shoubudani asagi kan

Printable View

06-22-2011, 04:01 PM
eleblu05

2 Attachment(s)

shoubudani asagi kan

here is my new japanese stone a shoubudani asagi kan and slurry stones . received the stones from max at jns enjoy!
06-22-2011, 04:04 PM
Birnando

Congrats!
Lovely set up!
In fact, I bought basically the exact set from him a couple months back.
I have worked a lot on the Shoubudani lately, and I find it to be a superb stone and fantastic finisher!
06-22-2011, 05:08 PM
mainaman

Yes those Shobudani and the oozuko are very very nice stones.
06-22-2011, 05:30 PM
hi_bud_gl

test and let us know how it will act.Congratulations.
06-22-2011, 05:32 PM
Utopian

I regret missing out on the ShoobyDooby run.
06-22-2011, 06:23 PM
JimmyHAD

Beautiful stone, congrats .... I'm still shooting for a Devonshire oil stone .....:gaah: :rofl2:
06-23-2011, 03:08 AM
Utopian

I just ordered one of Max's rocks.

Hone curiosity can be kind of expensive.
06-23-2011, 03:40 AM
Wintchase

What is the web site?
06-23-2011, 03:54 AM
mainaman

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wintchase

What is the web site?

JNS japanesenaturalstones.com
he posts all new stones he gets for sale there.
send him an e-mail and see what he has for you.

I got this one from him:

Attachment 72036

I asked for a stone that is as close as possible to his hard Oozuko, and this one turned out to fit the criteria.
06-23-2011, 04:00 AM
Utopian

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Beautiful stone, congrats .... I'm still shooting for a Devonshire oil stone .....:gaah: :rofl2:

If you happen to find two of them, I'll trade you one of my Chroniks for one of them.
06-29-2011, 07:30 AM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

JNS japanesenaturalstones.com
he posts all new stones he gets for sale there.
send him an e-mail and see what he has for you.

I got this one from him:

Attachment 72036

I asked for a stone that is as close as possible to his hard Oozuko, and this one turned out to fit the criteria.

Dude, I had a feeling you bought that stone, lol, turns out my
feeling is correct.

How has your experience been with this stone?

Sharpman
06-29-2011, 07:32 AM
MarkinLondon

Quote:

Originally Posted by Birnando

Congrats!
Lovely set up!
In fact, I bought basically the exact set from him a couple months back.
I have worked a lot on the Shoubudani lately, and I find it to be a superb stone and fantastic finisher!

Are you bringing them to London for the meetup? I've always wanted to try out a fully jnat/slurry setup.
06-29-2011, 07:35 AM
Birnando

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkinLondon

Are you bringing them to London for the meetup? I've always wanted to try out a fully jnat/slurry setup.

Indeed I am Mark.
I look forward to hearing your thoughts on Nagura honing on a Japanese Natural.
06-29-2011, 11:07 AM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpMan

Dude, I had a feeling you bought that stone, lol, turns out my
feeling is correct.

How has your experience been with this stone?

Sharpman

so far the finest stone I have tried of any kind, Jnat or other natural.
06-29-2011, 12:11 PM
BanjoTom

A short while back I bought a Shoubudani Aisa from JimR. I bought it from him because he had tested and used this very stone. I fell in love with it after I used it. It will reflect light (mirror) at 10° and is a very hard stone. He furnished it with a Tenjou Nagura as well as a Tomonagura. This stone was sourced from Bo-ohku hones in Kyoto and its purchase is one of the smartest things I've done in the last year. I hope you enjoy your Shoubudani as much as I enjoy mine.
06-29-2011, 01:07 PM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

so far the finest stone I have tried of any kind, Jnat or other natural.

Very happy for you! Hopefully this will take away or reduce your HAD
before you go broke!

I asked Maxim for flawless(no lines,cracks etc) super fine, very hard stone, but
at the same time being not very expensive. I think he could not find me one for
a reasonable price,lol can't blame him.

offtopic:
How do you flatten your natural stones, those that are very hard? I read some
can kill a diamond plate even. I tried flattening one with sic paper, but noticed
the some of the sick grit that came loose from the paper would get stuck in the natural stone. I could see little black dots in my natural stone.

Sharpman
06-29-2011, 01:16 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpMan

Very happy for you! Hopefully this will take away or reduce your HAD
before you go broke!

I asked Maxim for flawless(no lines,cracks etc) super fine, very hard stone, but
at the same time being not very expensive. I think he could not find me one for
a reasonable price,lol can't blame him.

offtopic:
How do you flatten your natural stones, those that are very hard? I read some
can kill a diamond plate even. I tried flattening one with sic paper, but noticed
the some of the sick grit that came loose from the paper would get stuck in the natural stone. I could see little black dots in my natural stone.

