Strange thing happened ... (regarding a hone of course@!)

Ok, so I bid on a carborundum barbers hone, supposed to be a 118S Razor hone, right?

So, it arrives today, and I open the little box that say's it's a carborundum 118S Razor Hone and instead what do I find inside? A Frictionite 00 instead!!!! I got it for under 15$ also.

The course side needs some lapping, which I'm doing as I type, but the other side is perfect.

I thought it was a good thing, instead of me getting screwed again, at least this time I came out a little bit on the better side of the deal!!

Now, someone tell me about the Frictionites please? I've read that the one side is close to 5 or 6k and the other more like 10k, any one agree, disagree, whatever??

I'm lapping it on glass with 400 grit wet or dry. Any one see a problem with this either? I was going to graduate to the 600 but at the rate its working I may not have to. The course side has a indent defect I can't figure out how it got there, but it's going to be hell getting it out.

But, if anyone has any advice or whatever for using, caring for or let me know not to use it, whatever, I'm interested in anything anyone has to tell me.

Thanks for listening!!

Mike

I know next to nothing about Barber's hones, but congratulations on beating the system this time around. Always good to see someone land on the right side of an ebay mislabelling!

James.

Very nice stone.1 of the best among barber hones.
Grit no one could tell you exact grit about any barber hones.
lap it and use it. you will love branded side.
Enjoy

if you like to read more about it find thread by name barber hones characteristics. gl

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mjhammer

Ok, so I bid on a carborundum barbers hone, supposed to be a 118S Razor hone, right?

So, it arrives today, and I open the little box that say's it's a carborundum 118S Razor Hone and instead what do I find inside? A Frictionite 00 instead!!!! I got it for under 15$ also.

The course side needs some lapping, which I'm doing as I type, but the other side is perfect.

I thought it was a good thing, instead of me getting screwed again, at least this time I came out a little bit on the better side of the deal!!

Now, someone tell me about the Frictionites please? I've read that the one side is close to 5 or 6k and the other more like 10k, any one agree, disagree, whatever??

I'm lapping it on glass with 400 grit wet or dry. Any one see a problem with this either? I was going to graduate to the 600 but at the rate its working I may not have to. The course side has a indent defect I can't figure out how it got there, but it's going to be hell getting it out.

But, if anyone has any advice or whatever for using, caring for or let me know not to use it, whatever, I'm interested in anything anyone has to tell me.

Thanks for listening!!

Mike

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl

if you like to read more about it find thread by name barber hones characteristics. gl

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This is probably the best thread on barber's hones out there.

Hi Mike,

I've got a Frictionite I bought new in Jr. High, for sharpening a reed knife. Rather than lapping down below that divot, I'd just get the hone flat and round off the divot's edges with sandpaper over a pencil eraser or something like that.

I'd lap it out to 600 or even 1000. The grit density is very high in the hone, and I imagine a checkerboard of high spots close to your final lapping grit. Each of those high spots will be very scratchy. You can probably wear them down a little against the back side of a DMT plate, or on the top of a jeweler's anvil. Or lap with a very light hand at the end; that's probably the best solution.

My Frictionite came with a little cleaning stone, which is long lost. It would rub the glaze from the Frictionite surface.

I don't really know about grit size; will defer to others. Congrats on the cool score!

If the indent is small you may not need to lap until it comes out. You may just be wasting good hone and your time. If it is smooth on the top surface, you will probably be ok.
Grant