To Hone or Pay Someone Else to Hone

About 4 months ago I decided to give straight shaving another go. I bought a shave ready razor a couple years back without realizing that it took both work and time to master, so I gave up on the thing. Anyhow, I'm back at it and am really enjoying it. Before getting back into it, I sent my razor out for a professional sharpen but after using it 4/5 times a week, and discovering I've been rolling the blade the wrong way on my strop, I'm feeling due for another sharpen (I'm feeling more of a pulling sensation while shaving). Given last time I spent about $40 all in to get a professional sharpen, I was hoping to get some advice on what I need to bring my razor back to life. I've been reading different posts but for someone with 1 razor who doesn't want to spend thousands on equipment, is there 1 particular hone anyone can recommend to fulfill my goal of getting my razor very sharp? Also, please let me know if you think I NEED anything else or will 1 paddle strop and 1 hone get me 99% of the way there? Appreciate the help!

IMHO, and from my experience, you would be best off with a few razors. One or two pro honed to use and to compare your own efforts on other razors. For honing a Norton 4/8 because it is a good workhorse hone and there is mucho documentation in the thread archives and in the SRP Wiki honing section on it. Also relatively inexpensive. With that hone you can go from dull to shave ready if you have the skill. A lapping plate, such as a DMT D8C 325 continuous plate is a great convenience but if you want to save $ sandpaper on a flat surface will serve the same purpose. Learning to hone with one razor is something that I wouldn't have been successful with. YMMV.

It's only been a very few years that there has been this explosion in honing media. Before that most of us used the Norton as our sole hone to do it all and maybe got a 12K for refinement and a 1K for real restorations. Back in the day most folks had one hone period they used to keep their razor sharp. So I agree the Norton is the way to go if that is all you want to do. Jimmy is right that you should have more than 1 razor. At least 2 so you'll always have a shave ready razor ready to go.

If your keeping to one or two razors I would stick a barbers hone and maybe a pasted felt strop. With this you should be able to keep a razor going for a considerable amount of time.

I think you have two options.

1) you're going to get something super fine that will maintain the edge for a long time without having to round it over like you might do with a crox charged strop, and send a razor off to get professionally honed only once a year or so.

2) you're going to get something to hone with that will work a dull razor as well as finish it and then maintain it.

for 1, I think you could use a c12k, but there is a bit of learning curve to using them. You could also get a balsa lap strop with crox, but that also has a learning curve, and to me is not as good as good as a super finisher hone. A high $$ venture in this area would be getting a short-length japanese hone that cuts fast with a slurry and fine with water.

For 2, I think you would want at least two hones - one that cuts relatively fast as a pre finisher and one that works as a final finisher.

I think if I'm being cheap, I could get along just fine with the chinese hone that woodcraft sells, but I need to have a diamond hone in the 325 grit range to make a slurry with it and keep it flat. It cuts fairly fast with a slurry, but it doesn't cut fine. It does a great job of polishing but cuts very slowly with water only.

I would also agree with the above that you should have several razors. I always like to keep at least two in top shape, so that if something goofy happens, when I go to shave in the morning, I can just pick up the second. Three out of my five razors were less than $20, but as a woodworker, I already had the tooling and stones available to make inexpensive razors shave ready. I think for most people who are dealing with good razors to start, you don't need to go below pre-finisher level unless you really round bevels over with a loaded strop (I don't use a loaded strop for that reason, and prefer a super-fine finish stone instead - geometry never gets out of whack).

Anyway, when you're learning to hone, that's probably a good idea, too, because you'll not get stuck with adverse experience with one razor holding you up - say if you hone and you're not getting as good of an edge as you want, and you're stuck with a razor that's pulling.

Lastly, honing is a skill builder of sorts. You might not be as good at it right off the bat as you'd like, but keep in mind that you can do it fairly cheaply (a c12 and a diamond hone should be doable for $100, and you can shave off a c12 comfortably with nothing but a bare strop or some palm stropping with good technique). Err on the side of any issues with known good hones being "the indian and not the arrow" when you're trying to figure out what you're doing.