Sharpman

DMT XXC, then worn off DMT 325, another fine but softer jnat that about makes it almost as smooth as it can be.

It is hard to find a really top notch stone that is perfect aesthetically for little money, they are too rare to be cheap.
A cheaper alternative would be koppa size.
06-29-2011, 01:22 PM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

DMT XXC, then worn off DMT 325, another fine but softer jnat that about makes it almost as smooth as it can be.

It is hard to find a really top notch stone that is perfect aesthetically for little money, they are too rare to be cheap.
A cheaper alternative would be koppa size.

Thanks for the reply Stefan.

Have you seen the new DMT XXC plate?

With reasonable I meant about 250-350euro, but I guess
that wouldn't even be enough.

Sharpman
06-29-2011, 01:36 PM
BanjoTom

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpMan

offtopic:
How do you flatten your natural stones, those that are very hard? I read some
can kill a diamond plate even. I tried flattening one with sic paper, but noticed
the some of the sick grit that came loose from the paper would get stuck in the natural stone. I could see little black dots in my natural stone.

Sharpman

I have learned to use a DMT on my Chinese 12k and then to use the Chinese on my Shoubudani while running water over both of them. It works well for me. I look for a 10° reflectivity on a dry stone. That seems to fill my needs.
06-29-2011, 01:45 PM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by BanjoTom

I have learned to use a DMT on my Chinese 12k and then to use the Chinese on my Shoubudani while running water over both of them. It work well for me. I look for a 10° reflectivity on a dry stone. That seems to fill my needs.

Makes sense, but how did you flatten the shoubudani the first time?

I was thinking of using some loose powder that is not very hard(no sic,maybe
aluoxide?) so it flattens the stone, but without risk of getting stuck in the
natural stone.

Sharpman
06-29-2011, 01:53 PM
BanjoTom

"How did you flatten the shoubudani the first time?" I didn't. JimR had used this stone to test it and the heavy work was already done. That is why I bought the stone from JimR. I knew that Jnats are all different and that it would take a boatload of effort to prepare an unused stone. Somewhere on this site I read that it was recommended to try a stone b/4 it was purchased. I felt the next best thing was to get the opinion of someone I trusted and that is why I turned to Jim.
06-29-2011, 01:55 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpMan

Thanks for the reply Stefan.

Have you seen the new DMT XXC plate?

Sharpman

the larger size? yes I might get it some day when my current one is worn off.
06-29-2011, 02:02 PM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

the larger size? yes I might get it some day when my current one is worn off.

Yes this one is larger size, but I don't think it is the
one you mean. This one is called Diaflat, which is 10 by 4 inches.
Is hand certified flat and has a new coating technology,
hardcoat.

YouTube - ‪Dia-Flat Lapping Plate.wmv‬&rlm;
About 170-180 USD

Sharpman
06-29-2011, 02:11 PM
mainaman

yes that is the one I am talking about too
06-29-2011, 03:23 PM
zib

Shoubudani Asagi kan.....What does "Kan" mean, other than, "The Wrath of Khan" The bad guy from the Star Trek movie......"Khan"!!!!!!!!!!

I did my Shoobie Doobie with the DMT XX, then a worn DMT C, and I finished up with some wet sandpaper, and took it to 1000k, It has a sparkly glass like surface...
Awesome Stone, That and the Ozuku....I use mine with Nagura up to Koma, and finish with Tomonagura.
06-29-2011, 03:30 PM
mainaman

Quote:

Originally Posted by zib

Shoubudani Asagi kan.....What does "Kan" mean, other than, "The Wrath of Khan" The bad guy from the Star Trek movie......"Khan"!!!!!!!!!!

I did my Shoobie Doobie with the DMT XX, then a worn DMT C, and I finished up with some wet sandpaper, and took it to 1000k, It has a sparkly glass like surface...
Awesome Stone, That and the Ozuku....I use mine with Nagura up to Koma, and finish with Tomonagura.

it is the circular figuring
06-29-2011, 03:37 PM
zib

Does the circular figuring somehow increase the stones finishing power, or is it just Aesthetically pleasing to the eye....Or is it a "Zen" thing....
06-29-2011, 03:46 PM
maxim207

Zen thing :)
no its just for looks
and increase value of the stones somtimes
06-29-2011, 04:00 PM
deighaingeal

It seems like a lot of the info in this thread would be beneficial in a separate thread specifically on the processes so it would be easier to find for someone who just got their first japanese stone.

