When to come off the Suehiro 20k

Hi guys,

Just wondering when I should come off the 20k. I am having trouble getting a feel for the stone as I can't use the water cresting over the edge due to the water sort of bubbling on top instead of pooling. I do notice that the blade really starts to "grab" this stone as I hone on it. If I continue past this the water starts to try to wash over the blade (I guess sort of ) But like a JNAT which this stone is supposedly modeled after, should I stop when it starts to grab? Thank you!


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That grabing is sometimes called stiction. Basically the bevel is about as smooth as it can get for those conditions. It doesn't necessarily tell you about the edge, but it is a sign that a cutting testhttp://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...ests_explained is in order.
On a natural conditions like slurry can be altered to go for a finner edge.

Jonathan

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When i first got my 20K i was told not to over hone. making too many laps. I agree with Datsots when it starts to stick i would try it.

As a general ballpark, you very rarely should need to do more than 20 strokes. Going beyond that can lead to degradation of the edge.

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Originally Posted by rhensley

When i first got my 20K i was told not to over hone. making too many laps. I agree with Datsots when it starts to stick i would try it.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Datsots

That grabing is sometimes called stiction. Basically the bevel is about as smooth as it can get for those conditions. It doesn't necessarily tell you about the edge, but it is a sign that a cutting testhttp://straightrazorpalace.com/srpwi...ests_explained is in order.
On a natural conditions like slurry can be altered to go for a finner edge.

Jonathan

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk

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I guess I was wondering what you all look for as well.

I finish on grosular garnet so not exactly comparable, so this is a bit general.
Once I think the edge may be ready I test with a hanging hair test. However that test is only useful once you have calibrated it aginst your available hair with a shave ready razor. A magnified light reflection test can be very useful while honing.
However the definitive test will always be the shave test.
Test offten untill you are familiar with honing. You will get faster with familiarity. It still takes me 45 min to hone including a bevel reset.

Jonathan

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As most things with razor honing, it depends…

On the razor, bevel angle, steel quality and how and what the razor has been honed on. Basically how much pressure was used, how aggressive the progression of stones and how fine the finish of each stone was, on the bevels and edge.

So, as a result there is no, “X lap formula”.

What I have found with stones of this degree of aggressiveness and fineness of grit, fine aggressive pastes and films, few razors can handle this stone taken to the max.

So, don’t take it to the max, find the max, then back off a few laps.

Hone the razor 10 laps at a time, until you see micro chipping, at 100X. Then joint the razor on the corner of the stone, and re-set the bevel, (10-20) laps, look at the edge with magnification and don’t take it, to where it is chipping again. Then you will know what that razor can handle, with your technique and stones.

Once the bevels are flat and in the proper plane angle, lightly jointing by drawing the edge on the corner of the stone will straighten the edge, removing the chipping/weak steel and the bevels can be brought back to meeting with just a few laps.

And that, is the difference between high grit, super uniform, aggressive grits and random particle, high polishing naturals. The uniform, aggressivness is very unforgiving.

There is a fine line of failure, pass that line, it fails. You have to find that line with your equipment and technique if you want to max out your edge with a stone, and you don’t have to max out every edge with a stone. Get close and fine tune with paste or just plain “old school” leather…Stropping still cannot be overlooked or over-rated.

None of us have exactly the same equipment, razor and technique.

Good info

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