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I am about to drop a chunck on a new low grit for repairs, and a new 1k for bevel setting.
I have looked at the Naniwa 220's and 1k's, and I am really leaning towards them.
I also am looking at the Norton 220/1k combo stone. I know I will come out less money getting the Norton, tight budget and all, but will I be any less pleased?
If any of you can offer some clarity I would greatly appreciate it.
Jon
It seems that all I do lately is repair small chips and set new bevels with the local antique finds. I had my choice and went with Norton 220/1000. It's my best buy yet.
Maybe the volume of blades is a large factor. If you already had a DMT 325 or similar for working the chips, the chosera 1k has lived up to its hype. 'Very nice rock to work with.
I have the Norton 1000 and the 220. The 1000 is great for setting new bevels, working out nicks and so on. It's a great stone to have.
The 220 does cut more aggressively but I really don't like it because it dishes out VERY quickly, which can end up shaping the blade in ways you didn't want.
I discovered, from restoring chisels and knives, that if you need to do some serious metal removal or shaping it's best to use 80 or at least 120 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper on a flat surface. Just attach it with spray adhesive.
Sandpaper does not dish out with use, is very cheap, and is easy to control how much metal you remove.
Just make sure you use aluminum oxide. The other types don't work well with metal.
So, I would recommend the Norton 1000 and a pack of sand paper.
I think I am going to go with the naniwa 1k and a DMT 325. I need the DMT for a lapping plate on my coticule and for the 1k, and I will work out any chips on it as well. Sound like a good plan?
Thanks.
Jon
They will both do the job. Nortons are more abrasive so be careful. The DMT 325 is way abrasive, especially new. I normally only lap my coticules once unless I dish them out with rubbing stones.
Have fun.
^^^^^^^^^^^ see the aboveQuote:
Originally Posted by Lynn
Well I should be set for honing. Have the naniwa 1k and the DMT 325 on order from SRD.
That makes a stone for repairs, a bevel setter, and a coticule for refinement and polishing.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions everyone!
Jon
Even though you are all set, I'd just like to chime in with my two cents.
For extreme edge restoration i.e. taking out severe chipping I got myself a coarse cheapo combination stone of undetermined grit from a local hardware store for about $6. It's not pretty, but neither are the blades I use it on and it does the job.
+1 on the one time lapping of coticules, just to make sure they're flat. To effectively dish them out you'd have to hone an insane amount of razors daily, I reckon, even when using a slurry stone.
Thanks Pith!
Jon
I keep a king 220/1000 around for knife sharpening and razor repairs. Inexpensive, readily available, loads with water quickly, and versatile.