Very nice stone, I'm sure that you'll enjoy it.
06-29-2011, 05:20 PM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by mainaman

It is hard to find a really top notch stone that is perfect aesthetically for little money, they are too rare to be cheap.
A cheaper alternative would be koppa size.

Yeah I understand. Maybe Maxim will find something, but I doubt
it. Perhaps in the future.

Sharpman
06-30-2011, 03:04 AM
onimaru55

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpMan

How do you flatten your natural stones, those that are very hard? I read some
can kill a diamond plate even. I tried flattening one with sic paper, but noticed
the some of the sick grit that came loose from the paper would get stuck in the natural stone. I could see little black dots in my natural stone.

Sharpman

So you're sure the black dots aren't part of the stone ? If you look under magnification some stones have brownish or blackish dots on them called "goma" they aid cutting strength. If the dots you see are raised & shiny you have SiC particles embedded. I actually like to use SiC powders but mostly for heavy work. On wet float glass they would be the fastest most aggressive way to flatten a natural stone that I have tried. If needed you can remove a lot of stone with 40 - 80 grit & save your diamond plates. I have not experienced any particles embedding in jnats but heavy pressure may be the culprit if you do. I use various diamond plates for lapping after that as it is less messy but SiC cuts fast. Softer powders like AlOx or automotive valve grinding pastes, which are usually a mix of the 2, will work but even the SiC breaks down quickly. The slurry you build needs to be wiped off if stiction becomes a problem or sometimes adding water helps but as I said it is messy.
06-30-2011, 08:56 AM
SharpMan

Quote:

Originally Posted by onimaru55

So you're sure the black dots aren't part of the stone ? If you look under magnification some stones have brownish or blackish dots on them called "goma" they aid cutting strength. If the dots you see are raised & shiny you have SiC particles embedded. I actually like to use SiC powders but mostly for heavy work. On wet float glass they would be the fastest most aggressive way to flatten a natural stone that I have tried. If needed you can remove a lot of stone with 40 - 80 grit & save your diamond plates. I have not experienced any particles embedding in jnats but heavy pressure may be the culprit if you do. I use various diamond plates for lapping after that as it is less messy but SiC cuts fast. Softer powders like AlOx or automotive valve grinding pastes, which are usually a mix of the 2, will work but even the SiC breaks down quickly. The slurry you build needs to be wiped off if stiction becomes a problem or sometimes adding water helps but as I said it is messy.

Thanks for the informative post. Yes the dots(4-5) were raised. Not sure if they were shiny.
I do think I used more force than necessary. Than I used a crappy diamond plate
to flatten more and the dots disappeared after 15-30 minutes.

I was thinking of using the AlOx to flatten the stone and at the end just use
a diamond plate so if there was any embedding the diamond plate would remove it,
make sense?I guess having a very hard stone would reduce the risk
of embedding in the stone. You think pure aluox could embed in a very hard stone?
I was thinking sic is much harder than alox, so perhaps sic or even grit that is softer
would be a better idea. Of course it would probably take longer with the softer grit.

What do you think of the idea of using 30.000grit sic or alox powder on a jnat?
check this:
YouTube - ‪knife sharpening using Maruka finishing stone with SiC slurry ( #30,000 green carborumdum)‬&rlm;

Sharpman
06-30-2011, 10:31 AM
onimaru55

Quote:

Originally Posted by SharpMan

Thanks for the informative post. Yes the dots(4-5) were raised. Not sure if they were shiny.
I do think I used more force than necessary. Than I used a crappy diamond plate
to flatten more and the dots disappeared after 15-30 minutes. That's ok. Sounds like you had some hitchhikers:)

I was thinking of using the AlOx to flatten the stone and at the end just use
a diamond plate so if there was any embedding the diamond plate would remove it,
make sense?I guess having a very hard stone would reduce the risk
of embedding in the stone. You think pure aluox could embed in a very hard stone?
I was thinking sic is much harder than alox, so perhaps sic or even grit that is softer
would be a better idea. Of course it would probably take longer with the softer grit. It's just that the grit will break down & cut less giving you mud that is hard to push a hone thru. The hone will want to stick the glass but if you use a coarse AlOx it should work ok. I really wouldn't worry about particles embedding if using a diamond plate afterwards
What do you think of the idea of using 30.000grit sic or alox powder on a jnat?
check this:
I don't see the point of putting a 30k synthetic slurry on a Jnat at end stage for razors but I haven't tried it to judge.

...........
09-12-2011, 06:38 AM
PA23-250

Personally, I don't see the point of a (expensive, rare) Jnat in the 1st place if it's only being used as a base for abrasive powders--a Spyderco UF would be perfect for that, & last I checked was under 100 USD. :)