Thread: Hone of the Day

Had honed this one prior on a Thuri and remembered it was hard good steel. I took it to the Nakayama and was glad I did took a very nice smooth edge. I knew it could take it!

Chas. R. Coates “Chesapeake “ razor.
Dan’s Translucent Arkansas.
SG synthetic 1K/3K slurry stone.

This razor is in pristine NOS condition.
But it barely cut arm hair at skin level.

This for me means using the un burnished side of the Arkie
With the slurry to set the bevel then on to the burnished side.
For a bunch of laps at first dry, then with plain water.
Test shave was pleasant two pass DFS.

Do not know who Charles Coates contracted with to manufacture his razors. They are most likely of Solingen Origen. Early 1900’s. If I am wrong I look forward to being enlightened.
But the two I have are both right nice pieces of kit.
Ken.

Restored this J.Allen & Sons .

Honed on the Nakayama .. It looks good and great HHT but ill have to wait for some hair growth to find out..

I had honed this razor on my Naniwas the other day, it was super keen but a little harsh coming off the 12k. Today I did just a few laps on this coticule to see if it would make it more comfortable. It worked! But it's still missing something. I will try a thuringian next.

Originally Posted by Maryland998

Chas. R. Coates “Chesapeake “ razor.
Dan’s Translucent Arkansas.
SG synthetic 1K/3K slurry stone.

This razor is in pristine NOS condition.
But it barely cut arm hair at skin level.

This for me means using the un burnished side of the Arkie
With the slurry to set the bevel then on to the burnished side.
For a bunch of laps at first dry, then with plain water.
Test shave was pleasant two pass DFS.

Do not know who Charles Coates contracted with to manufacture his razors. They are most likely of Solingen Origen. Early 1900’s. If I am wrong I look forward to being enlightened.
But the two I have are both right nice pieces of kit.
Ken.

So just to clarify, you're setting the bevel on the "rough" side of that trans ark with a slurry progression (presumably to water only?), then flipping to finish on the burnished side. Hmm, I've got to try this, as I have a TA, as well as a Chosera 1k and a Norton 4k that would fill the slurrying bill for the bevel-setting and refining before flipping over. I wonder what finishing on Norton 8k slurry on the rough side before flipping over would add to the mix? This really intrigues me, and I've got two new rescales in the honing cup. I envision great edges from this system; I always like trying new honing tricks-thanks for the idea!

That is the "system" if have come up with. Takes much less time than without the slurry.
And the results are to my face identical.
The slurry stone I'm using is the "cleaning" stone that came with my Gokumyo 20K.
It works well with that stone. And with the Arkie.
Sharing is caring. That is why we are here.
Ken

FINALLY!
I get some time.
So I'm honing like a Mad Dog.
And having a cold one.
Been a while for both so I just wanted too.

Just ran this new to me Novelty Cutlery Co. blade across this dual sided Wester Brothers DE-FI barber hone. It didn't need much to get it shaving again and this hone did the job. By far the best barber hone I've used so far.

Got 2 weeks of growth. Hoping I finally nailed this edge but not confident on the heel

Originally Posted by Gasman

FINALLY!
I get some time.
So I'm honing like a Mad Dog.
And having a cold one.
Been a while for both so I just wanted too.

So when in doubt, just get 'am all out, right Jerry? Kind of what I do. Throw a huge towel over one end of a table, put my honing pond in the middle and surrounded by stones and accessories. Of course that green brick is the most important one; everything else is just smoothing out a well-executed bevel. Looks like a great session.