Japanese Natural Waterstone (400-800 ??)

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06-06-2011, 06:01 PM
Slur

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Japanese Natural Waterstone (400-800 ??)

I recently bought this Japanese natural waterstone from here.

Attachment 70929

I like it very much. It gives me a very nice sensation when honing a razor. Now I understand why many people prefer natural stones.

In the website they say that it is corresponding to synthetic 400-800 grit.
I am not an expert, I am actually a beginner but I have a Norton 220/1000 comb, a Norton 4000/8000 comb, and some others. My opinion is that this stone is more than 1000grit. Maybe 2000 or 3000grit, I am not sure.

Is there anyone else here that has this natural Japanese hone?
Could you tell me your opinion about the grits of this stone?

Thank you.
06-06-2011, 06:08 PM
holli4pirating

That looks to me like an Amakusa red, but I could be mistaken. I believe the AR is ballparked around 800.
06-06-2011, 06:08 PM
mainaman

Usually low grit J-nats are slow cutters compared to synthetic counterparts, and finish above the grit rating they have.
06-06-2011, 06:10 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

That looks to me like an Amakusa red, but I could be mistaken.

I was about to say Amakusa too, but it looks more like the white one (it has those green veins running trough the stone) except that red figuring makes me wonder if it is not a mix.

White amakusa is rated ~1k, but finishes like ~2k
06-06-2011, 06:20 PM
Slur

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

White amakusa is rated ~1k, but finishes like ~2k

What do you mean by that? How can it be?
06-06-2011, 06:53 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slur

What do you mean by that? How can it be?

I mean that the stone is rated ~1k, but the finish is ~2k.
The slurry is friable and breaks down as you work it.
06-06-2011, 07:03 PM
Slur

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

The slurry is friable and breaks down as you work it.

Ok, it is clear now. So, I suppose that if I want to keep it honing in 1k, I should remove the slurry as it forms.
06-06-2011, 07:06 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Slur

Ok, it is clear now. So, I suppose that if I want to keep it honing in 1k, I should remove the slurry as it forms.

yes, but those stones are pretty slow compared to the synthetics available.
06-06-2011, 07:17 PM
Slur

Yes, I noticed that.

Actually, I have three natural stones, this one (1000), a Rozsutec Slovakian stone (6000), and the Peoples’ hone (let’s say 12000).
So, I think I could use as a pyramid these natural stones avoiding the Nortons.

The honing progress will be slow, but it is more pleasant than with the synthetics.
06-06-2011, 07:23 PM
mainaman

yes try them and see how it goes.
06-11-2011, 12:15 AM
Scipio

I understand why some wish to use an entirely natural progression. I looked into the 'low grit' J-nats, but after some research concluded there are no quick natural bevelsetters, when compared to Naniwas.
06-11-2011, 12:26 AM
maxim207

Yep.. for Jnats there are no really bevel setter that is fast enough for razors :(
06-11-2011, 08:51 PM
Frankus

Hi
what do you mean? by fast, I have 3 Naniwas Stones, S220, s800/5000 and a s12000, also Belgium blue and coticules.
and cannot sharpen my two test Razors, two un-named French Blades, to save my Life.
would I need an 8000 Naniwas.
will try some near shave ready Blades on 12000?
Please help
Thanks
Frank
06-11-2011, 09:17 PM
Scipio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frankus

Hi
what do you mean? by fast, I have 3 Naniwas Stones, S220, s800/5000 and a s12000, also Belgium blue and coticules.
and cannot sharpen my two test Razors, two un-named French Blades, to save my Life.
would I need an 8000 Naniwas.
will try some near shave ready Blades on 12000?
Please help
Thanks
Frank

I'm not entirely sure what you are asking, therefore the advice provided will be incomplete.
I would say nothwithstanding the above, if a blade is not 'sharp' as in cutting arm hairs at least off your 5K, an 8K will be useless.

1) What do you mean by sharp?

2) What can you sharpen? I ask, because such an answer would ascertain to a degree your capabilities.

3) Assuming you can hone, are those French blades any different to razors you have successfully honed - ie. uneven wear, heavy grinds, pronounced smiles? All these factors make differences which one has to adjust their technique accordingly to cater for.

4) Ordinarily I would not use a 220 for razors, the exception being extremely aggressive work. Also ordinarily, the jump from 5000 to 12,000 is slightly larger than I would like, however slurry on the 12K could help, better yet, your coticule fills the gap very nicely.

5) Explain how you have been honing, using your progression.