Just to expand on why I don't think I could have learned to hone with one razor ..... Let's say I got it shave ready in a honing session .. how long would it be before I needed to hone it again ? If it was an extended period of time would I remember what I did to get it shave ready the last time I honed it ? How about developing muscle memory in terms of stroke, nuances of pressure ? I just knew that I would need a lot of practice. So more razors gave me the material to get more practice and after some months of honing many razors I did develop some skills that are ingrained now. Still learn new stuff as I continue to practice but the foundation was important. Just IME. YMMV.

Thanks for the suggestions. Sounds like I need to start looking for another razor to buy. In terms of the hone, I assume you're referring to a Norton 4000/8000 hone? If so, does anyone have any suggestions where I can buy or find something similar? Seems like everywhere I look they're out of stock. Also, does honing every 75 shaves sound about right? I tried slicing a piece of hair last night and without holding down both sides of the hair it wouldn't slice though it which is why I'm inquiring about hones/honing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

Also, does honing every 75 shaves sound about right?

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Well not to me, I'm used to shaving with freshly honed blades (honing myself) so I'm spoiled and would be hitting the hones waaaay before that... :)

Was just checking out some other posts and it sounds like someone else (no surprise) is having the same issue as me. Another member recommended a 12k grit Naniwa Super Stone. What do you think about this is my one and only, get my razor sharp hone? Seems pretty different from a 4/8k hone. Also, can anyone recommend a quality US straightrazor. Already have a Dovo so looking for something a little different, assuming they're any good!

A naniwa, or any 12k, is fine for touching up or finishing an already sharp razor. If you want something to sharpen/finish a norton 4000/8000 combo stone is more suited to the task. The 12k is icing on the cake.

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

A naniwa, or any 12k, is fine for touching up or finishing an already sharp razor. If you want something to sharpen/finish a norton 4000/8000 combo stone is more suited to the task. The 12k is icing on the cake.

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Or he could just buy all hones ever made, just like you! :p

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Originally Posted by Blix

Or he could just buy all hones ever made, just like you! :p

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Tried to stimulate the economy as much as I could but it didn't work. :shrug: I have tried many of them but sold most and now just stick with the chosera 1k for bevels, the norton 4/8 and usually an escher y/g. Occasionally a coticule or my one nakayama asagi if I'm in the mood for one of those.

I'm about to buy the 4000/8000 but one last question. On the SRD description, it mentions that "A Norton 8000 grit stone can actually be used to refresh a razor in many situations followed by either a .5 diamond spray on felt or chromium oxide spray on felt. Chromium oxide paste on linen or poly webbing will work after the 8000 Norton as well." Per my initial post, all I'm looking for is something to get my somewhat dull razor in great shaving condition, not start a sharpening business. Given I have no idea what a diamond/oxide spray is, do I need to sort/buy these things too??

Glad to hear everyone's trying to stimulate the economy. Thanks to SRP looks like I'll be doing my part too!

The norton 4000/8000 is dependable, and imo you don't really need anything higher.
Higher is the cherry on the cake, but not more. I shaved quite some time off the 8000.

As long as your razor is in good condition, a pasted paddle would suffice. A colleague of mine has a very heavy beard (the kind that produces stubble after half a day). I sold him a plain hollow ground 3 years ago, and advised him to buy a pasted paddle from Tony Miller; the kind with 3 sides paste and 1 side plain leather.

He has to touch up his razor on a weekly basis, due to his coarse beard. His razor has never needed honing. they key is to take good care of it, and not let it get too dull. If, as you say, you just want to maintain a razor, a pasted paddle is all you will ever need.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

Was just checking out some other posts and it sounds like someone else (no surprise) is having the same issue as me. Another member recommended a 12k grit Naniwa Super Stone. What do you think about this is my one and only, get my razor sharp hone? Seems pretty different from a 4/8k hone. Also, can anyone recommend a quality US straightrazor. Already have a Dovo so looking for something a little different, assuming they're any good!

