New Ebay Find, Start to Finish

Hey, all!

I recently picked up a Henckel off Ebay, dirt cheap. It looked to be in good condition. The blade was dull and blunt, (I thought it was purposely dulled to use as a movie or theater prop) but overall shape was looked good, so I was excited because I've been looking for something slightly narrower than 5/8 for shaving around my mouth/mustache area.


Following is some pics showing my approach. I decided to use a regimen based on the info found on Todds blog on science of sharp https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/, just to try something new, and plus I was half cut and forced to go home early from New Years celebration because my girlfriend was tired.

Happy New Years!

Progress was: DMT Dia-flat 95 lapping plate "140 grit" (back and forth strokes until goal reached), Chosera 400 (edge leading strokes until decent metal swarf build-up, then 20 edge trailing strokes. Method repeated for all stones), Chosera 800, Naniwa green brick, Chosera 5000, Naniwa Snow White 8000, Naniwa 12000 Super Stone, 20 pairs of strokes on pasted denim hanging strop (CrOx), rinse, 50 pairs of strokes on clean leather. I plan to add 20 strokes on pasted leather with .25 diamond next time before clean leather and after CrOx. It's all overkill, but I love using my stones. Based on Science of Sharp, I could have gone from 800 to 12000, but that's not fun.

First I had to buff out the blade to get rid of weird scratches etc. I have a system I do by hand using sandpaper then various Enkay polish crayons on strips of leather. Good enough for me. One day I'll get a Dremmel.

Weird scratches
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Matt finish after sandpaper
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Almost mirror after leather w/polish rubbing (black>green>blue)
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Uh-oh, after testing flatness of exiting bevel on a flat surface, a curve on the spine is discovered.
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No problem. I find the center of the high point on the spine by rocking it, and inspecting closely on flat surface. I'm going to use my DMT Dia-flat 95 lapping plate lapping plate to rapidly remove metal from the spine while putting downward pressure on the spine while attempting to hold it at the intended angle of which I'd like to bevel to be set at without microchipping the edge too much during the process. This is the most challenging part of the process, but it's pretty easy once you practice it 2-3 times on extreme poorly honed razors.
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Result:
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Please, no neck-beards talking about spine wear. This is intended!

Some steps during progression. Skipped pictures of Chosera 400 and Naniwa 8000 because I forgot.
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CrOx on pasted strop, then clean leather.
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Result was the most tree-toppingist blade I've ever honed.

Note: I am not a professional.

If it works for you then your method is great! I actually just used a an x-course DMT this evening to level a spine on an eBay find and got some simlar wear on blade. For your next project, check for level and fix issues BEFORE you go to the trouble of polishing the blade! The sanding and polishing will even out the wear and make it less noticeable. I would post pictures of my latest project, but I forgot to take before pictures...

Is that a Naniwa Green Brick I see in picture #10?

J.A. Henckels are probably the best German made razor out there, at least it is of the blades I've tried. Got two nice ones and won't part with them.....great shavers!

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Originally Posted by Ernie1980

If it works for you then your method is great! I actually just used a an x-course DMT this evening to level a spine on an eBay find and got some simlar wear on blade. For your next project, check for level and fix issues BEFORE you go to the trouble of polishing the blade! The sanding and polishing will even out the wear and make it less noticeable. I would post pictures of my latest project, but I forgot to take before pictures...

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Good point!

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Originally Posted by DoughBoy68

Is that a Naniwa Green Brick I see in picture #10?

J.A. Henckels are probably the best German made razor out there, at least it is of the blades I've tried. Got two nice ones and won't part with them.....great shavers!

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It is indeed. My experience is that it takes me quite easily from below 1000 grit to the 3-4000 range, based on the feel/metal removal on the 5000 afterwards.

Nice... love the Henckels

GREAT JOB!

Correcting the spine is an evil part of "fixing" a straight razor to make it hone properly. We all forget that a straight razor is a tool. We'd like to keep it all "pretty", but sometimes functionality over looks is needed more. Some razors need spine correction more than other. I guess you're lucky if the spine and edge are perfectly in sync with each other, but not always the case.

Thanks for posting this. Gives me some great pointers!

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Originally Posted by Fruiteater

It is indeed. My experience is that it takes me quite easily from below 1000 grit to the 3-4000 range, based on the feel/metal removal on the 5000 afterwards.

