Lapping new Naniwa 12K stone

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11-10-2012, 11:30 PM
matloffm

Lapping new Naniwa 12K stone

I apologize in advance for the newbie question. I just acquired a Naniwa lapping stone and a 12K super stone. I saw what looks like instructions for using the lapping stone on the box that showed something from a small bottle (does not look like water) being poured onto the stone to be lapped. As all is written in Japanese, I have no idea what this might be. In the videos, all that is used for lapping on a water stone is water. Is something else required for the 12K super stone, or should I just proceed with water?

Thanks for you reply.
11-11-2012, 12:15 AM
unit

Lapping new Naniwa 12K stone

Use water.
11-11-2012, 12:40 AM
henryconchile

As unit mentioned, you only need to use water.

That picture you saw is explained here. The substance poured onto the stone is silicon carbide powder, which helps speed up the lapping process. Naniwa lapping stones are made of silicon carbide, so the powder helps, but is optional.
11-11-2012, 04:41 PM
unit

Lapping new Naniwa 12K stone

Interesting.

I lapped mine with an old DMT 320 and tap water. It took about 5 minutes and I only needed to remove a tiny bit. It came much flatter than the Nortons I have seen.

In truth, I probably removed more than really necessary in effort to get one corner that dipped slightly (perhaps 0.25 mm?)...I could have simply marked it and just avoided that corner.
11-11-2012, 05:51 PM
Mvcrash

When I lap stones I place them in a sink and let water run over the stone and whatever I am lapping with, usually a DMT. I also use the running water with a glass plate and sand paper. The running water keeps things lubricated and clean. Just my way.
11-11-2012, 08:59 PM
Ryan82

Quote:

Originally Posted by unit

Interesting.

I lapped mine with an old DMT 320 and tap water. It took about 5 minutes and I only needed to remove a tiny bit. It came much flatter than the Nortons I have seen.

In truth, I probably removed more than really necessary in effort to get one corner that dipped slightly (perhaps 0.25 mm?)...I could have simply marked it and just avoided that corner.

By contrast, mine was severely high in the centre and took quite quite a bit longer than 5 minutes IIRC. I also had a corner that dipped, but I left it. It wasn't worth lapping off another 1/32" off the entire hone just to flatten a useless corner spot that is less than the size of half a dime.
11-12-2012, 12:12 AM
matloffm

Thanks to everyone for their replies. Now I am off to give it a go. :D
11-12-2012, 02:23 AM
sixsixty

On topic question. So I have a new Naniwa 12k and a D8C. When I used the D8C to lap the Naniwa, either running under water or in a bin with water, the D8C just sticks to the Naniwa and makes it really tough to lap (and pull apart). This doesn't happen when I lap any of my Norton stones. Any advice on how to lap the Naniwa?
11-12-2012, 02:37 AM
SirStropalot

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ryan82

By contrast, mine was severely high in the centre and took quite quite a bit longer than 5 minutes IIRC. I also had a corner that dipped, but I left it. It wasn't worth lapping off another 1/32" off the entire hone just to flatten a useless corner spot that is less than the size of half a dime.

Ryan,
I had the same issue with my Naniwa's, and others. All high in the center, and as you say, severely. After completing my Shapton set I tried the Shapton DGLP, very precise for flatness. When I used it, all of the hones I had lapped with the DMT 8C 325 previously were now all high on the ends. Turns out it was the DMT that was high in the center. Got a new one and it's the same, but not quite as bad. You might want to check your DMT for flatness. It didn't seem to affect the edges of the razors I honed on them, but it sure played heck with lapping.

Regards,
Howard. :)
11-12-2012, 02:52 AM
SirStropalot

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixsixty

On topic question. So I have a new Naniwa 12k and a D8C. When I used the D8C to lap the Naniwa, either running under water or in a bin with water, the D8C just sticks to the Naniwa and makes it really tough to lap (and pull apart). This doesn't happen when I lap any of my Norton stones. Any advice on how to lap the Naniwa?

sixsixty,

The higher grit hones, and especially the Naniwa's are more dense, and smooth. This causes the DMT to suction down when it seals itself with slurry. Slide it to the side to get it loose, or slide slightly to the side and add water to the surface and then slide it back onto the water and it will loosen some. Figure 8's and keep fresh water on it. Good Luck!!

Regards,
Howard :)
05-07-2013, 08:53 PM
traps38

Quote:

Originally Posted by SirStropalot

sixsixty,

The higher grit hones, and especially the Naniwa's are more dense, and smooth. This causes the DMT to suction down when it seals itself with slurry. Slide it to the side to get it loose, or slide slightly to the side and add water to the surface and then slide it back onto the water and it will loosen some. Figure 8's and keep fresh water on it. Good Luck!!

Regards,
Howard :)

I also just received my Naniwa 12k today and man am i glad i bought it.

Had that same problem of it sucking to my Dmt all the time so i was always moving it to the side with water to remove it.

It took about 5 minutes to lap it and then i took one of my restored razors that i thought was giving me a pretty good shave as i had finished it with a chinese 12k.

Now i don't no if it is psychological after seeing how everyone praises this stone as a great finisher but i got such an unbelievable shave, that it freaked me out.

As soon as i lapped it i did 50 strokes(maybe a lot as i do a lot more than that on my Chinese12k.)

Took a shower and proceeded with the shave.

