Honing a wedge with no shoulders

I got a custom from a guy, not very expensive, but made from some nice d2 with a good heat treat.

The problem is, it has no shoulders, its prettly much a true wedge/flat grind.

Hes pretty amateur at making straights, he mostly does fixed blade knifes. (this is kind of a side project to use up some scrap)

I like the design over all, but I'm not sure how to approach honing it sense i cant rest the spine on the stone while honing the edge.

Should i just tape to the proper angle? (also what is the proper angle??)

Thanks

-Daekkon

I'm not sure if I get what you're describing, could you post some pictures?

i will when i get home, it was shipped to my work.

Maybe you could send a pm to Glenn or one of the other gurus.
Good luck with your razor.

Attachment 144269Attachment 144270Attachment 144271

Here a couple veiws of the spine from the front to show the grind on it, its kind of hard to see the edge its got right now, and reference the actually thickness of the blade.

Like i said its pretty much a true wedge.

(sorry about the low quality, lighting and camera on phone are not very good.)

hmmmmm

This is not what you have but the "Fix' might work even though it is for a different thing,, But there is just so much I do not know about that RSO you have in your hand :shrug:


http://straightrazorpalace.com/vendo...r-customs.html

The "Correct" angle is on average 16° -17° that is the target most Vintage makers shot for, but there is more to it than that simple number... What you have there is an unknown

Hmm very interesting.

Ill try it with some tape and see if i can get a shaving edge on it (current edge is ok. shaves the arm nice and clean, but doesn't seem quite like what a razor should feel like.)

at worst i got a fancy box opener made out of d2 lol

No concave at all, very small spine width to blade width, and the edge has a bevel already. I will say its gonna be a great box opener. Even if you can determine the correct width of the spine and tape a metal wedge to the spine on both sides to hone it, you will not be able to strop it properly.

That spine looks so thin it may never be able to be honed.

I think ill hone with tape, and try 1 strop session freehand, and see if it shaves. if not it'll probably just live its life as a box opener at my office.

Glen, I don't know anything, but could this be saved by making a "new spine" for it? like a frame back? if not it'll be a cool letter opener.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Trimmy72

Glen, I don't know anything, but could this be saved by making a "new spine" for it? like a frame back? if not it'll be a cool letter opener.

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Chris follow the link I put up :)

OP

There is a math formula using the spine width and blade size to determine the angle you will get on the bevel http://www.coticule.be/wedges.html .

Bob

Looks like the links over there don't load

Here is a Google friendly formula for bevel angle located here on SRP

(2 * asin(.181 / (2 * .620)) * 180) / pi = 16.786646

The .181 being Spine Thickness and .620 being Blade Height


Google friendly means that you put in your values and copy and paste to google search hit enter and BAM !!!! you have the answer

http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...-theories.html

That looks VERY thick just above the "bevel" and VERY thin at the "spine." I'd say that thing needs a final grinding and a conversion to a frameback if you want to make it into a "razor."

Ah............missed that post......nice.........
I'm trying to help my daughter with homework and surf, the web. Multi-tasking apparently isn't possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

Chris follow the link I put up :)

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Glen

If you scroll down there is an MS Excel document on the left side that you down load and plug your figures into and it does the calculations and gives you the angle.

Bob