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That is what I noticed too. I have found that I can use fewer hones by incorporating the Green Brick in the progression. I have had real good luck on some blades going from the Chosera 1K to the Green Brick then finish on the Coticule and maybe having to use the Chinese 12K on some blades.

Besides, the price of such a huge rock makes it a real bargain.

Why not just use a rolling x stroke and hone around the spine "issue"?

Interesting thread. I have a couple of eBay razors that I haven't figured out out to hone because of spine issues.

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Originally Posted by jfk742

Why not just use a rolling x stroke and hone around the spine "issue"?

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Rolling X stroke could work, but usually people use it more so for razors with a pronounced smiling blade. :shrug:

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Originally Posted by daverojo77

Interesting thread. I have a couple of eBay razors that I haven't figured out out to hone because of spine issues.

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Doing spine "restoration" seems kind of tricky. If it is an expensive razors and you're not used to doing this type of "restoration", I would send it to a pro. If you don't have a lot of cash into the razor and/or feeling like doing it.....Go for it. You never learn to do things unless you try. We all have to start somewhere. I've had my share of messing up a blade while honing or doing some sort of work on it to make it "better". I think everyone has a time or 2.



(Now yall don't go and beat me up for what I said)

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Originally Posted by Willisf

GREAT JOB!

Correcting the spine is an evil part of "fixing" a straight razor to make it hone properly. We all forget that a straight razor is a tool. We'd like to keep it all "pretty", but sometimes functionality over looks is needed more. Some razors need spine correction more than other. I guess you're lucky if the spine and edge are perfectly in sync with each other, but not always the case.

Thanks for posting this. Gives me some great pointers!

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Then again, this razor would be honeable with a rolling X stroke. There is no reason to grind it flat. Especially since it won't shave better, and now you also have a big flat piece of hone wear on the spine.

See.....Even on posts I am learning..... Thanks Bruno.

I killed a John Barber razor when I first started honing, trying to get it flat. Make the rolling x-stroke your friend, it will help with LOTS of razors. And also help with resale if you ever decide to sell a razor it won't have terrible looking hone wear

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Originally Posted by Bruno

Then again, this razor would be honeable with a rolling X stroke. There is no reason to grind it flat. Especially since it won't shave better, and now you also have a big flat piece of hone wear on the spine.

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Originally Posted by rodb

I killed a John Barber razor when I first started honing, trying to get it flat. Make the rolling x-stroke your friend, it will help with LOTS of razors. And also help with resale if you ever decide to sell a razor it won't have terrible looking hone wear

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Sounds familiar. I likewise 'killed' a Packwood the same way. A rolling x-stroke makes all the difference.

This video just helped me tremendously! I'm honing as i type this

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Originally Posted by Fruiteater

I didn't know about the rolling x-stroke until you just mentioned it (jfk742). This would be a good work-around if you didn't want a flat bevel. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

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Let us know how it shaves!

Handled well and properly without shortcuts as some people do just to preserve look but compromising the edge.

Which part of the progression was the standard vodka involved in? :)

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Originally Posted by rodb

I killed a John Barber razor when I first started honing, trying to get it flat. Make the rolling x-stroke your friend, it will help with LOTS of razors. And also help with resale if you ever decide to sell a razor it won't have terrible looking hone wear

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I once saw pics of a custom razor I had made, after the owner tried to hone it. It was a smiling razor, with correct spine geometry: curved spine, which means that when the blade is on the hone, the spine is not 'flat'. The owner then kept honing in order to make it flat...
So sad...

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Originally Posted by Frameback

Handled well and properly without shortcuts as some people do just to preserve look but compromising the edge.

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A rolling X stroke does not in any way compromise the edge.
There is zero benefit to grinding a razor flat, since even a bit of smile in the blade will also have a bit of smile in the spine, which means the spine will not be flat on the hone.

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Originally Posted by Frameback

Handled well and properly without shortcuts as some people do just to preserve look but compromising the edge.

Which part of the progression was the standard vodka involved in? :)

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The brainstorming phase. :idea:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Frameback

Handled well and properly without shortcuts as some people do just to preserve look but compromising the edge.

