemeister. That was an undershirt for work, oh well. The background is the sink where the other 3 stones were soaking. Note the grey water from the stones slurry. I only did one stone.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.51.18.jpg
This is freshly sawn, no sanding. Note, the tshirt is still clean...

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.53.45.jpg
Light milk from 60 grit.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.54.33.jpg
Iron Flower... as they seem to like to show on all of the jnats... The first razor on this hone will be my chinese Gold Dollar. I promised pinklather that he would get a GD from me with my edge on it. He doesn't seem to have a high opinion of GDs or Chinese steel in general.
05-11-2011, 02:26 AM
Nphocus

Thirsty stone

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.54.01.jpg
These pics were within 30 seconds or less of each other.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.55.52.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.56.13.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.58.00.jpg
Soaking wet to bone dry in under 2 minutes. I can rub the surface of the stone with my finger and bring water back to the surface. The surface is very smooth to the touch.
05-11-2011, 02:38 AM
Nphocus

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.59.42.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.59.30.jpg
This was the initial surface as received. Note the rough saw cuts.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.17.27.jpg
This is the 16 inch x 3 inch x 1 inch thick stone with a light bevel and lapped to 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper using the 12 inch x 6 inch x 1/2 inch black granite next to it. To the very far right is the second ugliest piece of micarta ever. The ugliest piece is in the kitchen trash can, still attached to the piece of granite that was used to press it. Don't ask.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.24.18.jpg
All 4 pieces. I'm surprised by how noticeable the difference is between the lapped and unlapped pieces.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.24.42.jpg
05-11-2011, 02:38 AM
Nphocus

I like the patterns from the sediment. You can see the banding from where the halves were separated in the heart of the stone.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.25.14.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.25.35.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.26.23.jpg
Water brings the color contrasts out even more.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.26.53.jpg
Once again, pics taken within 30 seconds and you can see how quickly the stone absorbs water.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.29.09.jpg
05-11-2011, 04:41 AM
pinklather

They look wonderful nphocus. 'Very nice work w/ that big brick. May they give many smiles.

'Curious about their speed, compared to a C12k. Maybe raise a light misty slurry and see how many strokes it takes before you notice the slurry starting to turn gray from metal swarf.
05-11-2011, 06:52 AM
Zelenbakh

Well, now you have enough stones to open your shop.
05-11-2011, 09:32 AM
Legion

This is a great thread. As soon as I saw that monster stone I though "whoh Nelly, he better gut that thing up!" It turned out better than I would have expected. Great result! If you weren't so far away I'd be trying to buy one of those off you.

+1 to the person who said back it with a piece of wood. It will make it a lot more stable and give you more knuckle clearance.
05-12-2011, 03:41 AM
Nphocus

It's late, I'm tired

Double checked with pencil grid marks on the c15k and my norton 4k/8k. I also beveled every corner on that stone with 60 grit dry sand paper.
https://picasaweb.google.com/nphocus/Honing#

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.09.03.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.13.57.jpg
The phig is clean after less than 30 seconds of wet 400 grit sandpaper on a half piece of granite flooring tile.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.33.08.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.32.55.jpg
Corner beveling mess. This is only after 1 stone on 60 grit dry sandpaper. My wife really loves me.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.21.57.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.21.25.jpg
RAD caused me to buy alot of ebay blades. HAD caused me to buy alot of stones. Now I feel restoration disease rearing it's ugly head. That's Bloodwood and East India Rosewood that a friend cut into 1/8th inch strips for me. That's alot of scales.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.18.59.jpg
This evenings test subjects are a freebie Gold Dollar that I received as a bonus from a seller here at SRP. That thing is a total turd. I can not begin to count the ways. I believe that if I can put an edge on that, then anything else is child's play. The other razor is a St. Louis Kopper Kid. It should be a shumate-like quality blade.
05-12-2011, 03:51 AM
Nphocus

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.56.12.jpg
I used my coticule slurry stone to raise slurry. I discovered that this stone has alot of stiction. I also learned that the blade and stone will exhibit stiction when the razor has reached it's limit on that particular stone. The GD was already shave ready from my 8k norton and 200+ laps each on linen and leather. I have shaved with it a couple of times and both times it was nothing to write home about. It was decent for my own first edge off of an 8k. 10 laps on slurry on the phig took it to another level.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2020.56.26.jpg
That was nice to see. So, I started experimenting with strokes and slurry and diluting and eventually on dry stone. I like the extra run out length alot. It lets me focus on my stroke alot more, rather than keeping the correct movement angle to make sure I hit the entire width of the blade.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.04.04.jpg

I'm not experienced enough with honing and stones to talk about HHT and what not or to even compare it to other finshers like coties, thurries, and jnats.... yet. My combo coti should be here tomorrow. Hopefully my thurry will be here by monday. That being said, I'm happy with the stone. I'm very happy with the length. I need a bevel setter, either a 1k chosera which is going for 90$ right now or a DMT 325 for lapping and a DMT 1200 that I can break in by lapping the remaining phigs. I can get both of the DMTs in 8x3" sizes for the price of 1 chosera.
05-12-2011, 04:08 AM
pinklather

"10 laps on slurry on the phig took it to another level." Go phocus Go! It would be encouraging to get results that fast. Keep going!
05-12-2011, 06:34 PM
Nphocus

Impressions

From last night:

I beveled every corner on the c15k.

