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I bought these 3 stones today at a flee market for $5 and thought I got a score until I started lapping them. The middle and left stone are Translucent Arkansas stones the other I believe is a Washita. The larger Translucent needs some serious lapping borderline re cutting. Anyone know a good method of lapping one of these in a reasonable time.Attachment 217323Attachment 217324
Do a search there are a few good threads. Sic powder on a silicone baking sheet seems to be the most effective for bulk removal to flat then you need to work up through the wet and dry grits and then burnish the stone to get a good finishing stone. It's the surface refinement that allows for a fine cut as the grit is actually higher so spend the time to get it right. It won't be a quick job. Good luck
Silicon carbide (various grits) on thick glass, lots of water and some elbow grease will do the trick. Add as much beer as you can to prevent dehydration and avoid fatigue, will take some time.
I lapped one on my concrete sidewalk and finished with wet/dry sandpaper on glass. I really don't want to do that again..
i have lapped a stone on a surface grinder in a machine shop. worked fast and well but not everyone has access to one.
I did my surgical black with a palm sander and a lot of wet dry paper. Then finished by hand
Yup, Silicone Oxide loose grit from GotGrit.com. 60 grit will get you to flat on a steel cookie sheet, (Dollar Store) and flat cement floor. The sheet will contain the mess and it is messy and the steel sheet will give you a reasonably flat surface on a hard floor. A 60-500 grit assortment will cost you about $15, then switch to Wet & Dry to finish.
Start with a tablespoon of grit and enough water to make a paste, mark a grid with a sharpie, pencil will just wash off and use your body weight, add more grit a tablespoon at a time and remark your stone as needed.
You may want to wash you stones first, with oven cleaner and soak with Simple Green and water, heat will speed up,(Thrift Store slow-cooker), the process, but may still take some time, weeks or months to completely remove the oil.
Once flat you can move up grits fairly quickly, finishing on 1&2k Wet & Dry.
You will get a work out, but it is not that bad, Wet & Dry or a diamond plate will not make a dent, and you will burn through W&D and can ruin a diamond plate.
Once flat and polished & burnished it will provide a very nice keen edge after a good clean 12k edge, it is a unique edge and worth the price of admission.
Sandpaper if it comes to it. Just don't make the STUPID mistake I did & work it w/ your DMT. Sigh.
The small slip, once cleaned up makes a nice touch up stone for the bath room or finish stone for synthetics and will remove swarf without imparting grit. I keep a small translucent slip near my hones and clean synthetics, as soon as they start to load up.
It is the one thing I don’t like about Super Stones. A few quick laps saves a trip to the sink and a diamond plate, probably saving some stone wear too.
I have one old translucent soaking for close to a year, change the water once a week or so, it just keeps releasing oil. I use a glass apothecary canister with a wire clasp and rubber seal from the thrift store to keep the solution from evaporating and so you can see when the liquid needs changing.
I've always wondered about using the loose grit, how can you be sure that it is uniform under the stone ? Any potential for problems with an uneven surface after lapping ? BTW, that dollar store cookie sheet is a great tip.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
I think all lapping to some degree involves some loose grit. Take a dmt and start lapping a norton for example. The dmt removes grit from the stone and then it starts working itself around the stone, yes you wash some of it off but for the most part there is always a layer of it between the plate and the stone being lapped. I believe this helps smooth things out. Good question though I have wondered about these things myself.
FWW
The loosened grit is the problem with a DMT as the swarf can and does eat away the Nickle Metal Plating that is used to hold the diamonds to the steel plate. The diamonds do not waer but..there is little plating left to hold them.
~Richard
To minimize that, if not to eliminate it, I always lap under running water in the kitchen sink. The DMTs might be more prone to that. You can feel the stiction. The Shapton GDLP is grooved to avoid the buildup, and the Atoma is constructed so that somehow the stiction doesn't happen, at least not under the running tap when I do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Razorfaust
I agree, DMT dont have the channels to clear the grit even under running water. Real lapping plates have this feature and are faster and more efficient. My problem is those plates are crazy expensive compared to the latter. I guess im still looking for a reasonable solution for this but still making due with DMTs for now. Anyone have a nice reasonably priced system I would be game.
Try the Chef Knives to go 400/1000 combo diamond plate $35 with diamond pattern in the diamond pattern and for heavy use the 140 grit CKTG.
I have also been abusing my 140 for well over 2-3 years and still going strong. It has lapped a LOT of naturals. I do abuse my diamond plates, then again I have a very old DMT that is still ticking.
The 400/1k is nice plate 400 to lap, 1k to refresh a synthetic. They look and perform like an IWood plate I have been beating on for years.
yeah those are chinese diamond plates - they sold them on Ebay for 25 bucs FRee shiping . They are the same
for the arkansas stones get a piece of glass and SIC powder 80 grit as a start and 320 for finishing on glass piece
the hole thing is 1 hour hard labour
Luckily I live in an area full of rock hounds and stone cutters, so there are lapping machines close by that I can use, why not, ya know?
Meant to say, maybe get to know someone in your area who does Lapidary.
Not for lapping an ark, as alternative to DMT stiction. No diamond plate will lap an ark…