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Most vintage US straight razors will be fine. Check the razor clubs to see what is in use by SRP members. The options for hones above are all good ones. The major question is selecting a hone is "What kind of honing do you want to do?". If you are just maintaining an edge that is not damaged in any way a Barber's hone or 12k Naniwa would be fine as would a pasted strop of some sort. Once you get into more than just refining an edge you get to the 4/8k hones like the Norton combo. Here is a point that will help. The finer the hone grit (12k is finer than 8k and 8k is finer than 4k) the smoother the edge will shave and the slower the hone will remove metal. Taking a dull razor or one with a rolled edge to and 8k hone will take a lot of time to get an edge. Using a 12k hone on the same damaged razor will take longer than you would accept and you will give up. The best suggestion I can offer is to send out the razor that has the rolled edge for repair and a fresh edge, learn not to damage your razor and pick up a Barber's hone of finisher of your choice. Once you notice the razor getting dull take it to the finisher before it goes too far. A Barber's hone may give you a bit more time before you need to hone the razor. If you are going to get into repairing the edge you should get more razors to practice with and a full set of hones from 1k to ~12k. If you try to sneak into honing razors by purchasing more or less than you need in grit sizes you will not be happy with the results as far as shave smoothness or time to hone is concerned. There is no way around that. Most professional razor honing is done on hones finer than 8k and may even have pasted strops mixed in. You will not get that result with an 8k hone. A 12k may get you closer to that finished edge but to repair a razor with that hone, forget it. I feel the best way to get into honing your own razors is, as noted above, to have more than one razor, start by just maintaining your edges with a fine hone. If you need to fix an edge send it out. If you want to learn how to repair edges, buy a full set of hones and another razor to learn on, preferably a good quality razor for a low price. Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

About 4 months ago I decided to give straight shaving another go. I bought a shave ready razor a couple years back without realizing that it took both work and time to master, so I gave up on the thing. Anyhow, I'm back at it and am really enjoying it. Before getting back into it, I sent my razor out for a professional sharpen but after using it 4/5 times a week, and discovering I've been rolling the blade the wrong way on my strop, I'm feeling due for another sharpen (I'm feeling more of a pulling sensation while shaving). Given last time I spent about $40 all in to get a professional sharpen, I was hoping to get some advice on what I need to bring my razor back to life. I've been reading different posts but for someone with 1 razor who doesn't want to spend thousands on equipment, is there 1 particular hone anyone can recommend to fulfill my goal of getting my razor very sharp? Also, please let me know if you think I NEED anything else or will 1 paddle strop and 1 hone get me 99% of the way there? Appreciate the help!

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There are multiple issues here. One is cost
and the other involves the learning curve.

Sending a razor out a couple times is a good investment
because it teaches you what a correctly sharpened
edge is.

Note well: you need less equipment to maintain
a razor that has been correctly sharpened.

I am a big fan of a good strop. Paddle strop or hanging
strop it does not matter. The SRD Lynn Abrams Modular Paddle
strop may be the winner because it is easy to replace the
surfaces and you can have a lot of different surfaces.
I also think that a paddle is less likely to roll the edge
in the hand of a beginner (less than two years -- stropping time).
Most SRD hanging strops can have the leather or canvas replaced
for modest cost so they are also a good value. Good canvas
or hard felt are a necessary part of the strop process.

Pasted strops are overused by many of us myself included.
A strop lightly pasted with sub micron abrasive is
gentle enough that it can be used a lot with no harm
to the razor. Caution with coarser than 1 micron paste.
A pasted strop helps a lot after honing a razor. IMO, Nothing
else puts a better final finish on an edge after honing.

That takes us to hones... Honing razors today has gotten
very possible. Modern hones like Shapton, Norton or Naniwa
products make the job easy and selection possible.

Given that the razor was shave ready recently all it needs is
a refresh. For that task I often reach for a 10k or 12k hone.
It does not take much effort.

I lap the surface of the hone lightly with a DMT leave the slurry on
the hone and each ten strokes dilute it a bit. The last
ten strokes of about 30 I use clear water... Wipe, rinse, strop
and shave test...

Once in a while more is needed and I grab a coarser hone.
I have a venerable Norton 4k/8k combo -- that is +10 years
old and there is a reason it is still called a work horse by many
of us.