I put the 1" square slurry stone under the 16" phig in such a way that the phig balanced on it evenly. I then started making my passes, so that I wouldn't apply any more pressure than the edge of the blade. What I learned was that alot of effort is put into counter balancing the scales to keep the spine and edge even.

I learned about Stiction tonight. Sticky friction. I had experienced a little bit of it on my 8k norton without realizing the significance of it. I spent enough time sanding and lapping the phig and truing my norton that I felt it again. I then noticed it yet again when I was touching up my Gold Dollar on the 8k and then on the phig. That stiction is where it's at. I believe that that's the tell-tale for when you're ready to move on. I felt that in my blades tonight. Very happy.

The Gold Dollar was taken to a new level on the phig. I know that it's low hanging fruit, but the entire edge is sharp. I mean, I was resting it on an area of my leg to test and felt it start to bite. The sound of it cutting is different. The angle to cut is DRASTICALLY reduced. It cuts almost horizontal and wipes the hairs away. No squeegee effect, but it's a vast improvement from the prior finish on my 8k.

I overhoned it on the phig trying different stuff and working to hit the toe. I'm almost proud of it now. I need to shave with it a couple of times and see where I need to further refine it, but it's in a good place now.

From this morning:

I did a short section of test shave on the Kopper Kid. The bevel isn't right. It's also stainless steel. I need to start at the beginning with that one. The tip on being able to shave arm hair all the way across the blade from the bevel set is really good advice. The other tip on the bevel set being 90% of the edge is another really good piece of advice. I believe both hold true.

I shaved with the Gold Dollar this morning. It didn't feel like the same razor. I can now see the shortcoming in the steel itself. It's a softer steel, not the same quality of hardness as the ST. Louis & New York steel that I've set my standard by.

That being said, the edge was good. It was good from toe to heel. Granted, it was already shave ready from the 8k and I was able to shave with it, but the harshness was obvious. The new edge really doesn't feel like the same blade. No pulling, no burn, no skin abrasion at all. I could shave with this edge and be good.

I did more than 10 laps with the Gold Dollar on the long stone. I just tested it after 10 laps and noticed a difference. I did alot of different things after that on coti slurry, water, and finally dry. I actually had an issue shaving atg this morning starting at my neck because the edge seemed like it wanted to stick to my neck. It's not scary sharp at all, but it has no problem making stiff hairs fly.

I need to work on my honing techniques. The long stone lets me focus more on what the blade is doing and what I'm doing in relation to it and I can zone in on the wave that it's pushing and adjust my pressure and touch accordingly.

In other news:

My belgian combination BBW/yellow coticule should be here today. I'll experiment with bevel setting on thick slurry on that. The coti slurry stone seems xtra hard. The 15k slurry stone has alot of thick red striations in it and seems extra extra extra hard. The phig I've been using only has two light red bands in it. 2 of the other 3 have significantly more red banding on one half of the stone. I'm betting that those are also extra extra hard.
05-12-2011, 10:35 PM
Nphocus

Fresh from the `bay:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.09.28.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.03.35.jpg

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.04.12.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.06.16.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.06.57.jpg
05-14-2011, 01:45 PM
Nphocus

Damn picture post limit!

This story begins like so many others before it... It came from ebay... looking like this.. :cry:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.03.03.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.03.35.jpg
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.04.12.jpg

It was a fair bit on the tiny side compared to some of the other stones I've been working with lately:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2016.09.28.jpg

After a bit of time with an equally miniscule 725 grit diamond stone:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.27.29.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2021.38.39.jpg
05-14-2011, 01:46 PM
Nphocus

We finally start to see some true colors shining thru /CindyLauper
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.12.09.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.13.14.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.13.31.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.19.26.jpg
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.19.45.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.20.13.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_2...2022.20.42.jpg
And thats why I love you... /CindyLauper
05-14-2011, 03:05 PM
Piet

Ease up on the beveling. All you have to do is round the edges a little bit, most of my stones have bevels of 0.5-1mm. Pictures can be deceiving but it looks like you gave the edges a 45 degree angle which could mean they still need a little bit of rounding. I've seen even bigger bevels, but not many :D

All you have to do is a few passes with a strip of 240grit sanding paper.

I don't think anyone has ever made this many pictures of Guangxi stones before.
05-14-2011, 03:24 PM
Nphocus

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piet

Ease up on the beveling. All you have to do is round the edges a little bit, most of my stones have bevels of 0.5-1mm. Pictures can be deceiving but it looks like you gave the edges a 45 degree angle which could mean they still need a little bit of rounding. I've seen even bigger bevels, but not many :D

All you have to do is a few passes with a strip of 240grit sanding paper.

I don't think anyone has ever made this many pictures of Guangxi stones before.

I know from doing engine work that smoother is stronger and reduces the likely-hood of fractures and cracks. I also think that it's aesthetically pleasing. I did bevel at 45 degrees. I wasn't too concerned about the loss of surface area :) I will take your advice and round it a bit more.

Is there such a thing as too many pics? I mean, I could write more and you can imagine it, or I can post pics and you, the viewer, can draw your own conclusions.
05-14-2011, 03:29 PM
Piet

Sorry if I sounded a bit harsh. Now they're at 45 degrees they probably don't need more than just 1 pass because there are no chips.