Thread: Hone of the Day

More hones less chit chat please.

Revisor 6/8ths Sharpen the edge.
Pink coticule.

Today, I used an edge I used the "uni-cot" method on. It was sharp, but uncomfortable.

I decided to go back down and try to hone it back up again. Problem is I lack a slurry stone other then a BBW, so I've been trying to figure out a way around this. More pressure... works ok.. throw a barber hone in there to eek some keenness out of the blade before final finishing... works ok.. not impressed but no chips/wire edge either (interesting). I'm seriously considering cutting an inch off my coticule as I'm getting driven crazy without a slurry stone. BBW slurry just isn't doing it for me. My hone of the day way a few hours of tinkering.. ending with a bbw on misty slurry, getting ready for the final coticule with water finish.. I don't have a picture sorry, besides my pictures suck..

Don't do it!

Given your multi hone situation, I'm going to assume you have a DMT 325 or some such for flattening, why not use that to raise the slurry? If you DON'T have one, a small diamond card/paddle would do the job and be quite inexpensive compared to the loss of an inch off your Coti. You could even swipe the Mrs's diamond nail file..... oops... did I say that out loud?!?!?!

I just checked and Howard is selling small cotigura stones for a measly $10....

Just some thoughts.....


Christian

Slightly damaged Korrat, was the interesting one for today

Spine was the just plain weird, in the pics in looks like Spine wear but in hand it looks more like that was the way it was ground



The point needed to be fixed on the 2x72 as it had a pretty heavy faucet kiss



After grinding but before honing here



I found that the heel was never actually set correctly, so I had to also bring that back into line, you can see here under magnification that the bevel is shy of the edge



Chosera 1k to do all the bevel setting using a Japanese Swooping X stroke after a few Circles to get it all even again then the 5k-10k to get her sharp as all get out.. Used the Nakayama with DMT slurry all the way through to damp to get a sweet haze finish on her

What 2x72 do you run sixgun? Just curious. More pics guys.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

I don't do it but the nike swish is a long curve with a little flick the other way at the end, right? So I'd guess that's what the stroke would be like.

Not sure why you'd flick at the end of the stroke to be honest, unless it's to hit the toe but I do that with a rolling stroke.

Anyway, each to their own and if it works it works. As they say, just do it.....

James.

Just follow through, like a golf swing. No? And feels nice.

Decided to give coticules another chance. I've never been happy with the shaves they give, both from my attempts and from pro honers. This one came from France, found in a barbers estate who was in work starting back to the 50's. It's locked into the wood, so I'm debating getting it out. Also it's quite curved, so I'm debating flattening it out. I've heard it's not necessary to be flat, any suggestions glen?

“Is the 'odd stria' a cosmetic issue (or preference based on looks) or an edge issue? Or is this even a reasonable question?”

Yes, “Odd Stria” or diagonal stria reaching the edge will leave a larger chip and weaker edge. Cut a loaf of bread at 90 degrees and again on a 45 degree bias. The piece can be almost 50 percent larger.

Circles will remove metal quickly because of cross grain grinding. It is a good way to set a bevel after correction or to remove heavy 1k stria when moving up in grits. 20-40 circles on a 3 or 4k will help removing deep 1k stria quickly then remove the circular or diagonal stria with even straight or X strokes to get a straighter edge.

The edge will not get very straight until after the 8k, so just make sure you are honing to the edge, the heavy stria is removed and is even and uniform. Removing the edge with a jointing stroke and resetting on the next stone will make a straighter, stronger edge.

It is not just that it is concave, it looks like very uneven wear, and was use more on one side than the other, so only about half of the stone,(center section), is usable. The center is concaved and the ends are flat. So you will either just use the same center section and exacerbate wear or risk a wonky bevel when it rides over the transition.

It is probably just locked in with swarf, holding in your hand and tapping down, on the end of the wood with a small hammer, will loosen it up and not damage the stone, the bottom side is often pretty flat and can be lightly lapped.

If you do flatten it, do so on a clean cookie sheet with a diamond plate, let the slurry dry and save the dust. You will lose a lot of stone thickness and it will need to be supported in a wood block.