There is a Naniwa Value Pack on one vendors site
with 5000, 8000 & 12000 grit stones that covers all the
grits a shaver will ever need. There is no need to get all the set
at once. As good a hone as the Naniwa 12k is the 5k and
8k may gather a lot of dust between uses...

You will need a DMT to keep them lapped flat.

On lapping flat: Over time hones will dish
and when the curve of one hone is different
from another hone they will not work well together.
By keeping hones flat transitions from grit to
grit to grit works best. By getting in a habit of lapping
a little at a time (think half the thickness of a sheet of paper)
each time you use a hone the will stay flat and
give you a light slurry to start with. The slurry can
help bridge largish grit gaps so do not blindly wash it
down the drain.

A second razor is a good thing. It can be a straight, a double
edge razor or even a tossable. Should you find the razor
too dull to shave with after "tinkering" you want a backup.
Some days I recommend the yellow handle BiC razors for
sensitive skin as a backup. They are inexpensive and sharp
enough to shave yet dull enough that you can do better honing and
stropping your own straight after some practice. They also
have a single edge so razor bumps are less of a problem.

It sounds like your present razor is working but is not up to where it was due to possibly having rolled the edge. That won't happen again since you know what you did to roll the edge and will avoid doing it in the future. My suggestion would be to give Larry at whippeddog.com a call and order a shave ready razor from him along with his balsa strop with CROX and FEOX. When the package arrives you wil have a new to you experienced razor that is shave ready. Then you can use the balsa strop on your prexent razor to see if you can get it back to shave ready with just a little work. If it doesn't work given the present state of the blade on that razor, you will be using it to help refresh the blades on your razors in the future. Then you can continue to look at finishing hones like the DMT8EE, a Naniwa 12K, or a C12. The DMT8EE will not need to be lapped whereas either the Naniwa or the C12 will need lapping. A DMT8c will lap either of them. The reason I added the C12 to this conversation is that Woodcraft has them on sale now for $20.

My humble opinion:
A Norton 4000/8000
A Shapton 16000
A DMT 325 to lap the above stones.
A strop.
2- Vintage razors ordered from the classified section on this forum.
Spend some time practicing & reading the archives in regard to the above equipment.

You are then set for the rest of your shaving career.
...until R.A.D. hits you!!

I guess it really depends on how you're going to approach the hobby?

If you're going to get a load of blades, get into restoration, offer to hone for others perhaps and really get into honing as a hobby then it's worth getting some good stones.

If you're only going to own a few blades and just touch them up now and then you'll be fine with a barber hone and pasted strop. Maybe a Norton 4/8 if you really feel the need.

One thing not mentioned is the difference in steel with respect to modern razors, ie Dovo, etc, and vintage razors like Wade & Butcher, to pick one. My limited experience points to selecting hones to suit the razor in question. My Norton 4K/8K for most Solingen razors and a coticule/BBW for softer Sheffield steel.

So, in the interest of saving a few dollars, and who doesn't want to, I'd stick with a Solingen razor for your next purchase. The American made razors like Genco, Shumate, Kinfolks, etc have steel similar in hardness to Solingen blades and would also be a good choice.

I knew after my first shave, I was going to really love shaving with a straight. So, honing was necessary, since I couldn't see affording to pay someone to hone the (CLASSIFIED INFORMATION) razors I have now and continue to acquire.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GeauxLSU

One thing not mentioned is the difference in steel with respect to modern razors, ie Dovo, etc, and vintage razors like Wade & Butcher, to pick one. My limited experience points to selecting hones to suit the razor in question. My Norton 4K/8K for most Solingen razors and a coticule/BBW for softer Sheffield steel.

So, in the interest of saving a few dollars, and who doesn't want to, I'd stick with a Solingen razor for your next purchase. The American made razors like Genco, Shumate, Kinfolks, etc have steel similar in hardness to Solingen blades and would also be a good choice.

I knew after my first shave, I was going to really love shaving with a straight. So, honing was necessary, since I couldn't see affording to pay someone to hone the (CLASSIFIED INFORMATION) razors I have now and continue to acquire.

