Just curious. I know you can hone tools and knives but do they work well on razors?
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Just curious. I know you can hone tools and knives but do they work well on razors?
I know some use the coarser ones to work on "ebay-specials" and some will use a progression of them.
To me, they are way too scratchy and agressive.
Seemed to me like a possibility so I tried one on an ebay special. Since the DMT green is 1200 grit compared with 1000 grit for bevel setting Norton, I decided to give it a shot. On review at 45X under a microscope after a go at it I saw lots of scratches and a few microchips. Could have been my technique -- I have a lot to learn. But I wouldn't try a DMT on anything I valued.
I have found that the scratches left by a DMT seem to be either deeper or harsher than those left by other stones of "equal" grit ratings, so I prefer not to use them. The exception is if I'm doing "bevel restoration," which is removing large chips or substantial frowns or dealing with severely blunted razors. But I don't consider those things "honing."
Honing is one thing, finishing and having it shave ready is another. Yes you can repair with 600, and/or set bevel with 1.2K and progression with DMT 8k. So yes you can hone with DMTs, but from the 8K you will have to use something else to finish it off.
Dont forget that its very wise to break in a DMT, before and after breaking in is HUGEQuote:
Originally Posted by mumpig
They are indeed not so straight forward as waterstones, but they have their uses. The 325 is good for lapping and heavy metal lifting (chips, breadknifing, wedges with a lot of wear), the 1200 can be used as a bevel setter when properly broken in, just make sure you use a fast 4-5k stone after it, or put a 2-3k stone in between those two. They have an odd feeling while honin, the interrupted and the continuus one too, so peple tend to not like it who hone a lot, and hone snobs like me :) They are really fast however, so they can be used of course, just make sure you remove those deep scrathes after you use them.
At this point I use a DMT 1k and a DMT 8k, then polish the bevel with a nice grade CNAT. The edges off my Norton look nicer, but the DMT + CNAT edges shave just as well.
You can't chamfer the edges of a DMT, and for me that makes it a little unpleasant.
Michael
Diamond's are for ladies, knives, and stones...not for razors except for serious blade work/corrections.
I use a 600 DMT for all bevel restores and getting rid of damage, followed by a 1200 DMT followed by a 1k chosera - after this all the marks from the DMT are gone.
As for using the perforated ones - I wouldn't even consider it - they seem less than flat in the first place, and I can imagine they would chip/mar the edge.
I recently got a few Atoma diamond plates for lapping and tried honing a junker blade on one of them - it felt truly horrific due to the spread pattern of the diamond particles.
Regards,
Neil
The DMT I use for lapping is a 325 grit and based on the feel I think you're better off with a waterstone, or synthetic stone of 500 or 1000 grit. At least that's what I use.
Keep in mind that you probably only want to use grits that coarse if you're setting a bevel, or dealing with a chip on the edge of the blade.
Like everyone has already said, you can use them. If you do, it might help to use dish soap and water on the surface and go light with the pressure.
MIke
and cufflinks, dont forget cufflinks!Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743
damn - that's where I was going wrong....Quote:
Originally Posted by Magpie
We are supposed to be sharp dressed men, are we not? :chapeau
Lol, very true words :)Quote:
Originally Posted by shooter74743