Just asking , With a 12,000 finishing Stone do I need to make slurry to put the last & Final edge to the blade ? Its the first time I use this so help please? or yes Im using a Welsh hone stone with WD 40
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Just asking , With a 12,000 finishing Stone do I need to make slurry to put the last & Final edge to the blade ? Its the first time I use this so help please? or yes Im using a Welsh hone stone with WD 40
Oil with slurry doesn't go well. Or I think so. Haven't tried it. Haven't hear it, looses its purpose. With water, well, yes. For one stone honing, check the one stone honing videos. Slurry drops (a little) the grit a stone cuts and increases its speed considerably. There are few Welsh stones over 10k, don't take as granted the estimated grit from the sellers.
I'm new to honing, but for the final finish I never use slurry. I may use a slurry on the finish hone, but never for the finish strokes. I feel that the finest polish comes from a wetted stone that is clean.
yea slurry makes the stone more aggressive and works faster. For a final finish I wouldn't use slurry. It also makes a difference on the type of hone. I never use any slurry on synthetics only naturals.
Yes, you are right, I thought the question was about the use of slurry on honing generally. For final finishing, no, you don't need it. Clear water or even better the thin oil you use. But you should use all three methods at least once on different shaves and choose what works best for you, and to know better your stone and razor. As long as it's not uncomfortable.
Ok I think some of you read it wrong, I know you Slurry on the first stages of honing, But if you see what i wrote I was asking about the last, which would be on a 12,000 or higher stone. I didnt think you use slurry on the last stone 12,000 ,but I wanted to be 100% sure.
I think the confusion may be due to '12,000 grit or higher stone'. Grit ratings are for synthetic stones and whilst I don't own any high grit synthetics most don't seem to use slurry on them.
I do have one of the Welsh slates which was sold as being around 12,000 grit. I use slurry & water on this and dilute down to water for the finish. I have used it with oil, not wd40, I don't use oil & slurry.
After some passes on the Norton 8k, I use the Chinese natural stone for finishing.
The first 20 passes are with slur made from the blue part of the Belgian.
Then 25 passes with slur made from the yellow part of the Belgian.
Then 25 passes with slur made with the small piece of the Chinese stone which usually comes together with the Chinese when you buy it.
And finally, the last 30 passes on the Chinese stone without any slur, just water.
It works fine for me.
Why not use slurry on a finisher? People talk about slurries on eschers etc all the time. If i'm finishing on my natural i tend to use a more dilucot method on it. Moving from the 12k naniwa to a welsh slate finisher i'll make a light slurry and dilute to the point that i finish it on just water and have had excellent results.
I would not suggest NOT to make a slurry...I would suggest trying it both ways and see what works.
I used to spend a lot of time on my finisher starting with a slurry and doing 20 circles, 20 passes and thinning the slurry to water.
More recently, I have started producing much better edges off the 8K and as a result I spend very little time on the finisher. My next honing will likely involve coming from the 8K and going to my finisher for ~5 passes without slurry to test the result.
I am not sure there is a right answer here....just the one that is right for the user;)
Slurry to remove metal, it's fresh abrasive.
No slurry to refine the edge.
Your choice. If you get an edge you're comfortable shaving with using light slurry, then you can finish that way, but you'll find that a lot of stones have abrasive particles too large to do that as easily as you can just polish the edge on clear water and get a very keen feel.
See the pictures from the wiki for a couple of stones where a slurry and no slurry comparison is done, especially with the chinese and coticule stones:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi..._various_hones
On Most Finishers I use I start with a light slurry to train the edge to the stone then dilute out to clear water, so pretty much the same here..
@WCD, I use my WHIGs the same way very light slurry about 20 Pigtail laps with that slurry then dilute out to clear water with X strokes that get lighter and lighter until I have clear water.. But I would never call them 12k stones and I would never use "Oil" on them other then "Smith's honing solution" :p
Just to be very technical, which we are kinda doing here
Stones and the slurry they produce are quite different, there really is no one size fits all..
Finishers with light slurry to water has nothing to do with the dulicot or unicot method of honing, that method was introduced in 2009 the slurry to water techinique has been around since the stones were used..
Not all slurry is a "cutting" slurry
Now that glen has spoken and corrected all our misconceptions, we can all shut up! :bow
I do a quick lapping, about 5-8 back and forth or figure 8's then work that and dilute to clear water, some nice perfect x strokes to finish when the stone is just barely wet and done.
Glen, I guess when it comes down to it, we all have different beards and different skin and different steel. Once you figure out a combination that is comfortable, usually through trial and error, you should go with that! Then buy an ebay special and practice with new methods that intrigue you; you never know when you'll find something you like better. In the past I have found myself, and still find others, asking for the 'answer' to their questions. There really is NO magical razor used on a magical finisher with a magical technique that will work magic for everybody!
Short answer: Final passes on natural stones are just water, no slurry.
Chinese 12k with slurry works much faster than on water and the result is almost the same in shaving quality. But as some of the guys said, different stones produce different slurries...
On the water stones like the Norton, Naniwa Super Stone, Shapton Glass or even Naniwa Chosera which come with slurry stones, I have not found any benefit in either time or effectiveness from using or generating a slurry when honing on these including the their finishing stones. As far as Natural stones, that is another question and for me, it really depends on the stones. I get pretty good results on the Coticule and the LM and sometimes on a couple of my Japanese naturals going from light slurry to water when finishing. On my Escher and Charnley, I just use water on the Escher and oil on the Charnley. When using the one stone method on the Naturals, I can use either a DMT, generic nagura or the 3 set japanese naguras to build a heavy slurry and then dilute along the process to water eventually.
I think you really have to play around with this whole theme though and determine what works best for you which has pretty much been said by a few here already.
Have fun.
Just to clarify. You use WD40 on the hone and asking about use of slurry? As a lot of people answerred the question in diferent situation- use of water I am wondering. How would you guys dilute the slurry to the clean- no slurry finish? bMore WD 40?
Jock try it. perhaps then you will get the question.
I was under the impression that your question was a joke..
Yer As i said , I didnt think you should use Slurry on the final 12k stone, but being new I wanted to be sure I was doing the right thing. Cheers guys