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As correct as the above is the harder steel razors are a joy to
shave with if you can get them shave ready sharp. Modern hones
make some of these difficult razors almost easy to hone up. When
the price is right and the scales tight they are worth the effort.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by GeauxLSU

One thing not mentioned is the difference in steel with respect to modern razors, ie Dovo, etc, and vintage razors like Wade & Butcher, to pick one. My limited experience points to selecting hones to suit the razor in question. ...

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While the information you posted is correct, it is an advanced honing topic and you will find me at or near the front of that parade. From a newbie's perspective it is not something they should be worried about, especially from a limited honing perspective. Taking the grit and bonding agent of a hone into consideration to match the steel will reduce the honing time and may improve the finished edge a bit but if you are just honing a few blades or less every few months the time to cost ratio will never break even and the edge difference will not justify the cost. I have used Norton hones on Sheffield, Solingen, Swedish and US steel as well as Spanish and French with good results. The one thing I can say for sure is that the steel from each country, and for that matter each manufacturer can vary from razor to razor. The tool is only part of the equation. The way you use the tools, hones in this conversation, has just as much to do with the results, if not more. Considering the OP, a Norton combo along with a good finisher and/or pasted strop will be able to meet his needs regardless of the blades origin if he decides to start into edge restoration and move into the advanced honing topics later if he desires. If this conversation were to obtain the best possible edge in the shortest amount of time and cost were not an issue the steel to hone selection would be the way to go. This is not a criticism of your post just an attempt to keep the OP and other readers of this thread focused on need vs. cost and goal focused over best possible in all situations. It can be compared to changing your car's tires every time the road conditions change as race car teams do or leaving the all season tires on all year. I hope I didn't offend.

Minimally a barbers hone and a leather strop is enough. I agree with JimmyHAD and others about some additional equipment being better. But, a barbers hone and a leather strop will maintain shave readiness.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

About 4 months ago I decided to give straight shaving another go. I bought a shave ready razor a couple years back without realizing that it took both work and time to master, so I gave up on the thing. Anyhow, I'm back at it and am really enjoying it. Before getting back into it, I sent my razor out for a professional sharpen but after using it 4/5 times a week, and discovering I've been rolling the blade the wrong way on my strop, I'm feeling due for another sharpen (I'm feeling more of a pulling sensation while shaving). Given last time I spent about $40 all in to get a professional sharpen, I was hoping to get some advice on what I need to bring my razor back to life. I've been reading different posts but for someone with 1 razor who doesn't want to spend thousands on equipment, is there 1 particular hone anyone can recommend to fulfill my goal of getting my razor very sharp? Also, please let me know if you think I NEED anything else or will 1 paddle strop and 1 hone get me 99% of the way there? Appreciate the help!

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1. You spent way to much on honing :)
2. The Norton 4/8 will get you there you really don't need anything else..
3. To get the best edge out of any stone takes practice
4.You need another razor
5. Need and Want are miles and $$$$ apart
6. The 99% goal is dead on, it's that last 1% that we mostly all argue about :rofl2:

Many of us have said this a ton of times, because most of us started with just the Norton 4/8, but if you can't get a comfortable shave off the N8k then higher grits are not really the answer more practice is :)

There are other competing stones out there now that we have found and they will work too but none have the amount of help and info available as the steadfast Norton...

I see a lot of guys recommend a barber hone and if you have a shave ready razor that needs a touching up that will do it. The reason I always recommend the Norton 4/8 combo is because the 8k will also do it and if you need more sharpening it will do that as well. BTW, the 8k side of a norton combo does not need soaking so if that is the side you're using, say in a touch up, you needn't worry about a 15 minute soak before you can use it. Of course the 4k side does need the soaking.

