You won't believe this. I just sold one of my hones to a nine yearold girl. First come, first served fellas.
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You won't believe this. I just sold one of my hones to a nine yearold girl. First come, first served fellas.
I drew a grid on my G20 with a pencil and then lapped it with a Naniwa lapping stone. It's pretty coarse and it still took a while! Thinking, do I need to lap it with something finer after the naniwa lapping stone? Could I use naniwa 1k which I already own?
I used really well worn dmt 325, and it took forever to lap with that- no surprise there.
I then follow with coticule bout to mirror the surface- just how I prefer.
Stone is easy to use, if you have to correct touch and the blade is truly ready for the 20k, every time you do ~30 laps and you are done. No pastes, sprays or any other hoo doo is needed before the strop.
I totally agree, Stefan.
However, the key is, as you say '...if you have the correct touch and the blade is truly ready...' without those two, its not a walk in the park.
I should imagine that applies to every finisher, no matter what it is, and if you have not got the right touch and the edge is not ready, then a better/more expensive hone is not going to make it so.
That is not to say that the 'feel' the GY20k imparts to the edge is wonderful - just that it won't be wonderful if the honer has 'issues'.
Regards,
Neil
The Atoma 1200 is the best lapping plate I've had, and I've had 'em all. I plan on getting the 600 to make the 1200 last longer. I tried the GDLP on the 20k and it was slow going, so I soon went to the 1200. Great lapping plate !
I used Atoma 400 & 1200 to lap mine. The 20k was bowed so after realising that I had started on the convex side I moved to the concave side. Then lapping went much quicker . It's easier to get flatness if if the lap starts contact at the 2 end points rather than rocking all over the middle.