Thirsty Corborundum!

Hey folks, I just got a Carborundum #115 from a fellow on eBay. I immediately laid it on the table and sprinkled some water on it so I could try honing one of my razors. To my surprise, the droplets soaked right in! (Have you folks seen this?) It was like watching water evaporate off a hot surface. I found that even if I splashed water on liberally, it might be gone before I finished a pass.

The box says to use a thin, clear oil -- perhaps that's what I should be using. I've got some non-detergent 10-weight oil in the garage. Would that work, or is there a fancy "hone oil" I should use? :shrug:

Thanks!
- Scott

just keep adding water

You'll find that you may need LOTS more than you think before the stone becomes saturated.

may be you could soak it, like a norton

Soak it....

Is there any reason that water is being recommended for use on something like an old oilstone? I can understand that on water stones one should use water, but on a stone such as novaculite or a manufactured silicone carbide or aluminum oxide stone, where the manufacturer suggests using a light oil, what advantage is there to using water? What disadvantage or counter indication is there to using oil?

In ignorance, Bruce

I have two arkansas stones dedicated to razors, and I only use water on them.

1) oil has too much suction and this limits how sharp you can get the razor (suction = pressure)

2) water is adequate for carrying off the swarf - you aren't removing lots of metal like you are for knifes.

3) using water makes it easier to use them for quick touch-ups at the sink.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sstulken80

Hey folks, I just got a Carborundum #115 from a fellow on eBay. I immediately laid it on the table and sprinkled some water on it so I could try honing one of my razors. To my surprise, the droplets soaked right in! (Have you folks seen this?) It was like watching water evaporate off a hot surface. I found that even if I splashed water on liberally, it might be gone before I finished a pass.

The box says to use a thin, clear oil -- perhaps that's what I should be using. I've got some non-detergent 10-weight oil in the garage. Would that work, or is there a fancy "hone oil" I should use? :shrug:

Thanks!
- Scott

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I would go with a watery lather before going to oil.

mparker,

Thanks for the insights. What size Arkansas stones do you use for razor sharpening and what grade/color are they?

Bruce

Wacky... the only reason I haven't soaked it is that there is an original sticker stuck to the side. Oh well, I'll glue it to the box or something.

Thanks folks!
- Scott

Some of the carbide type hones I've used just keep letting the water soak in/through like there is no tomorrow. They do work with water but you have to keep wetting them almost constantly (or use them almost dry with work knives). Maybe youll have to go with oil or maybe lather would work if the stone is fine enough?

Not to sound gross or anything, but have you tried using saliva?

I took the plunge, and 5 min of soaking seems to help. I'm removing a little metal now, but not passing any sharpness tests yet...

I use a carborundium hone for my tools that need a course stone, I use car antifreeze on this hone. This way I get the fast cutting but no rust debris left in the hone when stored. Another benifit is it doesn't evaporate quickly unlike water etc, oh, it's cleaner too.

PuFF

Scott,
I have cans of Norton Oil for $4 and that's what is recommended for oil stones. Loading is a major problem with oil stones and the oil used makes a big difference. The soaking in problem is worst with the orange India stones. I recently bought a beauty of a conical slip stone that someone had written on with felt tip magic marker type pen. Usually it's no problem to get that off with Goof Off. Not this time! The Goof Off soaked in so quickly it didn't have time to react with the marker writing. I ultimately had to take down the surface (the flat end was where the writing was) on a DMT diamond extra coarse stone in order to get it off.

People have, in the past, put down Norton Oil as just being kerosene but that is just plain incorrect. The Norton Oil is a highly refined mineral oil that is also food grade meaning you can use it on kitchen cutlery with no fears of contamination. (It doesn't mean you can drink the oil...). I use oil stones and Norton oil for certain types of honing but not for razors.