I figure that while a fellow can maintain his razor with a barber hone the 4/8 combo is so much more versatile that it is far more advantageous to invest in one of those. If in the future vintage razors are acquired off of the bay or out of an antique shop, flea market, wherever , the norton will be enough to get the razors up to speed. Of course a bevel setter and a finisher would be a real plus in getting the job done but the 4/8 is all you really need at minimum.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

About 4 months ago I decided to give straight shaving another go. I bought a shave ready razor a couple years back without realizing that it took both work and time to master, so I gave up on the thing. Anyhow, I'm back at it and am really enjoying it. Before getting back into it, I sent my razor out for a professional sharpen but after using it 4/5 times a week, and discovering I've been rolling the blade the wrong way on my strop, I'm feeling due for another sharpen (I'm feeling more of a pulling sensation while shaving). Given last time I spent about $40 all in to get a professional sharpen, I was hoping to get some advice on what I need to bring my razor back to life. I've been reading different posts but for someone with 1 razor who doesn't want to spend thousands on equipment, is there 1 particular hone anyone can recommend to fulfill my goal of getting my razor very sharp? Also, please let me know if you think I NEED anything else or will 1 paddle strop and 1 hone get me 99% of the way there? Appreciate the help!

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I made a decision that if I were to keep straight razor shaving I would have to learn how to maintain the blade myself. The big confidence builder for me was getting a little $15.99 Radio Shack microscope with 100x power so I could convince myself that I did the job properly. I think somebody on this forum clued me in on the microscope.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LarryAndro

Minimally a barbers hone and a leather strop is enough. I agree with JimmyHAD and others about some additional equipment being better. But, a barbers hone and a leather strop will maintain shave readiness.

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I like this!!!! You would be amazed at what a little barber hone can do and honestly, until you can master this simple device, you should leave the other stones alone.

Undoubtedly, experience in the actual shave counts for a lot. When I started straight razor shaving, I wanted and needed every advantage I could get. I spent a lot of time learning face prep, lather heat, angles of attack, skin stretching. Part of my emphasis was on blade sharpness. It needed to be scary sharp!

As I became more experienced at shaving, a lot of these "helps" have lessened in importance. Several months ago, I realized that my blade was noticeably less than optimally sharp, but I had continued to shave with the blade in that "poor" condition. I had the time to rehone, and have good equipment. But, it just wasn't necessary to get a nice shave.

I know from many posts that my experience is a common experience. With time, we get better and better shaves, even with less than optimal edges on occasion.

All this leads me to second guessing myself on something I just said earlier. Here it is...

"Minimally a barbers hone and a leather strop is enough."

Maybe, I should say "For someone who is experienced, a barbers hone is enough..." The question in my mind now is whether a barbers hone is enough for someone just learning to shave, or do they need a better edge than the 8K can provide?

I still stand by my "barbers hone is enough", but not as steadfastly as 30 minutes ago. Hmmm...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by LarryAndro

All this leads me to second guessing myself on something I just said earlier. Here it is...

"Minimally a barbers hone and a leather strop is enough."

Maybe, I should say "For someone who is experienced, a barbers hone is enough..." The question in my mind now is whether a barbers hone is enough for someone just learning to shave, or do they need a better edge than the 8K can provide?

I still stand by my "barbers hone is enough", but not as steadfastly as 30 minutes ago. Hmmm...

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Actually everyone is right, the only difference is that a Barber's Hone is "designed" to maintain a "Shave Ready" razor where the Norton (or comparable) will create and maintain a "Shave Ready" razor

I think the actual saying is "It is much easier to keep a knife sharp than to sharpen a knife" (unk)

*Yes I know many of us can create a "Shave Ready razor using a Barber's Hone but that is not a newbie thing :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

About 4 months ago I decided to give straight shaving another go. I bought a shave ready razor a couple years back without realizing that it took both work and time to master, so I gave up on the thing. Anyhow, I'm back at it and am really enjoying it. Before getting back into it, I sent my razor out for a professional sharpen but after using it 4/5 times a week, and discovering I've been rolling the blade the wrong way on my strop, I'm feeling due for another sharpen (I'm feeling more of a pulling sensation while shaving). Given last time I spent about $40 all in to get a professional sharpen, I was hoping to get some advice on what I need to bring my razor back to life. I've been reading different posts but for someone with 1 razor who doesn't want to spend thousands on equipment, is there 1 particular hone anyone can recommend to fulfill my goal of getting my razor very sharp? Also, please let me know if you think I NEED anything else or will 1 paddle strop and 1 hone get me 99% of the way there? Appreciate the help!

