Curve on a norton set of stones. Maybe.

I just got a set of Norton Wet Stones (220/1k combo, and 4k/8/ combo) in the mail a few days ago and started experimenting with them and noticed that at the corners of the 220/1k stone do not touch when the other stone is layed (ever so gently) on top of it. to some degree it is on both stones. What would the experienced decision be? should i send them back or is there a way to correct them my self. Or is this just a trait of the stones? I dont have any idea. I'm new to this whole experience.
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Not to mention they aren't very square. But that's just something that bothers me as a mason.

You need to lap all honing surfaces flat and chamfer the edges.

This should help: Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Wiki

Lap them flat and you are good to go, what you have is completely normal.

LOL, I just ordered exactly the same set:-)

There is a great lapping video on youtube. gssixgun Norton 4k 8k Lapping - YouTube
I little long but very helpful.

You could use sand paper and a granite tile to lap it, but I would go ahead and invest in a DMT8C. Well worth the money.

I would use the sandpaper. The DMT hones are expensive and if you only hone a few razors than I don't know if it is worth the investment. If you plan on honing alot of razors than go for it.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I think i'm in this for the long haul so i'll probably get the lapping stone. Tax time and all. (love that child tax credit)(and the kids)

Something else is there anyone in the Central Ohio area who could show me some techniques to getting more out of my hones. I have the nortons mentioned above and a neat mint Swaty barber hone i purchased several years ago when i first had interest. Didn't start then because we had kids and time and concentration weren't there. Now that i have some time i can devote to learining straight razor shaving i want to do it right.

To add a little to the conversation, the 8k side of my Norton 4/8 was almost rougher than the 4k side when I first opened it up. After a little lapping, she's as slick as glass now. The DMT-325 will pay for itself in time saved fiddling with sandpaper.

So i just neet one DMT-325 for lapping all my hones? Is that something i would want to use to chamfer the edges too? Will I also be able to use it for corrections on my Swaty? Heaven forbid it gets a chip.

Can't lap the 220 with 325, you can lap the rest. But you can use the 325 for honing instead the 220. You can chamfer the edges with it,yes, again not on the 220. So you are replacing the 220 with 325 for honing and also it becomes your lapping surface.

Also, even if you get the 120 I would not suggest to use it on the 220. You can but not recommended. Your 220 basically becomes obsolete once you get the DMT, you can lap with sandpaper and use for knives.

Why wouldn't you lap the 220 with it? is the grit difference too close?

You can of course lap the 220 with the DMT 325. Nortons comes with a quite rough outer surface that needs removing before they can be used.
A DMT 325 sure is a must have.

Lapping a coarser grit with a finer grit can cause damage to the finer grit stone.

I can't imagine a soft Norton 220 doing any damage to a DMT.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blix

I can't imagine a soft Norton 220 doing any damage to a DMT.

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You might be right... TBH - I have never tried it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blix

You can of course lap the 220 with the DMT 325. Nortons comes with a quite rough outer surface that needs removing before they can be used.
A DMT 325 sure is a must have.

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Have you done this?The reason why I am asking is because I have the same set up as OP and I purchased DMT 325 as well. I understand there is difference in grits between brands and that the DMT is much harder than the Nortons but I do not want to run the risk of wearing the DMT much faster than what it is supposed to for a hone that is pretty much no longer needed after I purchased the DMT. Thanks.

What about a 4 stone set of 8" Dia Sharps? would that be a good set to have? Had i not already invested in the norton stones.

Just got my DMT 325 in the mail. Can't wait to get these pups lapped.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JazzWillie

I just got a set of Norton Wet Stones (220/1k combo, and 4k/8/ combo) in the mail a few days ago and started experimenting with them and noticed that at the corners of the 220/1k stone do not touch when the other stone is layed (ever so gently) on top of it. to some degree it is on both stones. What would the experienced decision be? should i send them back or is there a way to correct them my self. Or is this just a trait of the stones? I dont have any idea. I'm new to this whole experience.
Not to mention they aren't very square. But that's just something that bothers me as a mason.

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I noticed the same problem with my Naniwa 3000/8000 superstone. It is slightly bent upwards from the 8000k side.
I have been soaking the stone for 2 hours now and it's still bent.
While not in use, I store the stone damp in plastic bag.

Should I let the stones dry before storing them?
If I lap my stones now again, how likely will I be in situation where they have "unbent" to the original position and as I lapped them, they would be again bent?

Just got finished lapping two of the three sides of my stone set and about halfway through the 8k side of the 4k/8k combo. Was blown away by the difference in texture after they were lapped to how it feels on the sides. Thanks again to ItalianJoe for posting the vidoe by gssixgun, and gssixgun for making it. Was super helpful. Expecially the suggestion of marking grid lines on them.
Had to take a break and give the shoulder a rest.

Here's the hones after the DMT 325Attachment 91936Attachment 91937Attachment 91938Attachment 91939Attachment 91940
Not so awfull. Pointers and tips are welcome. Especially if you see something in the pictures that doesn't look right. Wont learn if I keep doing it wrong.