Originally Posted by
Euclid440
Yes, stay on the 1K until the bevels come completely togeather and you have a sharp chip free edge along the entire edge.
It appears from the photos that the blade was sanded, it may have also been buffed and suffered from pitting. Pitting or over heating may cause future problems like crumbling. You will only find out by continuing to hone until you get to good steel.
You also have the beginning of a heel hook forming, I would reshape that with a small stone or the side of your 1K to round it out if not it will get worst and eventually cut you and or your strop. You will have to bevel set the heel once reshaped. There are good threads and video on doing this.
The toe was honed will too much pressure, you can see the wider hone wear on the spine tip. The toe can be honed by doing some circles with light pressure and lifting the heel just a bit. Some sharpie ink on the bevel will show you the right angle.
To hone the heel, some circles heel forward at about a 20-30 degree angle with a little pressure will bring the heel bevels togeather. Once the heel and toe are coming togeather then hone heel forward in an X pattern, that will cause a very slight pressure shift and hone the entire edge in one smooth stroke.
If the edge does not stop crumbling it may be damaged, removing more steel may solve the problem.
Bread knifing can be used to remove a chip, correct a frown and straighten an edge. It is honing with the blade edge at 90 degrees to the stone. In some cases sawing the stone like slicing a piece of bread from a loaf. There are also good threads and video on this too and there are also other variations on this technique.
A form of light bread knifing is jointing, lightly dragging the blade 90 degrees on the stone edge corner to straighten the edge when experiencing light chipping.
I also recommend tapeing the spine when learning to hone a problem razor to prevent excessive hone wear. You can also learn a lot about your technique by the wear pattern on the tape.