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If you don't hone your own razors you are missing out on all the fun. It is challenge but very rewarding.

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Originally Posted by thebigspendur

It's only been a very few years that there has been this explosion in honing media. Before that most of us used the Norton as our sole hone to do it all .

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_________________________________________________

This a very true statement. I started in 1968 with a Carborundum 118S and a 3 Line Swaty and that's it. It wasn't until three years ago that I discovered SRP and improved my honing skills little by little since then. Today I have thirty hones, twenty strops and about 150 razors and my edges have improved 100 fold.

The point is that if you are just starting out today, you have many more options than I had 43 years ago. Congratulations and good luck.

Jerry

I just received my Naniwa Value Pack - 5000, 8000 & 12000 Grit Stones which I bought from SRD. Go big or go home! Still plan on watching a couple more youtube videos on proper honing technique before giving it a shot, but thanks all for the comments/suggestions!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

I just received my Naniwa Value Pack - 5000, 8000 & 12000 Grit Stones which I bought from SRD. Go big or go home! Still plan on watching a couple more youtube videos on proper honing technique before giving it a shot, but thanks all for the comments/suggestions!

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This may be the best kit out there today.
You do want something to keep them flat.

A sheet of 3M wet dry paper on a flat
stone tile is all you need to start. You
are only going to lap off a little bit. If you
think half of a sheet of paper you are good.

Do take advantage of the free slurry that
light lapping gives you. Use it for the first
1/3 of the hone strokes. Dilute for the second
1/3 and rinse clean for the final 1/3.

The Naniwa 12K is a superior hone...
While not alone it is in the hunt....

You will have fun...

The 5k/8k will let you hone
with the pyramid method and
the 12k is gravy and makes for
a fine touch up hone all by
itself.

Thanks. I should have mentinoned this in my previous post but I also went with a Naniwa Lapping Plate 220 Grit. Given I'm still a rookie I'm not entirely sure what most of your third and last paragraph mean, but if you have any youtube/other video recommendations I'd appreciate it. I also reached out to Larry from whippeddog who's going to send me some razors to hone and will give me feedback. Hope to be a pro in no time

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Straightrazzin

....will 1 paddle strop and 1 hone get me 99% of the way there? ....

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:rock:Congrats to your 3 stones, great choice, great price, now your on your way. All you need now are some old razors to practise.
And maybe a 1 K to set the bevel...oh and how about an original vintage Escher for the ultimate kick in sharpness?
And better get some more Razors to keep on practising.
Ever thought of a Jnat by the way?

:hmmm:Do I see first symptoms of HAD and RAD?
Never mind, :)

We live in the age of information and sometimes we're overwhelmed with the amount we get. Its difficult to sort it all out. I would suggest you just settle in with your razors for a bit and learn to shave with them and keep them up on a day to day basis with stropping and such. While you're doing that look around here and the rest of the internet and look at a few of the videos on honing. Ask the guy that hones your razors about it. Who knows, for a few bucks he may be willing to teach you. I hone my own but learning was a long process and being somewhat self taught I made mistakes. My personal opinion is, eventually learn to hone your own. That way you know its done correctly and to your liking and if its not, there's no one to blame but you. Once you really get into this and mark my words you will, you'll save a bundle on honing costs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mrsell63

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This a very true statement. I started in 1968 with a Carborundum 118S and a 3 Line Swaty and that's it. It wasn't until three years ago that I discovered SRP and improved my honing skills little by little since then. Today I have thirty hones, twenty strops and about 150 razors and my edges have improved 100 fold.

The point is that if you are just starting out today, you have many more options than I had 43 years ago. Congratulations and good luck.

Jerry

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Where do you hide all those hones from the better half????? Us newbies need to learn.

I starting to like my vintage good quaility oil stones alot more then any
waterstone i have.
The only water stones i would ever add to my stuff now is the super fine natural
water stones.
The only flaw vintage oil stones have is after every use i wash the oil and metal off.
with warm water soap and a sponge.