Getting Bevel to Meet

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No real need to post pics, but... why not. We all like pics right?
So this is a New England Razor Co. razor, my latest off ebay. Last pic is the ebay pic. A surprise since it's actually nicer than I anticipated. I bought it anticipating to replace the scales. Funny thing is as I'm working with it the oils from my hands are darkening up the walnut and it's actually looking pretty cool in a primitive way and I may just keep them. I'm from Connecticut and starting to collect New England razors and I liked the blade and etching.

I've just about got the bevel set except at the heel. And my question is more general than this particular razor. I hope I can explain this. On the one side the edge is straight and looks set inspecting through my loupe. On the other side as I go down, the edge is good until the heel and I get a "shine" at the edge where it's not set and the bevels are not meeting. Am I correct in my thinking that I have to hone down the "good side" bevel to meet the lower "bad/shiney" side bevel?

No. The 2 edges have to meet. You can't drag one kicking & screaming to meet the other especially if the other needs more honing.
Hone the side with the incomplete bevel more.

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

You can't drag one kicking & screaming to meet the other especially if the other needs more honing.

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Bahahaha :rofl2:

What Glen said in response to OZ. ROFLMAO

If I ever hear a bevel scream I quit shaving...........

Thes sound of one bevel screaming , evennnnn... Exit... Stage right . :D

Looks like it has a bit of smiley to it. Those need an x stroke I believe. I'm still very new to this too. :p

Yeah smiley , you can began with circles on the heel on the right side of the stone that goes into a X stroke diagonaly to the left and finish the stoke on the top of the blade . I think that will work

More of a windshield wiper stroke for a smiley, should you use a pure x stroke you will have a sharp center on the blade but the toe and heel will lack.

Thanks for your replies. I was using rolling X strokes for the smile, and was doing some circles on the heel. I just had to be a little more aggressive on the heel.

To the OP, have you tried some sweeping heel first strokes to keep the flat bevel?

To the rest, if a bevel screams in the forest does anyone hear it? MMMMWWWHHHAAAAAA

OZ that was a very old Snaggle Puss reference there.

Try heel forward strokes, almost 45 degrees and keep the heel on the stone at least to the halfway point. You may not have the heel on the stone long enough to do any good.

An extra piece of tape may help also.

What stone are you using to bevel set?

Starting w/ Jmercer, nun2sharp, It looks like a smiling blade that was honed like it was straight. 'Fat bevel in the middle, wide hone wear on the spine in the middle. Of the guys that *do* hone that send a blade to me, this seems the most common issue. 'Always sad to see when its a nice classic blade or costly new gucci blade. I tell the owners to sight down the spine. If there's curvature - the bevel needs to parallel this curve or it'll fight you & disappoint. The honorable 'Gunner told me to master the 'swooping' or 'half-moon' stroke - what Nun2sharp called the 'windshield wiper' stroke. 'Like most other counsel they give - it has proven very helpful.

For remediation - any combination of strokes that bring that heel & point area of the bevel into parallel w/ the spine will do. 'Circles, half-strokes - what Glen calls 'Japanese-style' strokes (forward & back on the same side) that concentrates on the parts that aren't parallel - will do the job. Usually, there's enough metal that needs to be moved so that a diamond plate (DMT325) will save you alot of aching fingers. From there, it has seemed to need the arc-ing style of stroke to re-establish a smooth, continuous edge and enable a normal stone to accomplish bevel setting duty.

Learning the arcing stroke can take some practice for those of us to whom its not natural. I think you'll find the effort is repaid well.

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

Try heel forward strokes, almost 45 degrees and keep the heel on the stone at least to the halfway point. You may not have the heel on the stone long enough to do any good.

An extra piece of tape may help also.

What stone are you using to bevel set?

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I finally got her done. Did a very slight heel reshape and circles and 45 degree angle strokes. I also used just a bit more pressure. I'm starting to think I don't use enough pressure. I read light pressure all the time and may be taking it to an extreme.

I use a Naniwa 1K, I think it's the newer pro version.

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Originally Posted by Crackers

To the OP, have you tried some sweeping heel first strokes to keep the flat bevel?

To the rest, if a bevel screams in the forest does anyone hear it? MMMMWWWHHHAAAAAA

OZ that was a very old Snaggle Puss reference there.

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For crying out loud. Of course, every tree within earshot is blessed.