Splitting stones (instead of hairs)

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I just picked up what I believe to be a Thurry, and while lapping it, noticed that it is starting to split! If it were a clean split, I would help it along, and have 2 slightly thinner stones, but this is working upward at an angle (toward the flat surface) , and if it breaks, it will devastate this stones usefulness.

when I squeeze the end, water (from the lapping) is displaced as the gap closes. when I release it, it springs open again. (only a fraction of an inch, but noticeable)

Do any of you have any "feedback" (bad hone pun) on how to stabilize the split? Glue and clamp? injection of resin with no clamp?

Halp!

(feel free to tell me its not a thurry and I can just toss it and not be worried) Attachment 85035Attachment 85036

I'd fill it with epoxy, and clamping is up to you. If you get it nice and full, I don't think the clamp would be necessary. And as far as whether or not it's a thuringian, well, try a razor on it. If you get good results, then that's the most important part. Much more important than the name IMHO. Just call it Magpie's hone. It'll be a one of a kind.

I once glued two stones together to make a combo with Loctite Professional epoxy. Later I wanted to separate the two and soaked them for over a week with no reduction in the bond. Randy suggested the oven @ 600 degrees for an hour. I was able to break the two loose from each other with that but had to use a chisel in the seam to get them apart right out of the oven. Anyway, other epoxies may work as well, but that stuff sticks like..... like glue. ;)

my concern is that if I clamp, the stone might be stressed, and crack at the stress/fulcrum point. But if I DONT clamp, how can I be sure the entire gap is filled so there are no weak spots? Some glues need an abscence of air to cure properly. some are fine in air. Damn it Jim, I'm a wino, not a stone mason!

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Originally Posted by Magpie

my concern is that if I clamp, the stone might be stressed, and crack at the stress/fulcrum point. But if I DONT clamp, how can I be sure the entire gap is filled so there are no weak spots? Some glues need an abscence of air to cure properly. some are fine in air. Damn it Jim, I'm a wino, not a stone mason!

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Epoxie does not care either way and will totaly cure and has tremendous filling capabilities. I have laminated bad fit stones before and no way are they coming apart. Work in with flexible index card or similar material to minimize air pockets for best bond.

I clamped the stones I glued tightly. Not the same situation as yours but saying that to say, as Mike noted above, no air didn't prevent the epoxies from bonding solid as ....... as a rock. :D

One small tip for getting adhesives into cracks or splits, cut a strip of plastic from an ice cream or margarine container or any thin flexible plastic would do, and punch holes in the strip, use this to work the adhesive in, the holes act as small reservoirs for the adhesive/epoxy, which then get deposited on the sides of the crack more efficiently.

Another optin for you could be to use pine pitch. It is waterproof and if you want to repossition the parts just gently heat it up and pull it apart.

It also a matter of how deep the crack goes and what is causing it. Often times when a rock cracks there is little to stop it. In the real world they use concrete and bolts and wire mesh and all kinds of things. You need something thin enough to get all the way down to the base of the crack if there is any chance to stabilize it.

Hobby stores have super glue in various viscosity's, maybe that would work. The thinnest two would probably flow to the base of the crack

I would just wrap it in tissue paper (about 2 or 3 is fine) all around and lacquer it. The Japanese do it with their stones and it works perfectly fine.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Magpie

my concern is that if I clamp, the stone might be stressed, and crack at the stress/fulcrum point. But if I DONT clamp, how can I be sure the entire gap is filled so there are no weak spots? Some glues need an abscence of air to cure properly. some are fine in air. Damn it Jim, I'm a wino, not a stone mason!

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it's possible that matter and anti-matter are forcing the stone apart, get in there with a magnetic probe and be prepared to use some dilithium epoxy.

I never typed the word "dilithium" before.... doesn't look right.

i would use epoxy to fill the crack. and i wouldnt clamp the stone it will put more stress on the stone

my suspicion is that the stone was dropped and the edge strike started the split. I am going to pick up a few small epoxy/superglue types, and try applying it to some shale stone I have lazing around. If it works, I will go with the best version of that. if it does NOT work, I will go with the lacquer. I suspect lacquer applied repeatedly will fill the crack in stages, even though it would not be as strong as an epoxy.

Most epoxies would be too thick. Superglue might be your best bet unless you can find a real thin epoxy that will wick into the crack.

Sounds like it would have been better if the stone would have cracked all the way into two pieces so you could epoxy both halves and then lightly clamp it back together to form one unbroken stone.

Jerry
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Originally Posted by mrsell63

Sounds like it would have been better if the stone would have cracked all the way into two pieces so you could epoxy both halves and then lightly clamp it back together to form one unbroken stone.

Jerry
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Jerry, good point.
We all have lapping plates, if the stone split in two you could lap both pieces to be joined perfectly flat and then epoxy them together. That is assuming they split somewhat even. alx