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I use the Norton stones for honing (I'm just starting out), but I've never used a slurry stone.
Looking around on the web, I can see coticle slurry stones, Nagura slurry stones, and the Norton slurry stone.
Can you use a natural stone like a Nagura on a Norton (synthetic) one and vice versa?
And finally, you Norton fans: what slurry stone do you use?
Thanks,
Tim
It is my understanding that Nagura and slurry stones are not needed on Nortons. Unlike natural stones, Nortons are made of compressed powdered stone of various coarseness that are made to release their substrates during use - by honing on them, they slowly release their own powder as a slurry. That is why they need to be soaked before use and watered continuously during use. This helps release its slurry. Nagura and slurry stones are used on very hard natural stones.
At the expense of being over-simplistic, Nagura act as the source of slurry on natural stone hones. You rub them on which releases their powder, not the stones. You can use a very hard nagura, ideally of the same type as your hone, to work up a slurry made from your hones material - these are called tomonagura.
Hope this helps.
I just use the slurry created by my DMT325 (ala gssixgun) - it works for me.
I bought a DMT after seeing some of the more experienced users recommend them. Great buy, those things work wonders. I also saw Glen mention in another thread he has used a slurry stone or nagura with a Norton, so I may be wrong on my reply. The way a norton rep told me, they need no extra stone - but these were made for tools like chisels. Perhaps for a razor a slurry can be brought up with something, and a DMT sounds best for this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Havachat45
Really there is no 'right' or 'wrong' - just what works or doesn't work for you.
Take a look at gssixguns videos on YouTube and see how Glen does it - you'll learn heaps
When I want to keep my norton 8k from loading quickly as they often do I use a soft kiita tomonagura and it works great. No reason at all why naguras would not be compatible with nortons.
This is an older thread on slurries but still many good tricks in there, we have learned even more tricks since that thread ...
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...rt-slurry.html
Wow Glenn, totaly forgot about that stellar thread. for fun, I have tried slurries on arkies to good effect. I use them mostly for other stuff, but I can definitly see possibilities and a seperate learning curve for effective razor work.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Lately I have been using my Escher rubbing stone on my PHIG. Results are consistently positive. The PHIG will do a nice edge in 25 to 50 passes but with the slurry from the Thuri that is cut in half. It seems the slurried PHIG is somewhat smoother to my face as well. I haven't done it often enough yet to be certain it is just the slurry but I can't help but cogitate:hmmm: upon the effect of a slurry from a great finisher on a substrate like the PHIG. Could make an Escher last forever if I cut it up into rubber stones.:thinking::idea:
It’s really not that complicated. Normally you use the same kind of stone to produce slurry, as the hone. The slurry is basically small mud from the stone containing small quartz crystals, or garnets.
The Coticule is only compatible with another Coticule, because the stones polishing effect comes from small garnets, unlike all other stones where it comes from quartz. And Escher stone used on a Coticule won’t work because their honing/ polishing effect isn’t compatible.
Otherwise you are good to mix stones and grit.
If a polishing stone becomes “dull” you can bring it to life again using a lower grid-stone to relap it.
The slurry works the same way, low-grid-slurry produces faster honing capabilities.
Just experiment, if it doesn’t work, you just clean the stones with water again.
I use a Chinese 12K as a rubber stone sometimes, or just to clean the hones. Works fine.
When you buy hones from reliably dealers, they will often supply a slurry stone with the hones.
The better you master the slurry, the more easy the honing will become.Happy Honing!
To answer the OP's questions, You really don't need a slurry stone with the Norton's, or any synthetic hone for that matter. Some, like the Chosera provide a small hone for cleaning. Mine is a paperweight basically. I do the same as Gssixgun in his honing video's. I use a well worn dmt325. It's well worn from lapping hundreds of stones. A few figure 8's on the hone I'm using and your good to to. Two things: It provides cutting slurry, and helps keep your hones flat.
As far a Natural's go. Anything goes, really. You can experiment all you want. You can on Synthetics too, I just don't. There are no rules. Most guys that are proficient at using Jnats, for exapmple, use a variety of slurry stones or Naguras, and Tomonagura. With Jnats, Tomonagura, "A small piece of the same stone" is supposed to be crucial in the finishing process. I don't know about that either. Sometimes, in lieu of a tomonagura, an Atoma1200 plate can be use, or a Dmt, again well worn. You don't want to scratch the surface of those highly polished finishers.
Once you've got a good handle on the basics: setting a bevel, sharpening and finishing, you can experiment with your slurries. Nothing's set in stone......
Like "Jaswarb" said, he uses his Escher slurry on a phig, that's fine. You can use a C12k or Phig slurry stone on an Escher, or a Thuringian, if you don't have an Escher slurry.
Happy Honing....
Maybe this is addressed in the slury thread linked earlier, but here it is... You can raise a slurry on any grit of any stone to increase its cutting speed. Unless you work your way down through dilutions of that slurry, though, you'll reduce the maximum keeness you can get from that hone. This is because your edge is not only being abraded along the bevel side, as it would on a dry hone, but it is also colliding edge-on with the particles suspended in the slurry. The dilutions gradually take you back to the abrasion-only action of the unslurried hone, and to that hone's max keenness.
With some Jnats, the slurry breaks down with use, so you hone on finer and finer grit as you go. I do not know if you dilute on those hones.
Thanks for all your replies, folks. I think I'm going to enjoy this hobby!
I hope this isn't a silly question. Is a prep stone the same as a slurry stone ?
Only willful ignorance is silly.
Yes, more or less, a prep stone is the same as a slurry stone. It gets complicated when you get into the Jnats, where you might use a prep stone that isn't the same as your hone, because you want a different mix of grits at work. Generally, slurry stones are of the same type as the hone you're raising slurry on. Some are definitely incompatible; for example, you wouldn't mix a coticule slurry on a slate hone because the cutting crystals have such different shapes.
You can use something completely neutral, like a DMT plate or wallet card, to raise a slurry on anything. You want a well-worn plate or the diamonds can scratch up your hone pretty bad. My travel hone is a slender combo coticule bout, and I carry a little DMT keychain hone to raise a slurry on it.
Original-stock Frictionite00s came with a little rubstone whose purpose was to deglaze the hone surface if you loaded it with swarf from honing dry. I don't think you'd call that a prepstone.
Hope this clarifies for you. Best wishes.