I did 3 passes and no AGAINST THE GRAIN and got a BBS shave everywhere except a couple of spots under my neck.

I am always trying to improve my shave and this did it for me.

Now i have to finish off my other razors and see if this was just luck or this Nani 12k is that awesome as everyone says.

Thanks for the great info guys.
05-07-2013, 09:14 PM
kwlfca

I just got mine today too. My first hone woo
Lapped it with 320 grit mastercraft wet dry sandpaper on a big thick glass plate/tabletop. Left it kind of coarse but I just rubbed it smooth with my dark blue escher slurry stone.
05-13-2013, 09:59 AM
ElDoctor

The nani is a great stone, splash and go, but it will need to be lapped almost for every razor. It gets glazed and when lapping it you will notice hign and low spots on it.

I use a DMT325 and never had any problems, I lap under running water, helps the sticking but does not eliminate it.
05-13-2013, 04:04 PM
Scotsman

Guys I'm new to straight razor shaving and bought a Norton4000/8000 which I'm getting on great with. All this praise for the nani 12k is it worth me buying one? or should I just for the time being go with the Norton?
05-13-2013, 06:20 PM
traps38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scotsman

Guys I'm new to straight razor shaving and bought a Norton4000/8000 which I'm getting on great with. All this praise for the nani 12k is it worth me buying one? or should I just for the time being go with the Norton?

In my little experience now with straight shaving i would say master the Norton 4/8 k but in the meantime keep your eyes open for a good deal on a Nani 12k as it is just an amazing finisher as everyone recommended to me also.

I have found after you shave great with your setup the Nani 12k will just bring you to another great level.

For me it was almost night and day after i finished on this stone.

It just took me a little while to get it as it was a little pricy for me.

If i had known it was that great i would have bought it sooner but it gave me time to learn on my Norton 4/8k.

Hope this helps.
05-19-2013, 02:52 AM
RoyalCake

I just literally started honing for the first time, so take this FWIW, but it's consistent with another thread here on lapping Naniwa stones http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...-not-flat.html. I took out a new 12k today and was going to lap with a new Naniwa lapping stone. But having read the thread I decided to check. Good thing cause the lapping plate was out way more than the 12k stone.
I do machine work and have a precision granite inspection table, so I put the lapping plate on with wet/dry paper and saw the high spots. I didn't have coarse enough paper to bring it down in a timely manner so I drew a grid on the 12k and put it on the paper, didn't take a but a few strokes to get all the marks off. But I guessed as much when I set the thing dry on the granite table and it practically stuck to it.
Didn't mean this to be end all be all but just my one experience today.
06-04-2013, 01:32 AM
kwlfca

Does anyone else have the issue with 320 grit sandpaper leaving the surface rough? I'm worried that having a rough, coarse feelings surface on a 12 will affect my honing...and would smoothing the surface with my thurry slurry stone take the freshly lapped surface out of true?

Is this rough surface normal? Why is 320 recommended for lapping if it does that?
06-04-2013, 01:36 AM
bombay

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwlfca

Does anyone else have the issue with 320 grit sandpaper leaving the surface rough? I'm worried that having a rough, coarse feelings surface on a 12 will affect my honing...and would smoothing the surface with my thurry slurry stone take the freshly lapped surface out of true?

Is this rough surface normal? Why is 320 recommended for lapping if it does that?

you need to use wet/dry paper and if it is new go over it with something else to get rid of loose grit
06-04-2013, 01:44 AM
kwlfca

Quote:

Originally Posted by bombay

you need to use wet/dry paper and if it is new go over it with something else to get rid of loose grit

I used 320 Mastercraft wet dry sandpaper
06-04-2013, 02:34 AM
bombay

thats good for flattening it quick then you can use a higher grit for polishing it off
01-03-2014, 01:20 AM
supersco

I'm going to deposit my experience with a Naniwa 12K and the Norton lapping stone here. I just got both in the mail today. I've had a Norton 4K/8K for a while and am experienced at lapping it. Before I got the lapping stone I just used 320 wet/dry sandpaper on my kitchen counter. It worked well enough but I was excited to try a lapping stone as I thought it would be faster. I thought I could do the softer Naniwa in a few minutes....AN HOUR LATER I'm finally done.

First off, my Naniwa was very high in the center. It took forever to get that "bubble" out. The second I did, the whole sound of the process changed. It got louder and scratchier and swarf started building up like crazy. But that's when I hit another plateau where nothing happened for like ten minutes.

I should add, I was using the Norton lapping stone in the sink under running water as some have suggested. This worked well for the Norton 4K/8K (I lapped that one first). But I was getting tired of splashing water everywhere so I turned the tap off. After just a few figure-eights, the loud scratchy sound came back and I could feel the friction between the stones. Instantly the pencil grid on the ends started to come off. Curious, I turned the water back on and....nothing. Different sound, different feeling. I turned the tap off again and immediately felt the difference.

So in my (only) experience, while you definitely want some moisture between the 12K and the lapping stone, I got way faster progress without water running on it constantly. After just a few minutes without the running water I was almost done, but I could not get the ends of the pencil grid for the life of me. Frustrated, I pulled out the sandpaper, slapped it on the kitchen counter, and in like 30 seconds those marks came off.

Next time, I think I'll stick to the sandpaper for the Naniwa. The Norton lapping stone was just ok for the 4K/8K. Maybe I need a DMT 325?