Which part of the progression was the standard vodka involved in? :)

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Fully agree. I like to lay flat all my razors on the hones as a starting point. This takes out variables, which in my experience so far, leads to more repeatable results and the most comfortable shaves achievable.

I'm still mad at myself for trying to hone that JB before I knew how to handle a smiling blade like that.

Another reason not to flatten the spine is that now there is a wide bevel in the center of the blade and it will probably develop a frown or not hold an edge as well there as the steel is to thin in that area, this would be especially true on an extra hollow. As Bruno said some blades have a spine that is not flat due to the blade style

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

I once saw pics of a custom razor I had made, after the owner tried to hone it. It was a smiling razor, with correct spine geometry: curved spine, which means that when the blade is on the hone, the spine is not 'flat'. The owner then kept honing in order to make it flat...
So sad...

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Except many or most vintage razors were smiling to begin with. Grinding them flat is destroying the razor for the sake of not having to learn to hone properly. That is just reinforcement of ineptitude.

Vintage sheffield for example was virtually always smiling. Ive never seen a really straight john barber, joseph rodgers or wade and butcher.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

I once saw pics of a custom razor I had made, after the owner tried to hone it. It was a smiling razor, with correct spine geometry: curved spine, which means that when the blade is on the hone, the spine is not 'flat'. The owner then kept honing in order to make it flat...
So sad...

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Wheres the "not like" button.....:banghead:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

Vintage sheffield for example was virtually always smiling. Ive never seen a really straight john barber, joseph rodgers or wade and butcher.

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I guess this explains why I have MUCH more success with a rolling X style stroke than attempting to hone with straight strokes, even on blades that appear for all intents and purposes to be straight.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

I once saw pics of a custom razor I had made, after the owner tried to hone it. It was a smiling razor, with correct spine geometry: curved spine, which means that when the blade is on the hone, the spine is not 'flat'. The owner then kept honing in order to make it flat...
So sad...

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nightmares are made of that narrative material. Jeez

What some may not realize, is that it may not JUST be the spine that is out of whack.

If there is a bend to the entire razor, flattening out the spine will just leave the bevel to wear itself down next. It will take a tremendous amount of honing to bring the whole thing into line, and can drastically shrink the width.

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Originally Posted by Magpie

What some may not realize, is that it may not JUST be the spine that is out of whack.

If there is a bend to the entire razor, flattening out the spine will just leave the bevel to wear itself down next. It will take a tremendous amount of honing to bring the whole thing into line, and can drastically shrink the width.

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The spine was curved, but the blade was straight. In the short term, 3-4 years of hones will be ok, but after that, it will get frowned based on the initial edge wear I can already see and unavoidable bevel geometry. At this point, this factory defect razor will be garbage.

In some cases, if one feels it is worthwhile, and as seen in many threads in this forum, utilizing a "rolling x-stroke" honing technique will prologue the life of warped razors, but add increased difficulty to the honing process.

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Originally Posted by Fruiteater

The spine was curved, but the blade was straight. In the short term, 3-4 years of hones will be ok, but after that, it will get frowned based on the initial edge wear I can already see and unavoidable bevel geometry. At this point, this factory defect razor will be garbage.

In some cases, if one feels it is worthwhile, and as seen in many threads in this forum, utilizing a "rolling x-stroke" honing technique will prologue the life of warped razors, but add increased difficulty to the honing process.

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Actually, when you know what you are doing there is nothing about honing that "adds increased difficulty to the honing process". I think it's great that you are learning & also great that it shaves well...I just hate it that you received some bad advice on how to hone a razor with a few issues & your razor paid the price for it.

Next time you obtain a razor that has "issues", start a thread with pics in the advanced honing techniques & listen to the guys who have been around for a few years and have hundreds of razors honed under their belt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fruiteater

The spine was curved, but the blade was straight. In the short term, 3-4 years of hones will be ok, but after that, it will get frowned based on the initial edge wear I can already see and unavoidable bevel geometry. At this point, this factory defect razor will be garbage.

In some cases, if one feels it is worthwhile, and as seen in many threads in this forum, utilizing a "rolling x-stroke" honing technique will prologue the life of warped razors, but add increased difficulty to the honing process.

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Frowns are caused by improper honing. Blades without warps are rare, at least in my collection of 70+.

None of us are trying to jump on you, just that there may be a better way in the future.